I did both the rear turn signals and reverse lights.

I used these for both and they work perfectly. One note, using these for the rear turn signals causes the turn signals to appear a slightly lighter shade of red than the brake lights. For a more accurate match, you should use a red LED bulb instead of a white, but like I said, they work. For the reverse lights, they are excellent and very bright!

One of the things I dislike about the stock Fit (and pretty much every other car) parking/turn signals is that the dim parking element is on during flashes, resulting in less contrast between on/off turn signal flashes. The Type A solves that problem by not illuminating at all during flashing.

edit: always use red LEDs under red lenses and amber LEDs under amber lenses.

Andre, would you be willing to do an install photoset for applying the resistors to replace the headlights? I want to do heads, tails, and fogs, with the amber-white switchbacks. I have some electrical experience (120V-4160V), but almost no electrical experience with cars past replacing bulbs with OEM style and changing batteries.

Thanks, and great work by the way!

Take this for what it's worth to you... probably nothing at all.

If one of my evil ex-wife's clients hits you, their investigator will comb your vehicle looking for anything that could be used to assign partial fault to you and reduce their payout. A little each case adds up to millions over many cases, and they really celebrate when their client actually collects money from the victim. Doesn't happen often, but it does happen.

Certainly, if you weren't wearing a seat belt, that's easy money for them. Another example would be for a night collision, one of the things he'll look for is broken vs vaporized light filaments, indicating a bulb (i.e. headlight) was off rather than on at the time of impact. They may overlook a non-DOT incandescent bulb, but an non-DOT LED bulb replacement is obvious. They can certainly blame an HID conversion in a reflector designed for a halogen bulb for blinding their client that hit you.

This is why I usually keep external lights DOT and usually factory. YMMV

Ordered these bulbs from Amazon over the weekend, arrived today and install is complete. I like the look, although I wish the front map lights were a little brighter, but overall I am very pleased considering the cost ($13.66) These also worked for my license plate which looks very good. I have always done LED in my past few cars and is usually one of the first things I do considering the cost.

I bought the two pack of the 10 LED for my trunk/hatch and since it only requires one, I was able to fit the other 10 LED in the rear cabin light and it fits perfectly!

Normally, I'd be happy to, but because I have everything all taped up with electrical tape, I'd rather not undo it all to show a true step by step. But it really is EXTREMELY easy. My bad for not doing it in the first place.

Plan on it taking about 30-45 minutes to do all 4.

I'm not big with electrical at all (I'm a financial analyst, good with numbers, not technical stuff lol) but it really wasn't hard. The hardest part is having enough room to install the resistors for the front lights. Especially the driver side light, with the battery right there its a tight space to work it.

You need resistors for each of the turn signals that you want to replace with LEDs. 4 total if do front and back. Front and rear, you will need to CAREFULLY cut the plastic shielding that covers the wires. Cut enough to give yourself plenty of space to work with, but not so much that you are cutting like a madman. Again be careful and go slow, you don't want to cut the wires.

After you're done, I recommend covering the splices and the wires that are no longer covered by the stock plastic shielding with electrical tape. Just to prevent water are anything shorting it out. Don't wrap the actual resistor with tape. They get very hot and the resistor will melt electrical tape.

If you do it right (and this weekend I will take some pictures as a guide), for the rear, you can put the resistor closer to the car than to the light and when you put the tail light housing back on the car, the resistor will fall down behind the rear bumper and it works perfectly because there isn't much room between the light and the car body once the light is fully secured.

For the front, I zip-tied the resistors in place so they wouldn't interfere with anything in the engine bay. Especially the driver side, I didn't want the hot resistor near the car battery. Again I will take pictures just to show how I mounted them.

I used this video as a guide and it was perfect. All the advice given here worked for the Fit. Follow along with the video and you will be in business!

I got a PM asking for a better video of the switchback LEDs in action, so I thought I'd share it here too...

Thanks! I'd definitely go with the other style, the Type A, that are off/on when flashing. It's hard for me to tell when yours are flashing… like they're the same brightness just different color.

I agree also. Next mod on my list. lol

[QUOTE=Timbo Slice;1278789]Ordered these bulbs from Amazon over the weekend, arrived today and install is complete. I like the look, although I wish the front map lights were a little brighter, but overall I am very pleased considering the cost ($13.66) These also worked for my license plate which looks very good. I have always done LED in my past few cars and is usually one of the first things I do considering the cost.

If you have any left over they (the bulbs you used in the maps and plate) also fit the front side-markers .... pop the hood and reach in .. Nice!!

Curious. I bought these exact same ones. They fit good and are the color I want. However, I noticed when I insert the bulb into the socket, the bulb doesn't fit perfectly inside. I can pull it out with no major struggle while the stock one was really stuck in there. Is it just me?

Has anyone come across a decently bright LED headlight that is DOT approved? H4 is the bulb size. I keep encountering poor reviews that many aftermarket LED bulbs in this form factor are not bright enough.


I don't mind my halogen lights but I do like the hotter color temps of the HID and LED lights, just don't want to spend a billion bajillion dollars on them.

Hi All! New to the forum! :thumbups:

I'd like some clarification on the bulb types for the headlight and fogs.

I checked with my local Honda dealer and they said the headlights were HB2, similar to the H4. which is correct?
if you have HID's on your headlights, is it low beam only or both? what happens to the DRL?

Fogs were H11.
I've seen some LED H11's out there...

just wondering if anyone has tried them.

thanks!!

According the the owners manual, the headlights are H4 and the Fogs are H8. Those are what I used and that seems correct. I've had no issues using H4 and H8.

If you install HIDs the car will still have the DRLs activated so your HIDs will be on full power whenever the car is running. To deactivate the DRLs, you can pull the DRL fuse under the dash.

Both sets of H4s that I tried (one set HID and one set LED), both retained a hi-beam low beam function and it works just like the stock bulbs. To be honest, I'm sure there are some H4s out there that are low beam only, but both that I tried has both.

I'm not interested in HIDs. LEDs though very much.


Looking at this kit.


Sirius LED - 6400 Lumen 9003/H4 or H13




Still waiting for the company to get back to me on the function of the DRL circuit with this kit. I cannot be sure that the LED will function properly on the lower voltage DRL circuit.


Basically I don't know if the LED module it has will recognize the lower voltage and operate at a lower light output or if I need to pull the DRL fuse and not have DRL at all which don't matter to me.


What do you guys think?

I used the blue edition LED bulbs from GTlightingusa.com and they are decent. No extra wiring harness was necessary which was nice.

But as you mention, I wish they were a bit brighter. The black edition bulb they sell is a bit brighter. I wish I had opted for that one.

Thanks Andre!

For your LED fogs, did you need a load resister? I'm assuming no.

looks like I've got some projects ahead...

The black edition looks like an exact copy of the Sirius LEDs. My better sense is telling me that pulling the DRL fuse is the only solution to make the LED's work correctly. Not opposed to that at all.


If these Sirius guys don't get back to me, I may just drop coin on the black edition. Im into photography and I can measure with my light meter exactly how many lumens it puts out.

Thanks for sharing that.

I was thinking about upgrading to the black but now I won't.

And you're right. We really need to figure out the stalling with HIDs. I loved my HIDs but the occasionally stalling wasn't any fun.