I've gotten it off by hand on my old Prelude - snapped a couple 1/2" drive breaker bars before picking up a 3/4" drive one. Then used 6 feet of leverage, and all 200 pounds of me hanging on it.

Installed the T1R pulley on Sunday, luckily I have a bud that owns a heavy equipment manufacturing shop. Heated the bolt and a 150# impact wouldn't budge it, a 300# 3/4" wrench backed it right out. Other than that, it's an easy swap.

guyz im a newbie around here
say could anyone help :
my GD3 fit with A/T transmission
im planning to change original crank pulley with a light weight crank pulley
is there any negative effect regards to my CVT ??
heard some people said that it could brings error, but didnt shared many detail...

how much horse power would i gain by changing light weight pulley ???

I'm gonna bump this thread for another question. Everyone has explained the removal, now what's the spec for installing the bolt? Thanks

130 ft/lb!

Not quite that simple . . .

When you're reusing your pulley bolt & crankshaft, tighten to only 27 lbf-ft, then turn an additional 90 degrees past that. Make sure the crank pulley bolt threads are lubricated.

If for some reason you're using a new crankshaft pulley bolt, it is 130 lbf-ft - but then you're supposed to remove it, re-tighten to just 27 lbf-ft, and then tighten an additional 90 degrees.

Actually its 40ft/lb according to the factory manual and you're right about a new bolt to 130ft/lb.

What year are you looking at? Maybe there's a difference between years - my '07 Helms manual says 27 lbf-ft.

2007-2008 Alldata
"Tighten the bolt to (40 lbf·ft) with a torque wrench and 19 mm socket. For a new pulley bolt, tighten the bolt to (130 lbf·ft) with a torque wrench and 19 mm socket."

Ah. Yeah, I'd trust the information in the Helms over anything else. They're the manuals authorized by Honda, and used by all dealers.

Just be careful....I busted the bolt taking the pulley off my hachi and essentially killed the engine.