what is the max boost for stock L15A
#3
so if i want to boost 1.0bar ( 14psi) , i still have to change sleeves and it mean have to take out the whole engine just to change the sleeves?
if so, i may consider change pistons and rods since already taken out. Does cosworth have L15A con rod and pistons , gaskets? anything i still need to change?
#5
stunk2 ran their fit at 21psi and blew the motor. im pretty sure they run it at a constant 15psi during the track time and it seems to hold it together.
jdmchris is at 12psi and his fit i staying together. a few other members on here are running the turbo setup at about 9psi and it seems rather reliable.
look for gd3kamiwanaB's motor build thread. he did a full motor bild and he is running 18-22psi daily and it seems to be holding up rather well.
jdmchris is at 12psi and his fit i staying together. a few other members on here are running the turbo setup at about 9psi and it seems rather reliable.
look for gd3kamiwanaB's motor build thread. he did a full motor bild and he is running 18-22psi daily and it seems to be holding up rather well.
#6
stunk2 ran their fit at 21psi and blew the motor. im pretty sure they run it at a constant 15psi during the track time and it seems to hold it together.
jdmchris is at 12psi and his fit i staying together. a few other members on here are running the turbo setup at about 9psi and it seems rather reliable.
look for gd3kamiwanaB's motor build thread. he did a full motor bild and he is running 18-22psi daily and it seems to be holding up rather well.
jdmchris is at 12psi and his fit i staying together. a few other members on here are running the turbo setup at about 9psi and it seems rather reliable.
look for gd3kamiwanaB's motor build thread. he did a full motor bild and he is running 18-22psi daily and it seems to be holding up rather well.
#7
boost will blow your motor sooner than na but you just have to take safety precautions to make sure your motor will last. the jacksons are building a true bolt on supercharger kit that is close to oem so they keep their good reputation.
tuning is the real key to prevent from destroying your motor...
tuning is the real key to prevent from destroying your motor...
#8
boost is a bad way to look at things. It mostly comes down to horsepower and cylinder pressures. a small turbo will build crazy cylinder pressure at low rpm's with high boost which can cause more problems than boost up top. also too much timing especially at lower rpms with boost can be more dangerous than higher boost with correct timing(too low is bad as well, raises egt's)
example a large t3/t4 could blow the engine by exceeding the horsepower capability of the componets with boost as low as 7psi
and a t25 could possibly survive at 15psi as long as boost doesnt come in to violently down low.
other things that can cause problems is excessive backpressure from either the exhaust system or a improperly sized turbo and most importantly. TUNING!
example a large t3/t4 could blow the engine by exceeding the horsepower capability of the componets with boost as low as 7psi
and a t25 could possibly survive at 15psi as long as boost doesnt come in to violently down low.
other things that can cause problems is excessive backpressure from either the exhaust system or a improperly sized turbo and most importantly. TUNING!
#11
t1r is same turbo as hks t25 journal bearing. t28 is the turbo i need to make 300, the t25 is only good for 220. i know this cuz my hks turbo is ALL THE WAY turned up and we could only yeld power of 220, on a side note my stock rods let go on a detonation at 10lbs, looked like taffy
now look what the correct rod for the job looks like,
now look what the correct rod for the job looks like,
#15
t1r is same turbo as hks t25 journal bearing. t28 is the turbo i need to make 300, the t25 is only good for 220. i know this cuz my hks turbo is ALL THE WAY turned up and we could only yeld power of 220, on a side note my stock rods let go on a detonation at 10lbs, looked like taffy
now look what the correct rod for the job looks like,
now look what the correct rod for the job looks like,
hks = fail fail fail fail
(or the installer/tuner is a failure)
either way somebody/everybody screwed up BIG TIME
kwsc for the win
Last edited by TheFitman; 09-23-2009 at 12:28 PM.
#16
nobody screwed up with that build. josh just happened to find the melting point for the fit. than he drank a beer listened to daft punk's harder, better, faster, stronger and decided to rebuild.
#17
delete......
Last edited by gimme; 09-23-2009 at 04:30 PM. Reason: insulting members is not so fun?
#18
I'd be worried about running more than 200WHP on a stock motor. It won't be the sleeves that let go, as Josh has found out for us. You'll banana a rod first. Of course it's all in the tune, thats why I'm running the T1R kit with different management - the Emanage Ultimate can't control SHIT on our cars.
#19
Muahhahaa wouldnt have hapened on a ge8 with them stock forged rods Silly question but did lower compression pistons exist for you gd folks back then?
Bump from the grave for no good reason.
Bump from the grave for no good reason.
Last edited by Lyon[Nightroad]; 11-26-2010 at 05:34 AM.
#20
there are no real lower compression pistons. the forged units now made are running the same compression as stock i believe.
no one is running higher boost on the ge to really test their melting point but i wouldnt be suprised to see you get around 240hp before self destruction happens.
no one is running higher boost on the ge to really test their melting point but i wouldnt be suprised to see you get around 240hp before self destruction happens.