Hey guys,

I want to wire up a pushbutton that temporarily interrupts my DRL/Fog lights. I want to interrupt them because I have HIDs and the DRL feature has them on full bright as running lights. We live on a military installation, and it's common courtesy to shut off your headlights when you come to the gate for checks.

Anyone know how to wire something like this up? I just want the front to shut off, if possible, but not necessary. Thanks!

Ryan

 

Don't they turn off automatically when you set the parking brake ? My old Kia did that, I used to lift the parking brake just one notch when I wanted to be discrete when entering the apartment parking lot at night. Didn't try it with the Fit yet.

 

Yeah, I heard that one too and tried that. Because I have HID heads & fogs, the "DRL" warning light is on in the gauge cluster, so I'm assuming it makes the e-brake trick not work. Thanks for the tip, tho.

Is the wiring simple, like a positive and a ground? Can I just wire the interrupt into the headlight/foglight harness?

 

if you have hids then i recommend you just pull the fuse.
cut them off completly. they will mess up your hids.

 

I'm trying to learn about this. The HIDs were just as bright as when the DRLs were on versus when I turned the headlights on manually, so I didn't see any difference. Is it because the DRLs only supply low-voltage to the ballast and the bulb causing it to burn out/fry quickly? Thanks for the response!

 

just pull fuse #15 and your set.

 

Yeah, that's what I did. But I want the DRLs and I'm trying to figure out how to do it. But on top of that, I also want a pushbutton to interrupt them (temporarily turn them off) while the DRLs are running.

 

Just pull the center console and wire a toggle switch that grounds out the wire on the ebrake. I dunno if there will be any other ramifications from this, aside from your parking brake indicator lighting up on the gauge panel.

One thing the S2000 guys do, so they can drop the top while driving, is just pull the ebrake up one click. It's enough to ground the microswitch, but not enough to engage the parking brake.

 

if you keep running DRL's and HID's at the same time your
HID's will fail eventually. Just my .02

 

upom: I tried to engage the parking brake a click, and I guess it's something with the HID/DRL combo with the "DRL" warning light on that stops that feature you're talking about. But that's the idea I had (to wire in a grounding switch to the DRL system).

niko: I'm not trying to be an *ss, but why? I don't doubt you, you seem like you know what you're talking about, I'm just curious why you say it. What, technically, happens to cause the HIDs to fail with DRLs?

 

not sure exactly how much power drl's on our cars reduce by.
but the drl system reduces the power to the bulbs which in turn
your ballasts and bulbs suffer from insufficient power.

 

okay, that's what I was confused about, because there was no difference with my HIDs whether DRL or when I turned my headlights on. I guess I'll have to look into that problem too. Thanks!

As far as my original problem though, do you think wiring in a grounding switch to the headlight wiring harness would safely cut off the headlights/foglights?

 

i think the best bet might be to hook up a switch at the fuse box.
basically take out the fuse. then put in two wires in place of the fuse.
add an inline fuse now and a switch where you want.
try that out and see what you com up with.

 

Excuse the childish drawing, but this is basically what you're talking about. Power wire from 12V source to switch, through FUSE #15 slot, to headlights with inline fuse? The inline fuse go where I have it, or between the fusebox-switch, or between the battery-switch? Thanks for your patience...and VERY good idea!!! + Rep for you Niko!!!

 

your close.
from your picture just take off the 12v source and the headlight.
put those two wires together to create a circle.

 

That is what I was thinking too.
Here I fixed the drawing for you. You don't need the 12v and bulb because you already have 12v coming in 1 side of the fuse and the other side already lead to the bulbs.



This switch will essentially turn on/off the DRL circuit.

Also, it is weird that you say your HIDs aren't any dimmer with the DRLs. Unplug the HIDs and measure the voltage coming out of the stock bulb socket when DRLs are on versus when the headlights are on. DRLs 'should' be about 30percent less.
If indeed it is less (which I am sure it will be) you need to just unplug the fuse and not have DRLs or you will damage your HIDs by underpowering them. If you dont see any difference in light output it could be the HID ballasts over compensating, which will obviously damage them.

You say that you want DRLs but you also want HIDs. I say, unplug the DRL fuse and just turn your headlights on during the day. Heck, you could even tap into the headlight circuit and connect it to a circuit that is hot with ignition. That way, any time your key is in and turned your headlights will be on.

 

Yeah, I thought that one completely through when you guys posted a reply. I'm stupid! But they aren't any dimmer when the DRL is functioning. I'm thinking they were overcompensating because the DRLs had the OEM bulbs dimmer than when set to ON. I have been turning my headlights on during the day, but that gets irritating having to turn them on. I like the look of the HIDs and I like being seen in low light but I'm too lazy to want to turn the headlights on every time I get in!

Guess I'll go try to track down a line hot when the key is on (trying to track that down now)...know of any off the top of your head that are on only when the engine's on?

 

How about the radio. It only works when the key is in.

 

Ha! Thanks for putting up with my stupidity! :/

 

No stupidity.
No worries.
I certainly dont know everything either.