I think I've come to my decision as to which turbo to use on a kit thanks to your guys opinions on my other thread. I have purchased a gt2560r (aka gt28r) dual ball bearing turbo to start my testing. depending on the outcome I'll most likely offer a gt2252 or gt2056 as a cheaper alternative for those who want a cheaper kit. i've sourced about 90% of the parts thus far. here's a rundown of what i've decided to use for the system.

GT28r turbo
i'll be building a 1.44 ID 304L stainless steel tubular manifold
2.5" stainless steel downpipe
2.5" stainless steel exhaust with magnaflow muffler
2.25" aluminum piping from turbo to intercooler
2.5" aluminum piping from intercooler to throttlebody
GReddy type S bov
22x8x2.5" bar and plate intercooler (will try to retain fog lamps)
RC 310cc injectors
AEM FI/C ignition fuel ignition computer
255lph hp walbro fuel pump(never can be too safe)
and misc hoses, silicon couplers, and clamps.

i'll be keeping you guys updated as things come together. goal is 160whp on pump fuel. 180-200whp on 104 octane and alky injection.

 

what kind of a price range are you thinking?

 

Just a few suggestions:
I think 2" and 2.25" would still give enough flow for the intercooler piping and help for more space to retain the fogs. I think the stock fuel pump is enough and it would be quite the job to switch out the fuel pump since it's located under the front seats. A journal bearing turbo would probably work just as well for this application and help to keep costs down. An external wastegate would be nice too. Other then those things it seems to be pretty good.

 

with a journal bearing turbo I plan to stay competitive with the other manufactuers out there.

 

I have thought of using 2" from turbo to IC and may do that with the finished production product. I have the 2.25" and 2.5" all ready laying around from previous projects so I plan to utilize that for the "prototype" setup. I may try the stock pump and run a pressure gauge to keep an eye on it, but If i see any drop in pressure it's gone!! from what I've seen all you have to do is remove the center consule and unbolt the shifter to move it to access the fuel pump?? seemed that way when I was installing my short shifter. I plan on offering a gt2252 or gt2056 (possibly even a plain jane t25) as the base kit to keep cost's down, and the ball bearing option would obviously cost a little more, just going to try the gt28r for the prototype system. probably not going to go with an external wastegate unless I see boost control issues, and/or offer it as an upgrade for those who want it.

thanks for the input. keep it comming guys.

 

price it at around 2500usd and you will be making lots of folks happy.

oh, and develop an a/t version. that would be cool.

 

we'll see. it will have to be worth my time.

no intent for an a/t kit at this time.(especially considering I don't own one.)

 

this is pretty interesting right here...

 

Why 104oct and meth/Alky? Meth is the same as race gas basically.
Plus, with 310's and a Walbro 255lph youll have plenty of fuel.

Id suggest a 190lph. Dont need to over due it, plus base fuel pressure will probably sky rocket causing bad city MPG with the 255.

 

figured i'd run 104 and alky just in case there is poor distribution in the stock intake manifold.

190lph would probably be fine but the 255's are the same price(if not cheaper). the internal fuel pressure regulator may not be able to keep up with the 255, but i'll have to give it a shot and find out. if fuel pressure does increase then it's back to the drawing boards. if its just a couple psi then i'm not too worried. especially considering i'll have management to control fuel delivery. another thing i'm a little concerned is there's not a 1:1 regulator to help combat the manifold pressure under boost. so with a 50psi base and 10psi manifold pressure there only be ~40psi leaving the injector.

this is all a learning experience to me. this will be my first drive by wire turbo setup, my first returnless fuel system i've turbo'd, and first time playing with the l15a. so i'm going to try and idiot proof it as much as possible.

 

check synapse for the fpr. im sure its a little pricy but its supposed to be the bee's knees! hahha

 

u have my support!!! keep it fairly priced too and ull put companies outta business lol(everyones gotta make there cut tho i know lol).

 

right now I'm thinking I can keep it around $3000 for a complete system, again assuming I feel its a worth while investment of my time. also looks like I have to step up to the plate with the recent t1r dyno. looks like its a race to 200whp. lol if the l15a can even withstand that reliably.

 

relative to my interest

 

im liking this....

 

going to pick up a beater next weekend then i'll start tearing down the car and building the system the begining of november. hoping to have a finished prototype tested and tuned with results by mid december. going a little slower than I hoped thanks to our lovely economy.

 

Has anyone come up with a fuel pump?

 

im willing to get a ball bearing turbo kit. glad someone is stepping up to the plate to compete with the other big tuner companies.

 

my my. how sad is it that just a few months ago I was on track to make something different and new and now the economy has kicked me straight in the nuts. tisk tisk what a terrible thing. anyone want to buy a bunch of turbo parts. lol

 

*thumbs down* whatcha got for sale yo?!