Silicone would probably be too soft and susceptable heat to function under hood. It may also bulge under pressure like a rubber brake line would. I was planning on using PVC pipe inside the upper runners only to create a funnel effect going into the lower runner and then the head. I have about thirteen other projects going right now though, so don't expect anything for a while LOL

 

I've removed excess soldering that were in the collector section of the runners (In red) as well as removing an annoying lip were the flange was smaller then the pipe section of the collector (In green).... Before i did that, the flange was at least 3 - 4mm smaller then the section where they are soldered to the flange! So basicaly, what i did is take care of this with a air powered die-grinder and make it flush with the pipes!!



MArko!!

 

I did the same with my Megan header.... It is many little things like this that adds up and improves performance.

 

Is the picture of the aluminum lower intake manifold runner? Or is that the exhaust manifold? Nevermind, I just went and looked at my spare intake runner. I imagine that cleaning up the airflow on the exhaust mani can't help but do good things as well. I need to find the DIY on coolant bypassing the TB do any of you guys know where it went to?

 

I did it a long time ago.... Get an air hose splice and remove the hot water tube that is visible facing the side of the valve body from the front of the car and remove the hose on the windshield side that looks like the first one and secure them both to the splice with the stock spring clamps..... It'll take you 90 seconds and the splice is for 3/8" hose.... It may not show a decrease in AIT on the Scangauge but you wont be heating the air passing through the throttle body.

 

Personately, i did unplug the factory hoses from the throttle body and plug them with a brand new fuel filter from a old plymouth caravelle... It only cost 4$ and i won't have to worry about loosing them this fall when i'm gonna put 'em back on!! I'm probably the only one that have a coolant filter too... hahaha

 

I need to do a little parts scrounging and find out if there is a IAT sensor out there that is threaded. If I could find one, I could plastic weld a bung into the intake manifold top and get a truer intake air temp reading. Not that it would matter much....LOL Still I see intake temps in the 140-160 range on these 100+ degree days and i wonder how the little beast makes any power at all.

 

Well, I got put on short-term disabilty due to a broken ankle so I have had waaayyyy to much free time on my hands. So I have gone and done the Stage II of my modded intake manifold. That being the down-sizing of the runners to (hopefully) increase flow velocity into the lower runner and subsequently the head. I found that 1" outside diameter PVC pipe is a perfect fit in the runners so i have used that as a first attempt. Each peice was cut to four inches in length which meets the lower flange and terminates just inside the "cone" area inside the surge tank of the intake mani. I am using Loctite adhesive for a start, I was orginally going to use PVC cement, but found something interesting while test=fitting the pipes. It turns out that the intake runners are tapered as they go into the lower runner! They are larger at the top than at the bottom, inside diameter wise. So Honda already thought of the downsizing the runners obviously! We'll see what happens I'm going to give it a test run in a few hours, once the glue sets up.

 

Cool. We need more pics!

 

Well it would have been cool if it had worked! The short answer on downsizing the runners is DON"T. I immediately noticed a loss in power, especially on the top end. The loss was across the board, with the car actually feeling weaker than it did before the maniflod was modified in the first place. I tried to give it a chance and was desperately hoping to have picked up some low end torque, but alas, there is no good news. Soooo I yanked the mani off and extracted the tubes before the glue set up solid. It would seem that the ECU saw only a flow restriction from this large of a change, like a restrictor plate on a carbuerated engine. At least thats what it felt like from the drivers seat, and I didn't like it one bit!

 

The intake mani never really recovered fully from the runner experiment and developed a leak that got progressively worse. Eventually she wouldn't hold a normal static idle, so I was forced to go back to my stocker. With the element of time taken out of the equation I can now focus on rebuilding the mani the RIGHT way. I'm going to get a plastic welder and rebuild her from scratch, without any of the rookie mistakes I made the first time around. The leak was actually from the TB neck area where the plastic is thinnest and i had a lot of trouble figuring out how and where to cut the manifold apart. I ended up with a couple of very messy and haphazard seams in that part of the mani that were never adequately sealed up. The plastic welder will fix that. Stay tuned for phase III !! LOL

 

Be very careful, especially with the flow divider removed, without individual EGTs/UEGOs you don't know if you are creating a dangerous lean condition in one cylinder that the stock O2 sensor won't be able to pick up, instead it will just see the overall mixture is slightly leaner, with no way to correct for only one cylinder...

That plastic divider you hacked out was put there to aid in fluid flow it looks restrictive and to an extent it is, but it is doing you a favor.

 

interesting read.

 

^^ Glad someone is enjoying it LOL I have pulled the plugs three times during this little experiment to try to keep tabs on mixture issues. So far, there don't seem to be any lasting troubles. I know that Hondas are known to run hot on #3 cylinder when intake manifold mods have been performed. I don't think I am in any danger of grenading the motor at the power level i have right now. That being said I am keeping an eye on things and if the plugs start getting torched, I will switch back to stock for good.

 

Any updates?

Marko!

 

Nope, not really man. I have been side-tracked getting my monster truck winterized and ready for its first inspection since the new motor went in. A million little things to keep my weekends full LOL

 

And , back from the dead one last time. Finally got the damned plastic welder, after waiting on back-order for an eternity. The poor manifold roof did not take too kindly to having all that SP600 glue forcefully removed and I now have three decent sized holes to weld shut. WE shall see if I can save it and get her running right, give me about a week and I'll have it back on the car to test run...

 

Those are good news!!

Marko!!

 

Been playing with the plastic welder at work (what can I say i have the best job in the universe) Got the roof of the mani fixed, and the TB neck repaired. All that is left now is the hard part of getting the two halves back together again. For some reason the roof seems to have warped ever so slightly since I cut it loose of the base about three months ago. Between tack welding in some carefully chosen spots and filling the seam with welding rod I should be able to get it done. I hope so because with the new exhaust AND the manifold I should have some silly top end power (relatively speaking of course LOL) Pics to come....

 

Just read your whole quest for power, great work man! Any idea of how many miles you've the modded manifold on?
It's nice to hear the spark plugs haven't shown unequal EGT/AFR symptoms.

Your project made me think of hacking off the TB neck, sealing that end & plastic welding the plenum inlet in the middle.
Something like Golden Eagle's CR-Z mani, just top-mounted for simplicity & less vacuum routing changes.