Some of you have had problems using the CUI phono jack (sound only comes out of both speakers when you have the plug pulled out a bit). I am about to wire up my own fit using the CUI jack and I know what your problem is...

The original instructions for this jack list the following:

Use Diagram B and connect the following:
3.5mm Jack to Harness
Terminal 1 to B15 (AUX DET)
Terminal 2 to B14 (AUX R)
Terminal 3 to B13 (AUX L)
Terminal 4 to both B3 (AUX SIG GND) and B4 (AUX SHIELD GND)

However, this is incorrect based on the CUI schematic. Here are the correct wiring instructions:

Use Diagram B and connect the following:
3.5mm Jack to Harness
Terminal 1 to B13 (AUX L)
Terminal 2 to B14 (AUX R)
Terminal 3 to B3 (AUX SIG GND)
Terminal 4 to B4 (AUX SHIELD GND)

B15 (AUX DET) just needs to be "jumped" to any of the ground signals. In the OEM jack, there is a switch that connects AUX DET to ground when a plug is inserted. But, there is no switch on the CUI jack, so this should be permantly connected to ground. This will solve the problem that most of you are having with the CUI jack. This does NOT apply to the Radio shack jack. The terminal numbers are not related to the ones on the CUI jack.

Thank you to everyone that has risked their car and shared their experiences. It made the process much easier for the rest of us. I'll let you know how my installation goes...Wish me luck!

 

A super big thanks to everyone who has devoted their time to do this mod and post about it. It was a gigantic help.

FYI: I used the OEM auxiliary jack, a Cat 5 cable, a molex five pin housing with these molex female crimp pins to connect to the jack end. I tried using the RS232 pins but they don't fit correctly on the back of the radio and I didn't want to saulder anything to the head unit. After several trips to Frys to try and find a housing or housings that I could use for the back of the radio, I finally gave up on trying to make a housing and just used .100 female crimp pins to connect the five wires seperately to the pins on the back of the radio. This worked like a charm, and I wish I would've just done it from the get-go.

I was gonna post pics but my wife had the camera so you´ll just have to take my word that it all looks very professional.

 

The cable that allows to enable the AUX button on honda fit 2008 now sells on ebay.
Search
Honda Fit base 2008 AUX input adapter

 

I went the OEM/cat6 route. Works great. I didn't have a trim pry bar, so I used some cheap plastic palette knives, which are really thin and flexible. Here are some install pics. I wanted to post the locations of the headunit clips, bc they aren't fully explained in the MusicLink install.

Wrestled with this stupid A/C bottom cover clip for 45 mins.


Tape job.


Here's my problem. The lower portion of the headunit won't snap in tight. The clips are there, but it's just not pulling it in all the way. It's not getting caught on the cat6 cable and I'm not missing any screws/clips. I'm going to play with the torque on the (2) screws that go up on either side of the A/C controls. Maybe being too tight is causing it to bow.


It's not too apparent in the pictures, but when I try to snap on the bottom A/C coverplate, there's a 1/8 gap on the front.

 

I put the aux jack in my 2008 Honda fit today!!! Works Great!!! Thanks to all the contributed!!! Just some thoughts about my install: 1)The hardest part for me was Step 7 in the Honda Music Link Installation Instruction guide, where remove the two center console screws. I began by using a Phillips screw driver after fighting with that for about an hour I realized you could use a socket instead. Once I switch to the socket wrench it took about 5 minutes(I think the socket was an 8mm, don't really remember though). 2) I wasn't real sure where pin 1 started on the B connector and then I wasn't sure if 2 was to the right or below. Well going with my gut instinct I did left two right top to bottom which ended up being correct In other words just to clarify if you look at the back of the radio as if it were still installed starting at the left side top rows goes 1-10 and bottom row goes 11-20. 3) I could also only find the two female bit connectors no luck with the single female ones, so if you turn the third set of two wires side ways for the aux jack it works fine and then on the radio I just plugged it into slot 15 and 16 and of course slot 16 doesn't do anything.

Big Thanks once again!!!! This was really AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!

 

I had the same problem when I was reassembling my head unit. I tried more torque, less torque but I couldn't get the alignment back to perfect on the ac cover at the bottom.
I finally realized that I had used the wrong screws for the radio (the two that are way up high inside and its easier to use a socket wrench to get them). I had used the two screws from the glove compartment. They look very similar, but the length on them is slightly different, so I would double check that because they are interchangeable.
When I switched those screws the alignment problem was taken care of.

 

I have an OEM jack with wires connected and ready to be attached to the radio for sale.

PM me with interest.

 

I followed these instructions to the T and was able to get my aux input to work in about 4 hours. I took meticulous care because it was my first time, so someone more familiar could probably get it done faster.

I did end up breaking a one or two clips that superficially hold in place the head unit and the two clips that secure the large piece of plastic that surrounds the gear shifter and parking brake. But niether of those are really important as both are secured in place by serious screws.

 

Out of curiousity, did you all have success pulling off the head unit? I broke two clips because I pull the headunit pretty hard to get it off.

 

Is anybody else having issues with their 1/8" aux cables failing? I've had 3 cheapo cables (from different brands) go from perfectly functional to having to wiggle and pinch the wire in order to get sound to both L&R channels. I'm wondering if it could have something to do with the hacked wiring job or if it's just the $4 cables - and I'd rather not drop $30 on a damn monster cable to test my theory.

 

Cables rarely fail in my experience, especially if left alone.

 

Cheap cables. had a few fail and forced myself to buy the $12 belkin. All is well.

 

my OEM aux jack assembly is up for sale again ($30), along with an OEM factory radio system (08 US model, base, $100 shipped (or 80+shipping).

I am also in the market for a metra kit (08 US). please PM me if you are considering going back to stock (or a stock look).

Please move this post if this is the wrong thread to be posting in.

 

Could someone post up a full "how-to" with photos please as most of the photos from the previous posts seem to have disappeared over the years! Also, some members have done it differently which is confusing particularly without photos.

We've just bought a 2005 Honda Jazz (UK) and would like to install a 3.5mm jack but I'd like to try and install a non-OEM jack like the one Skierdood has in his photo.

I just need to know what bits to buy, quantity and which wires plugs where etc.

Many thanks if someone can help!

EDIT:

Will this work? I think its only a 3 connector. I can't seem to find anything with 4 or 5 connectors.

 

OEM jack still available?

 

Thanks for doing all the leg work on this. It's something I've wanted to do for a long time. I just did it last weekend, and thanks to your help, it went smooth and turned out perfect.

As for soldering to Connector B I found an alternative. I have some background in RC planes. I purchased 3 wire servo plugs from tower hobbies. They slid on the pins smooth and snug. If you buy two of them one goes over three pins on the top ( two shorted together and on to a capped unused wire) and the other three pins on the bottom ( all used separately). It made the job easy for someone who was never a good solderer.

Airtronics Servo Plug w/Cable 3W Z
Tower Hobbies part number LX0947
Qnty = 2


Thanx again for the post.

 

wolffan gave a good explanation on the required wiring, for more info read this TRS connector - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Basically a 3, 4 or 5 pin 3.5mm AUX socket will work, it will just require the appropriate wiring - which also depends on the type of 3.5mm plug you are using to connect your MP3 players.

Also, the B4 AUX SHIELD GND is only used if you are using externally shielded cable. If so, connect this to the cable shield at the head unit end (the shield is not connected to anything at the aux socket end), if not it can be left alone.

The wiring of the other GND's will depend on your AUX socket, cable etc as per the Wiki article.

 

i have the 6 wire aux jack described above and want to connect it directly to the 14 pin harness that goes into aux input on hu. can any one help tell me which wires connect to which? i've got a green, yellow,blue, brown, white and an odd black that's not connected to pins but don't know which wires on 14 pin to connect to. thanks in advance

 

I did the 3 wire with

one going to B13
one going to B15
one going to B3, B5, B15

total cost free - found all the wire and plug at home

sounds great too

 

do you still have the pictures as reference for the diy?