If you had a $1000 Budget??????
What do you recommend?
Tirerack has a plethora of reviews from all kinds of tires. Summer tires and all seasons are the ones for your daily drivers. All seasons have a longer life span.
My bro used Pirelli PZero Nero M+S on his supercharged tC and currently running Kumho ASX's on my boosted RSX. Both are catagorized as "Ultra High Performance All season tires". The Pirelli's have a tad bit lower life, but GREAT handling and traction in all conditions, but are pretty pricey.
The current ASX's i'm running have been lasting for so LONG. at least 30k+miles, way more than my stock tires did. Traction is great in all road conditions, especially wet. I've ran these tires at the track over 20+ times with hardly any traction trouble.
Tirerack.com has a lot of tools you can use to pick which tires are best for you and user reviews to help you decide as well
My bro used Pirelli PZero Nero M+S on his supercharged tC and currently running Kumho ASX's on my boosted RSX. Both are catagorized as "Ultra High Performance All season tires". The Pirelli's have a tad bit lower life, but GREAT handling and traction in all conditions, but are pretty pricey.
The current ASX's i'm running have been lasting for so LONG. at least 30k+miles, way more than my stock tires did. Traction is great in all road conditions, especially wet. I've ran these tires at the track over 20+ times with hardly any traction trouble.
Tirerack.com has a lot of tools you can use to pick which tires are best for you and user reviews to help you decide as well
so you dont consider tires as part of performance upgrading? 
after that, i'd probably get a CAI. its the most streetable mod. Does your wife care for noise? if she's nitpicky about that, then you'd have to rreally consider the header and exhaust part. there are some quiet setups out there.

after that, i'd probably get a CAI. its the most streetable mod. Does your wife care for noise? if she's nitpicky about that, then you'd have to rreally consider the header and exhaust part. there are some quiet setups out there.
Last edited by 03DSM-RSX; Mar 26, 2007 at 12:09 AM.
Steelblade,
Don't take my comments and the other comments that agree with me as negative - as some suggest. I'm being realistic, and I'm sure the others are as well. I'm not trying to put you down or burst your bubble, I'm just telling you how it is. If you want significant, noticeable power gains you'll have to look past the generic cookie-cutter Intake/Header/Exhaust modification, because the I/H/E is actually a complimentary modification to what should be done to the engine internally first.
Now, if you're still gung-ho about this idea, please do me a favour. More importantly, do yourself a favour. Before modifying your car, take the car to a shop that has a dyno. Have its stock power checked. It will probably be between 90-95 hp at the wheels. Have them save your profile. Go nuts on your I/H/E swap (don't change anything else). Then, come back to the dyno shop and check your car's power. Superimpose the results with your stock results and see where you've gained/lost power.
Don't forget to post your results here on the forums. I'm more than willing to discuss your situation, especially when I'm proven wrong. And, it should provide FitFreak with a good base information when other people down the road are looking to do the same thing.

PS: It is important to note not to be hung up with peak hp or peak torque numbers. The important thing you need to worry about is did you gain hp/torque in the powerband range where you want it the most, and how much.
Don't take my comments and the other comments that agree with me as negative - as some suggest. I'm being realistic, and I'm sure the others are as well. I'm not trying to put you down or burst your bubble, I'm just telling you how it is. If you want significant, noticeable power gains you'll have to look past the generic cookie-cutter Intake/Header/Exhaust modification, because the I/H/E is actually a complimentary modification to what should be done to the engine internally first.
Now, if you're still gung-ho about this idea, please do me a favour. More importantly, do yourself a favour. Before modifying your car, take the car to a shop that has a dyno. Have its stock power checked. It will probably be between 90-95 hp at the wheels. Have them save your profile. Go nuts on your I/H/E swap (don't change anything else). Then, come back to the dyno shop and check your car's power. Superimpose the results with your stock results and see where you've gained/lost power.
Don't forget to post your results here on the forums. I'm more than willing to discuss your situation, especially when I'm proven wrong. And, it should provide FitFreak with a good base information when other people down the road are looking to do the same thing.

PS: It is important to note not to be hung up with peak hp or peak torque numbers. The important thing you need to worry about is did you gain hp/torque in the powerband range where you want it the most, and how much.
^^^^ What he said! I think too many people take it as bashing. If I didn't own a Fit, I would say "Sure, maybe that is bashing." But I do own a Fit and have owned cars with 4 times the power as well and turbo's the size of the Fit's engine. It is not going to be anywhere near mind-blowing power with the intake, ex, and header upgrade. It will add some go but you won't get wood from the power.
All I am saying and I am sure others are saying is if you want go-fast power, motor swap and forced induction. That's it.
Good luck.
kris
All I am saying and I am sure others are saying is if you want go-fast power, motor swap and forced induction. That's it.
Good luck.
kris
i agree!! i did so much research on which part i should mod first. at the end i mod the intake. i got the T1R intake, its sweet. theres noticeable difference starting from 3k rpm. when it is near 5k, it just screaming. lol..
like what ben said. T1R intake + T1R 50S Muffler gain 10Hp. i believe if included the b-pipe and header, then is around 20hp.
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/aj-r...-dyno-2-a.html
the T1R 50S Sport Exhaust System is $600 and T1R B-Max Carbon Intake is $350... total $1000... gain around 13-15 hp.
like what ben said. T1R intake + T1R 50S Muffler gain 10Hp. i believe if included the b-pipe and header, then is around 20hp.
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/aj-r...-dyno-2-a.html
the T1R 50S Sport Exhaust System is $600 and T1R B-Max Carbon Intake is $350... total $1000... gain around 13-15 hp.
since i just ordered Work Emotion CR Kai 16x7 bronze w/ 205-45-16 Kumho SPT. so broke, cant do my next mod until 2-3 months later. since i got T1R intake, my next plan is to get Fujitsubo Wagolis muffler (sinec i dont like loud exhaust) . then after get spoon B-pipe. hope the b-pipe wont be that loud. then maybe header, but i doubt it. since the warranty.. i dont know, still have to ask the dealer about the warranty.
what do you guys think? good path?
what do you guys think? good path?
ignint
im probably being completely ignorant here but i know back in the 20th century if somone wanted to gain a grip of horsies for a few hundred bux they bought a lightweight flywheel wich can add upwards of (virtual) hp! virtual horsies for those who dont know ( and virtual is probably technically the wrong word but thats what ive allways called it) is horsepower that cannont be dyno'd but the flywheel weighs less therefore your power gets to the wheels easier the end spend 400 bux and even on a tiny car like the fit you may get a significantly noticable difference... feel free to tear what i just said apart as its 2 am and im tired as shiznit!!! but if im right someone gimme some props! also i dont know if anyone makes a lightweight fly for this car but i imagine there is a japanese aftermarket one you could buy and i agree for 1k i would get the flywheel and some new wheels+tires that may be more like 1200 tho
I think any type of modification made to a stock car is all about tradeoffs. First off, there is no power to be made since the the volume of air injested is almost the same (nothing to FORCE more air into the engine). For basic bolt-on parts, power is GAINED from trading off another aspect of the vehicle. A nice free flowing intake and exhaust will net a few ponies in expense to added engine/exhaust noise, less mileage, and perhaps driveability. Likewise, a super light weight flywheel will decrease the amount of inertia stored and hence merit to driveability issues. I would recommend a free flowing intake and exhaust if you are ready for added noise. Buck for buck, the amount of HP gained is not substiantial.
since i just ordered Work Emotion CR Kai 16x7 bronze w/ 205-45-16 Kumho SPT. so broke, cant do my next mod until 2-3 months later. since i got T1R intake, my next plan is to get Fujitsubo Wagolis muffler (sinec i dont like loud exhaust) . then after get spoon B-pipe. hope the b-pipe wont be that loud. then maybe header, but i doubt it. since the warranty.. i dont know, still have to ask the dealer about the warranty.
what do you guys think? good path?
what do you guys think? good path?
check them out:
Tanabe Racing Development, USA - Concept G Catback
Tanabe Racing Development, USA - Medalion Touring
really
!? wow... I haven't heard them one after the other but damn, if the Tanabe's are louder then Fujitsubo Wagolis the Wagolis must be crazy quite... wow. didn't know that.
!? wow... I haven't heard them one after the other but damn, if the Tanabe's are louder then Fujitsubo Wagolis the Wagolis must be crazy quite... wow. didn't know that.
Last edited by JamesBizzle; Apr 9, 2007 at 08:20 PM.
id say a nice set of GOOD tires, throw in a K&N high flow filter, axle back exhaust and maybe some lowering springs....
-tires should be 400-500 at the most
-springs 120-160
-K&N 50
-leaves you 290 or so on a axle back of your choice
hope this helps....
tires=better braking, accel, decel, cornering
springs=better cornering, possibly better ride, lower center of gravity
K&N=better air flow, slight power gain
axle back=sounds nice and looks better than stock.
-tires should be 400-500 at the most
-springs 120-160
-K&N 50
-leaves you 290 or so on a axle back of your choice

hope this helps....
tires=better braking, accel, decel, cornering
springs=better cornering, possibly better ride, lower center of gravity
K&N=better air flow, slight power gain
axle back=sounds nice and looks better than stock.
The Fit's airbox is very restrictive, mostly for fuel efficency and noise control. Replace it w/ a good intake like a T1R or Power Box and you will not only improve the throttle response and drivability of the engine, but also open it up so that it can better use what power it has under more stressful conditions, like climbing hills, etc. You may take a small hit in MPG, but it'll be offset by not having the engine bog nearly as much when under a heavy load or hard acceleration.
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