Do any of the companies out there make a higher amp alternator for the Fit's yet?

Anyone know if another model like a civic alternator will fit?

 

Pheonix gold used to make some sick looking ultra high output alternators, don't know if they still do or not. Stinger still does, website is STINGER .: Hear Music In Color

The fitment of these units are supposed to be universal, best to poke around to see if it meets your application.

 

These units WILL NOT FIT. The Fit has a Mitsubishi alternator. It's about the size of a softball. I purchased a second Honda alternator from the parts department and sent it to Ohio Generator who I have dealt with for years and years. I am always modifying my stereo systems in all kinds of cars. Anyways, they should have these available at this point. They said it was very different from the standard Honda alternators. Be ready to pay. Output max'd at 160 amps. Their phone number is 330-875-6677. They are used in all kinds of the top SPL vehicles and such.

 

anyone know if there's a supplier in Vancouer BC??

 

Granted I have never seen a Fit with one, but I have seen both brands I mentioned in Honda's at many audio competitions using them. With Stinger it isn't just like one size fits all, they have "Hundreds of models available with on-going R&D for more applications" - Stinger web site. I would say they may or may not have one for the Fit. You would probably have to e-mail their support account for info.
Support@StingerElectronics.com

Sorry, I guess I was being misleading in my first post when I said they were universal. I guess I was making it sound like there is just one that fits everything from the big blocks to the Smart cars

Yeah I can't find the Phoenix gold ones anymore, too bad. They were awesome units, usually chromed right out. Something that really looked sharp in an engine bay.

 

Stinger has great alternators, but THEY don't make them. A Florida source does, then they sell them. Therefore, they cost more. Here's the modified alternator from Ohio Generator.

http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/7941/img1671af0.jpg

 

Just so I understand this correctly.. You bought a replacement stock Fit alternator and get it rewound to a 160 amp unit?

If so how much did you pay for the alternator and how much to get it rewound?

 

$575. Until there is more availability of parts for this application and stock alternator, the price will be high.
I mean normally you can get an replacement alternator for $650 complete. The price of $575 is WITH YOU sending yours in.
Jobber price from the parts dept is about $250. So you too, for a lot of beans (ooof) can have an upgraded alternator.

In my system, I have a max draw of 120 amps. I have four small Stinger batteries in the well (model #SP680) but with the stock alternator, it just doesn't get it done. I have to turn my system off for awhile so it can charge before I can play it again.

In case your wondering, my system is one JL Audio 500/1 and two 300/2's.

 

I checked with Stinger. They can't do this application even if you send them your alternator. They only work with larger case units.

Toy, ask the guys at AJ if they know someone locally. Or just get out the phone book and start searching if you can get something bumped up in output.

Stock output is probably no more than 60 at best at max RPM's or above 4000.

 

Bringing this to the front with an update. The computer on the car limits the output of the alternator, even with a swap such as this. The above alternator is made to be 160 amps, but the computer limits it's output to about 100 amps and that's at 4000 RPM's or so.

 

WOw, this is great to know that the output is limited...

Wonder if there is a way to have the lead keep the output from being capped, I remember that one of the wires leading into the alternator decides wether the device should be on or off, or to be limited.

But I'm sure there is a reason for it (to keep the batteries from being over charged most likely)

 

EPA mileage ratings. Ohio Generator has someone working on a chip that would be installed in the alternator to change this. It's in the works but might take some time. It's a bigger issue with GM SUV's because those types of owners are always putting big systems in their trucks. With gas prices where they are at, I'm not sure if that will continue. On an Avalanche, the computer holding back output can increase mileage ratings for GM by about 2 mpg. How the car companies go about their mileage ratings is a farce anyway but this makes it worse to go to these extremes.
You would think that the Fit with it's light weight and small-can't go anywhere engine, they wouldn't have to do that.

 

the ECU should notice the draw and apply it's load effectively... cars should come with an amp meter near the battery to know how much more power to cook up for the battery to keep charging.

 

man thats crazy that your system is that much of a hog. I was wondering one thing tho. I noticed awhile back that stinger had made an alternator that had 2 outputs. and was like 70 on one and 130 or so on the other. One for the car and one for your system. I know the stingers don't fit, BUT what if another company made one with such a configuration. Would that still be limited by the ECU?

 

I would vote yes. There's a plug/harness that's comes partially from the computer to the alternator. My system isn't really a hog. Just real power, real watts. With Eminem jammin' and the windshield moving about 3/16", I would say I have a 110 amp draw. Wattage is 1100. 500 for the subs, 600 for the front components. Lot's of headroom up front. With 9 lbs of Dynamat in each front door, the kick drums/midbass is incredible. With the limits on the charging placed by the computer, you have to rev the engine up if your demo-ing standing still/parked. Rev to about 2,500 rpms. I'm probably only getting about 50 amps at that point. The stock system is even less, that's for sure. I have a hookup for a power supply so if I'm at a show, it works out pretty well.

 

yeah i used to rev to about 2500-3000 when i was showing off mine in the fit. I'm really interested in your setup now because i want some good midbass like what u got.

 

i'm sorry, but you are not getting anywhere close to a 110 amp draw /w those jl amps. you would get those if you were playing sin waves, but not regular music.

with regular music, you would only see about a third of what the max draw is...

 

I would know. 50 Cent, Eminem, etc (not regular music) type of music is very demanding. I can hear the sag in the slew rate of the amps when the car isn't plugged into an outlet and I'm running at idle after a few minutes. Oh yeah, and the windshield is moving almost a 1/4inch in the middle under the rearview mirror. If I'm listening to classical music or jazz, then yes, the current draw isn't there as stated. I build and expect for the worse conditions.

 

i doubt that very much, 50 cent and em, is just rap music, i wouldnt call it "demanding." if you were to play pure test tones or sine waves, then i could imagine a current draw that big. and you're probably getting more amperage draw from your monoblock for the subs, but not from your system as a whole...so i doubt you'd be drawing anything near 100amps... just physics

 

Another text book junkie with no real world experience. What's your system like?