Hi guys!

I'm about to rebuild my engine as it started to knock a lot! It will probably blow sometime in the winter if i don't do a Rebuild soon... The problem is, i want a high boost Kraft Werks S\C later and i don't know if i should aim for a lower then stock CR (+- 9.5:1), stock CR (10.4:1) or something like 11:1CR for a 10Psi Kit with a FMIC! The car is equipped with a AEM FIC so engine control should'nt be a problem but premium fuel around here is piss poor 91 AKI...

I planned to use some custom made Wiseco pistons, K1 Rods, Big FMIC, engine and trans oil coolers, EVO X Fuel pump, 60mm Cat-back with a Cat Delete or Magnaflow High flow Cat...

I allready have the infamous Weapon-R intake manifold with the ''Way too big'' runners that i may switch back to the stocker (Or modify!), DC Sport Header, AEM FIC, Innovative 60A Engine mounts, NGK BKR7EIX plugs...


Any recommendations? I'm afraid i'm a FI newbie!! hahaha :P

Marko!

 

If you can get the high boost with Hondata reflash it will run with a higher fue to air ration than I feel it needs but the engine stays cool and has gobs of low end torque plus higher rev limit.. I think 11-1 CR wouldn't be to high if you are also going to go with a performance cam grind and water/methanol injection... I plan on sticking the WeaponR intake manifold on soon and what I have read from you and kylerwho has me thinking that I might have to get some tuning tools also with it , but I am expecting that the W/M system should keep things safe.... I've been moving real slow for quite awhile now but I do as much as I can on good days and find that Arctic Kreel Oil I take to lower my cholesterol is waking up my brain a little, improving my vision and making my knees and back feel much better..I should be able to get a lot more accomplished if this stuff keeps working like it does... When I get the Weapon R manifold installed I'll let you know how it does with my KWSC kit and then I should be getting the W/M injector system put on and having the throttle body bored out... That should keep me pleased for a long time unless Diamond Star Monsters has enough influence on me that I feel like I need to spend more money... I don't want to over do it and destroy the engine and drive train components so I will be beefing things up and improving the handling for awhile...

 

Nahhh i won't use the Reflash as my Fit is automatic! I plan to get the base kit for a manual trans and remove the insert so it would run at 10Psi, have some custom piping done to accomodate a large FMIC and a BOV, some 60mm exhaust and downpipe, having everything tuned with my FIC and if it would allow the use of higher then stock compression for better off boost fuel effiency (11:1 - 11.5:1) Meth injection!

Any ideas about this?

Marko!

 

If you are going to supercharge it without question, I would stick with stock compression. Lower will make the car run poorly when out of boost and higher may present a problem with your poor fuel choices.

My main concern would be the auto. I just don't know if anyone has tried giving it any power to deal with. It might be fine, but it also might not hold the power and there is no one to my knowledge that can upgrade it.

 

Leonine did install a high boost supercharger on a Auto Fit! But i don't know if it's still alive...

I'm concerned about the poor fuel choice too, in Trois-rivières they have 94 Octane Fuel at Petro-Canada but we don't in Quebec city... Mehh That's why i tought of Water\Meth injection! I just don't know how long would last a 1 gallon tank of W\M with a 10Psi S\C kit boosting a 11.5:1 CR motor...

Marko!

 

I have done some, not a lot, of research on the wather/meth injection kits. I have a stock bottom end 532 whp Mustang that could really use one. I just don't use the car enough to justify it.

I would give Snow Performance a call. I'm guessing you would go through about one gallon to every two tank fulls of gas. That's assuming normal driving. The more you're in boost, the more water/meth you'd go through. Put around normal and the tank would last you several fuel tanks.

 

Kool!!!

I tought i would have to refill Meth like 3 times more often then the gaz tank!!

Thanks!

Marko!

 

Depends on the nozzle size, number of nozzle, pump pressure and the size of the reservoir.

Since you are probably only going to run one nozzle, I can tell you that my last one nozzle setup used a big 625cc/min nozzle @ 150psi and I burned through a tank every 14-15 gallons of gas with mixed driving.

Being that you can buy 50/50 water/meth for less than $2/gal as premix washer fluid (the stuff rated to -20C) it's not bad at all. Also, if you will be running a big intercooler, meth and you have a tuning computer like the FIC I would stick with stock compression ~10.5:1CR. You could go to 11.5:1CR and be fine, but you would have to back the timing off above peak torque and throughout the rest of the top end and make your power on boost.

Personally I would not run an S/C, especially a centrifugal compressor like the Rotrex.

You just won't have the area under the curve like you would on a properly matched turbo setup.

 

^THIS!

Don't bother with trying to go high boost (10psi) with your setup (auto trans) or you will be disappointed. I'm doing/running almost exactly what you plan on (except manual trans) and barely see 10psi before I have to shift. When you drive the car its like this: instant 5psi.... up to about 4500 then ever slow slowly creep up to 10 psi right before stock redline. The good news is the car is fun as hell with just the low boost kit installed without all the headache off tuning etc... (I know you've got the fic installed but still...). Really if you can't up the rev limit from stock, don't bother going that route.

 

The auto trans has been reported in japan to bust at 280whp but I cant honestly vouche that it is the max the trans will handle. You will be running into the problem of building the motor to be bullet proof but the transmission more than likely cant handle it.

gd3kamiwanabe did a full bottom end build and even bumped up the displacement to 1.6L. That might be you best bet if you plan on doing a full build and you want to run the rotex.

 

The motor will be built.. It's stock except some bolt ons and it's about to blow allready.... Severe piston slap or a piston pin i don't know but something is definitely wrong...

The reason why i was thinking about the centrifugal S\C and 11.5:1CR (oversized 0.020 over!) with some ports polishing is because the car is being driven all year round and i tought it would be more streetable in the snow\ice then a T\C.. Plus, i think it would be less of a strain on the Automatic tranny\drivetrain to have a more linear power delivery the rotrex will give then the more or less sudden jolt of power a Turbocharger is known for! That and the fact that i absolutely hate when the car downshift in 3rd gear everyday when climbing some inclines i absolutely have to pass on to get to work... Having the car revving past 5k rpm when the car isn't hot in sub zero temps makes me worry! A S\C would probably give me the extra torque needed to allow the car to climb those inclines without having to downshift like crazy! Plus, i'm on a relative budget for now... i'm gonna have to find a 2nd job to fund the Fit as the motor won't last thru the winter as it is right now!

Marko!!

 

on a budget would be just a stock rebuild and slap the supercharger on. running the high boost kit would be plenty of power.

If your looking at dropping money on a supercharger kit have you considered swapping in a k20? It would be reliable with more power even if you run a k24a4.

 

I tought about a K series engine but as i wont do everything all in once, it would prove being too expensive (Engine, manual tranny conversion, etc)... Plus it's my Daily Driver, and i don't own another car, so downtime have to be as short as possible as i'm gonna have to rent a car while it's gonna be repaired! That's why i tought about ordering all the parts needed (pistons, rods, gaskets, etc!) then having my motor rebuilt when everything would be ready to be!! That way i could enjoy my car and allow it to break-in properly and then, later, put a S\C and W\M kit on it!

I didn't think about a stock rebuilt as i don't see the point in opening the engine and paying a couple grand to finish at the same place... plus, forged internals will be a cheap insurance later down the road!

Marko!

 

How much of a budget do you have?
I was looking around briefly and pistons were about 550(cp) and rods were around 800 (brian crower). Then a supercharger kit was around 3600 and a Meth injection is around 450. That comes to about 5400 roughly. That is good for right about 200-220hp.

I talked with an engine yard in seattle and I can get a k24a4 with 5 speed trans for 1200. Then you need mounts 250, kpro 1500, axles 350, wiring harness 400, shifter box and cables 500, and a header for 1000 that gives you a total of 5200 roughly. I know Im missing stuff from the list but you get the idea. That would be 160hp just as a base line. Then buy a k20a2 head and the power would be in the 200hp+ with oem reliability.

This is just something to think about. Everyone sounds like a broken record telling everyone to just k swap including me.

 

Ill tell you from experience, I wouldn't do a crazy build on a car that is also your DD. I had a Auto as well that I picked up the Base Supercharger. By the time I was done with it I had every thing you could for a auto, bigger injectors (195cc), intercooler Header, test pipe and full exhaust. The last year I was having alot of problems in the winter with the car. It would just srtuggle to start in the very cold weather. IDK how cold it gets where your at but here in Minnesota there where a few nights it was -6F to -10F.

Of course your experience very well could differ from mine but the more you change and moddifly the more potential you will have for problems. I saw you mentioned something about K-swap. If your planing to do it or not to go auto to manual K your looking at around $15K. So yea that is just food for though as for a Kswap

I am by no means a expert on any of this and guys like DSM have much more knowledge about this kind of stuff, but as a guy that has kind of gone the route you might I'm just trying to give you my experience.

 

I haven't had any problems from the KWSC after 22000 miles over the 2 years since installing the base kit.. This coming spring the High Boost udgrade will have been in it for its second year.. I plan to keep it mild in tune but not so much that there isn't things being done that will continue to make it run faster...I got to messing with some chemicals that DSM has mentioned a couple of days ago and a couple of other things I have used in the past or recently read about online.. Blown engines love octane and cool weather and the stuff I used also acts as a fuel system and combustion chamber cleaner and lubricant... My car is running as smooth as ever idle and has much more torque ... I can make the hills to my barn in 3rd gear with ease.

 

one other thing I was going to ask is how readily available is E85 in your area? that could also be a other option for fuel.

 

We don't have E85 fuel near Quebec unfortunately... As for the cost of swapping a Manual tranny in my car, i know it's prohibitive. That's a reason why i would want to keep my L15A1! I don't want a monster of a car, just more torque to hopefully help it from downshifting everytime and maybe have fun sometimes!

Marko!

 

You aren't going to get much torque out of the Rotrex. It is a linear boost gain.

 

Agreed! I've had turbo and supercharged vehicles. For more torque and less downshifts, you want an easy to spool turbo. Look at the stock 1.8t VW's. That small, not so great turbo turns a fairly anemic motor into a torque monster that is enjoyable to drive.