I have a couple of questions regarding this mod:

1. Is there a gasket needed between where the exhaust exits from the motor and the 1st cat?

2a. Do I need a spark plug defouler on the first section(the "header") portion or just on the test pipe?
2b. If defouler is not needed on the first portion, can adding one prolong the life of the sensor?

3. Did you guys run into any trouble with the front sway bar as User ID " Lyon[Nightroad]" mentioned on his install where he had to tighten the passenger side more vs the driver side to prevent the pipe from hitting the bar?

Its on amazon for $254 shipped!

 

1. Yes, I reused the original gasket.
2. Do not use a defouler on the first O2 sensor! This one is used to monitor and control the AFR. The second one is just there to monitor the first cat.
3. I personally did not run into sway bar issues, but I'm not lowered either.

 

Thanks for clarifying!

 

Im lowered 2 inches up front and had zero clearance issues.

I was just upset at the lack of attention to detail WeaponR did.

Welds INSIDE the pipe were not cleaned up
EGR tube had to be BENT to fit.

NO HARDWARE INCLUDED except shitty hardware for the flange between the two pieces (the big donut gasket)


I will never recommend the Weapon R. It is not a true straight boltin if it requires additional purchases to fit, and extra labor to grind down 1/4 inch thick welds left inside the primary pipe.

Also, it looked like trash after only a few days of use. Removed it, spray some black ceramic paint on it from autozone, and enjoyed better appearance and actually less underhood temps!

 

What additional purchases did you have to make?

 

2 bolts and nuts for EGR flange

O2 CEL eliminator kit (looks like giant L)

3 bolts and nuts for catback flange

gasket for catback flange, as OEM is a metal rin in grooved flanges


MINOR stuff. BUT definitely not fun to deal with if you go to install without opening box, and BAM find out you need more shit. And this happened to me after the cats were nearly out lol


Point of the story, open boxes for parts and verify what you need.

Perhaps weaponr's lazy ass started including hardware.


Id be happier if they cleaned up their damn welds!!!!!

 

Good to know! Thanks for the info!

 

Hey guys, so I finally have some time tomorrow to do this mod, I've already collect all the necessary gaskets, nuts and bolts required, so now I just have 1 question to those of you that have done this DIY style, is dropping the subframe absolutely necessary? I don't have access to a lift, I'm working with ramps, jack, and jack stands. Enlighten me my fellow fitfreaks! Thanks!

 

No, you do not have to drop the sub-frame. You can sneak the cat out.

It's going to be tough on the ground though.

 

That's great news, I hope this is a sign of things to come! Can't wait to get started lol

Edit: are the bolts accessible from the top? Removing the windshield wipers, the plastic trim pieces, and the shield that's right behind/above the engine?

 

Yes, you can sneak a ratchet from up top, without removing the cowl. You may have to remove the air box. You will working blind. My suggestion for those 4 nuts is to use a "6 point socket" (preferably SnapOn) and make sure you are square when you start to crank on them. Or you will round them off, they are tight and at a bad angle.

 

Great! Thanks for the tips!

 

+1 on using 6 points


I jacked my Fit up about 2 feet up from behind the right front wheel, and was able to do everything for the most part. Hardest part is deciding to remove the cat bolts at the engine before loosening the EGR pipe bolts lol WHY IS THIS THING NOT COMING OFF!! oh........EGR pipe

 

Wow props to you bro, I was not successful in my attempts yesterday.
I removed all the stuff by the windshield, got the car on ramps, crawled under only to realize I had no room to maneuver what so ever lol.

Sucks I have to cough up $190 to get a shop to do it for me.

 

So after several weeks of waiting, I've finally managed to get the header/manifold on! It is just what I was expecting having read the reviews of other fitfreak members, better response, quicker revs, increased fuel economy but at the cost of noise, but I'm loving the sound, it is music to my ears.
I appreciate all the help that I having been getting.
However, after driving after some time, the dreadful CEL now has come on
The code is P0420 and P0420pd
Cat threshold/pending

So I'm wondering if is is cause by the wr CEL eliminator not sitting in the right position, as I have the opening where the o2 sensor sits facing the rear. I'm wondering if the exhaust flow in this position is triggering the CEL. How are you guys with the CEL eliminator positioning it to where the CEL is not being triggered?
Current mods: prm intake, wr header/cat delete, stock b pipe, spoon axle back.
Running 93 octane

Sorry for the long post!

 

its because wepaonR sucks donkey balls at making a CEL eliminator for a ULEV honda, ULEV being Ultra Low Emissions Vehicle.

I only occasionaly get a CEL for that, and that is because my CEL O2 thing is approx 5-6 inches long (cheap ebay kit, 1 elbow, 3 different sized tubes)

I monitor the voltages to that secondary O2, and it seems to show the more I beat on it, the more likely it will pop the code. Driving normally around town, I dont see a CEL.

Beat the ever living crap on it, and it sometimes pops on.


In short, buy an ebay CEL kit, all it does is space the O2 sensor further away from the exhaust. It will work great. You MUST be careful not to put the sensor too close to the swaybar or firewall or floor

 

Ah, I take it you have the sensor closer to the engine and that the ebay cel kits have more length vs the one offered by WR.

In that case, I will try to add the a blox cel eliminator, it's short and straight, to the WR one and see if that will do the trick.

Always thankful for your input sir!

 

closer to engine? no. The point is to remove exhaust gases from the sensor's sample range. The further away from the main stream of exhaust, the better chance the exhaust cools and fools the sensors into thinking some of it was absorbed.

Yes, there is a pretty large temperature and density difference after only 6 inches in exhaust. Its why Honda decided to button up the catalytic converter so dang close to the cylinder head!


Any ebay CEL kit will work. Just be aware that things are a bit tight under our cars. I almost had the sensor rubbing on the underbrace before I noticed it. The engine running, and of course shifting under gear changes would have ripped it apart

 

Closer to he engine as in how the cel eliminator is positioned.

Engine--------------------------muffler (my current cel eliminator/o2 position)
|----- o2 sensor

Vs

Engine--------------------------muffler ("I think" your positioning"
o2 sensor -----|

The "|----- "is the cel eliminator

I was thinking maybe the way the eliminator is positioned may have an effect on the exhaust pressure entering the eliminator then to the o2 sensor. But I'm not scientist so it was just a guess. But since you say it's the temperature then I think I may just be talking jibberish lol =P

I'm going to get more distance with the sensor from the exhaust and see if that helps.
Thanks again

 

position has a bit. you are correct though, my O2 kit pushes it towards the cylinder head.

It does make sense that position helps, as exhaust does NOT like making a big U turn lol

post results when you get and install your kit!