Story, my Exedy clutch was failing on me horribly. Those clutches do not last long at all. I got a Spec Clutch to replace it. Haven't really had a chance to drive it yet so you can wait for my reviews later.


Spec Clutch Stage 3+ install in comparison to Exedy Clutch Stage 2

On the lift


Tranny pulled out with Exedy clutch in there


Exedy Clutch is out. It ate up my flywheel with deep grooves.


Spec clutch and Exedy clutch side by side. Never ever getting a 3 puck again!



Spec clutch with resurfaced flywheel.


Cleaned up the tranny while it was out. It was filthy.



Flywheel is mounted. Nice and shiny.


Spec Clutch Stage 3 is in!



I haven't had a chance to drive it yet. I will let you all know. From what my friend told me, the clutch feel softer than the last clutch for sure and grabs at the very low point of the pedal. He said it was very easy to drive. I also had my clutch delay valve deleted. Lines cost me around 70 bucks with all the fittings.

 

Nice! Lookin good ;p

your brake setup looks soo smexy.

 

What kind of friction material is on that Spec clutch?

Surprised to see someone say Exedy clutches don't last long. I loved my last Exedy and it lasted a good long time. Then I saw the snail and "oooooh that explains it."

 

Stage 2 Exedy? It lasted me just about a year. I can understand the Stage 1 lasting longer but that 3 puck is just not meant to last.

The Spec clutch is made of Carbon Semi-metallic friction material. I talked to the Spec guys and they said they last quite a while. Since I can't just fast forward until my clutch dies again, I can't really say its going to.

 

Let me know how it works out! Also how much did it run?

 

where did you get it and how much did it cost?

 

i have a spec stage 3+ on my ptgt... i've had it on there for about 16 months now and it's great...

like you, i had a 4 puck metallic clutch on it before and it wasn't a good dd clutch... pucks are too aggressive for a regular drive and wear too quickly to boot... when i looked into getting a spec stage 3, the tech told me about the 3+ and said that a full face clutch would last far longer, and be easier to dd than a puck'd... and it holds a hell of a lot of torque...

at least as far in as i am with mine, i haven't regretted it...

 

I don't know how much it costs ;x Ya know?

MSRP is $629, but there are other options available that don't cost quite as much.

 

First Impressions:
I got in the car, not knowing what to expect. Actually, I stepped on the pedal and it felt like MUSH! That's just telling you how soft it is. My friend was right though, it was like a super light clutch with instant grab. It needs some getting used to. I'm glad I got my power back. That was the main reason for this clutch. More info later when I break it in properly and mash on it!

 

yeah pedal effort is low which is nice... but that means engagement can be tricky... but only really in the mornings or on cold days...

i still like mine!

 

Nice keep us updated!!... I was looking into a Stage 2+ for mine

 

That is a nice f*cking Fit! I have a couple questions as I have been contemplating doing this for a while now, though maybe with a sprung 6-puck which I have had luck with in the past...

How much does that flywheel weigh?

Have you re-bled the clutch to change the friction point or is the pivot point just that different on this pressure plate?

Speaking of which, what is the clamp force/torque rating on that plate?

 

I'm not sure how much the flywheel weighs, but having a lighter flywheel will cause you to rev higher so you don't stall or bog out. Clutch line was rebled for the new stainless lines. The pressure plate causes the low grab point. It's thicker than the exedy clutch for sure.

I'm not sure of the power rating on it. I know its more than enough for my car even if I wanted more power. I'll have to ask Spec on that.

 

The other nice bit is that it frees up torque that normally had to over come the original flywheels greater mass, allowing you to get through the rev range faster in general.

Keep us posted on how it works out!

 

i just purchased the exedy stage 2 clutch, i haven't install it as yet since i'm still waiting on the flywheel to arrive.

but after reading about 3 pucks for daily, should i really get one with full face clutch disc since my jazz is for daily duties? but then my stage 2 clutch is a waste i dunno what to do.

 

You probably will not enjoy a 3-puck. Especially if it is unsprung. With a pressure plate with a higher clamping load it will be an on-off switch and with the fits delay valve it would probably get pretty annoying.

Six puck sprung or a dual friction full face would be the way to go if they are even an option.

I have done it in the pass and didn't mind, but my idea of streetable is a little more flexible than most.

 

The 3 puck Exedy clutch rides almost close to stock, it's not hard to drive. It's only a tad harder because it is a sprung 3 puck. I only didn't like it because it was the fastest clutch I have ever been through. Let's say you'll have it for a year or less. The pads are thin and don't last long.

The Spec clutch stage 3+ is a sprung full face, well more like a full 8 puck if you look at the grooves. Anyways, I've driven on for it a while, there is a ton of grab, but is easier to drive than stock. All Spec is really known for is a more driveable clutch and is also rebuildable. Meaning it will cost less the next time you need your clutch replaced. That's the main reason I wanted it.

 

Hmm i'm getting alot of mixed opinion about this. so it really is worrying me alot. thinking if i should get another exedy stage 1 before i install this stage 2.

I want to make sure before installing the clutch because I'm investing spending quite a bit of money on the mF's LSD, and JUN flywheel and the labour cost ofcourse, so i want it get done the first time right.

 

where did you buy it? because my exedy also failed on me twice? and have u use it yet? any comments? how many horse power uve got there

 

Thanks for the positive review. I noticed a few statements and questions that needed answering so I thought I would join the discussion. I hope no one minds!

Engagement Point:
There seems to be some confusion about engagement point. As a clutch wears the diaphragm fingers raise which means that the engagement point will also raise. You have likely noticed that when you have a clutch that is worn out that the travel required to release and engage the clutch is reduced (occurring at the top of the pedal). When you install a new clutch the fingers are lower which means that the point of actuation will be lower too.

Stage 3+ Disc:
Stage 3+ is considered to be full-faced. The relief-slots cut into the surface are there to aide in de-gassing (associated with heat) and the elimination of dust from the surface. This disc is the smoothest engaging, high capacity options, available! It is truly fantastic to drive...

Clamp-Load:
Clamp-load is only part of the equation when it comes to clutch performance and capacity. Friction coefficient and swept area are also part of the equation. We normally have ratings for our kits on the site but for some reason the Kit units are not listing torque output. I will run the numbers and post them ASAP.

Pedal-Effort (effort for actuation):
As for the reference to our kits having light effort, this is relative to way the plate is built. Increased pedal effort does not equate to higher clamp-load. Ultimately effort is relative to the way that the pivot/fulcrum is modified and there are ways to increase clamp without adding to the effort required for actuation. This is something that we have become quite good at and something relative to our methods! It's a lot like the colonel's secret recipe...I'd tell you more but, if I did, I'd have to kill you!

Rebuild-ability:
As for rebuild-ability, this is relative to the kit and the options selected. Often times discs can be relined, and of course flywheels can be resurfaced, but in most instances the plate will need to be replaced after usage. This is relative to the amount of wear present and the subsequent machining of this surface and its affect on geometry. That being said, in most instances, the pressure-plate (the part that is blue and the components inside the cover) will need to be replaced.

I hope this info helps. Let me know if you have any further questions and I will be happy to assist you! Thanks!