Hi Folks,

I am looking to replace my pre-cat O2 sensor, part# 36531-PWA-E02

I have approached the following places for the original part:
Amayama Trading - Genuine Parts for Japan Used Imports - Amayama Trading
JAPANESE GENUINE OEM PARTS CATALOG?JP-CarParts.com

The best price I have received for the genuine Bosch part is $179 USD.

I do see that the Honda part number cross references to the Bosch part# 0986AG2217
Car Part HONDA 36531-PWA-E02 (36531PWAE02), SENSOR, FR. OXYGEN

So long as the cable length and plug match do we think pursuing this as an option is worthwhile?

 

By pre-cat you mean the downstream oxygen sensor?
I've replaced my upstream sensor a while ago with an NTK (aka NGK) one.

Your downstream part #24026, upstream part #25680.

 

Nice, upstream is what I am after.

Where did you source yours from?
No issues with the plugs?

Would you mind let me know what your symptoms were?
I am getting what feels like a starvation cycle stutter like some one turning the key off and on every 20 seconds or so, only at high load below 3000rpm...

 

rockauto is generally where I get my parts.

 

I bought mine when I was still working for Parts Source.
Mine crapped out after getting bad fuel from a gas station here. I always go to Shell for gas, but this one time I was almost empty so I desperately needed fuel and BOOM! bad fuel.

When mine went bad, the engine hesitated and sometimes felt like it wanted to stall.

I also advice to get parts from Rock Auto. That's where I buy my replacement parts from.

 

Thanks guys,

About to pull the trigger, cheepish and fast shipping to NZ from Rock Auto as well.

Should have the right plug?

 

DENSO Part # 2349060

 

Thoughts as to why the Denso is half the price again?

 

I have a 2004 NZ/AUS Jazz with the L13A engine rather than the 2007 US Fit so I thought I should double check the part numbers.
I did a search on Rock Auto via my model and came up with this CAMBIARE O2 Sensor Part #: VE381229

This is 2/3 the price of even the NTK.

Is this the same part as the DENSO Part #: 2349060 or the NTK part #: 25680?
If so is it worth paying a bit more for either of these?
If so do they both have the 675mm length cable of the Cambiare?

 

a cable length of 675mm seems way to long to be an upstream o2 sensor.

I always go with denso when it come to japanese sensors. bosch is for euro cars in my book.

 

675mm is only 26.5inches.

 

That is the length of the Cambriare one listed for the car by Rock Auto.

Here is a photo of the genuine Honda part. You can see it is easily 26" and
Honda part #: 36531-PWA-E02 is defo the pre-cat sensor.
Looks like the 2007 cars use one with about 375mm cables. Anyone able to confirm?

Anyone able to confirm why the Denso sensor is so much more expensive than the NTK and also why the Cambiare is so cheap?

 

It turns out that you do need the long Cambriare one for the pre 07 GD1s. Not that it did any good. It does feel more responsive but the low rpm, med to high load "hiccup" is still there. Thoughts anyone?

I guess I should check the fuel pressures, does anyone know what they should be?

 

when is the last time you checked spark plugs, coil packs, or valve lash?

I hate sounding like a broken record but those are the issues common with the L15.

 

Understood, Lash and plugs were attended to 15k ago. Also those are typical issues. This is a very atypical problem so I am sure the usual fixes wont resolve.

Below 3000 RPM medium to high load hiccup like someone has turned the key on an off quickly. So far I have not heard of anyone else that has had this same problem...

 

OK so OBD Wiz dashboard view freezes and drops the connection when the hiccups occur. I did see the ignition timing output jump around once before it did.
- Does this sound like an ECU issue?
- Do we know which sensors the ECU stops mapping from over 3000RPM as it doesn't hiccup over those revs.

 

what battery are you running? I know a few people have had some odd occurances due to low battery levels. I think DSM linked the issue with under sized wire or something to that degree.

 

Brand new battery :/ The this did however start happening one day after driving through a flooded motorway...

 

perhaps you need to do a compression test?

 

Resolved for now.

I changed the spark plugs to IK20 iriduims and you can still feel the flat spot where the hiccup would have occurred but it now doesn't shut on an off. Who would have thought that 15k old bkr6es NGKs could be the issue... My guess is that the coil packs may be next to go and that maybe when one is having issues the ECU resets the whole lot. Long bow to draw but still confused how this only manifested at low RPM and seemed to be affecting all cylinders not just one or two...

Thanks for all the pointers folks.