Amps that Fit Under Front Seats
New Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 10
From: San Jose, CA
The amp can go further under the seat if needed. I find it very easy to adjust it this way....The amp has a built in fan for extreme heat. I have yet to hear it...I have Kicker components up front and Polk full range coaxials in the rear with a 10 inch Pioneer sub in a custom box and Alpine mono amp. Yhe sub amp is mounted under the drivers rear seat. Fits perfectly! Everything sounds great. Plenty of tweaking room.
the location looks good.
The place in the glove box is UP from the globe box, right under the air bags, against that wall, there is a metal frame that goes across the whole car, I keep seeing it as a viable place. Also another place is above the ECU which is to the right of the glove box, but I think heating there would be bad.
The under the seat location has AC there for the foot well heating, it's the 2 black hoses coming from one of the pics where the seats are.
Just my 2Cents
The place in the glove box is UP from the globe box, right under the air bags, against that wall, there is a metal frame that goes across the whole car, I keep seeing it as a viable place. Also another place is above the ECU which is to the right of the glove box, but I think heating there would be bad.
The under the seat location has AC there for the foot well heating, it's the 2 black hoses coming from one of the pics where the seats are.
Just my 2Cents
Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 531
From: Round Rock, Tx
i ad though to my self that if i got any sort of sub(s) that i would mount the amp under the rear seats. the question i have is can you still fold the seats down?
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Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 578
From: Mililani, HI
JL Audio HD600/4 fits under the seat
Well...decided to increase my loan balance (ouch) and went w/ the JL Audio HD600/4, JL CS110RG sub-woofer, and professional install. They installed the amp under the drivers seat. The installer said the screws were just barely in the floor to avoid messing w/ the gas tank.
They wired 2 channels for the front BA components, 2 channels to power the sub, and the rear BA coaxals are powered by the Kenwood HU amp.
Holy cow! It was like a science class when the installer explained how to set the various frequencies (treb/mid/bass) from the HU. I finally got it setup how I like it.
Still haven't cut the all-season mats....just using a cheap mat for now.
Here's some pics:
(...w/ seat in normal driving position...)
(...w/ seat pushed forward...seat could've gone forward more too...)
(...the sub...)
I normally close the cargo cover while driving so the sub will be out of sight when I leave the car. It sounds good w/ the cargo cover closed.
They wired 2 channels for the front BA components, 2 channels to power the sub, and the rear BA coaxals are powered by the Kenwood HU amp.
Holy cow! It was like a science class when the installer explained how to set the various frequencies (treb/mid/bass) from the HU. I finally got it setup how I like it.
Still haven't cut the all-season mats....just using a cheap mat for now.
Here's some pics:
(...w/ seat in normal driving position...)
(...w/ seat pushed forward...seat could've gone forward more too...)
(...the sub...)
I normally close the cargo cover while driving so the sub will be out of sight when I leave the car. It sounds good w/ the cargo cover closed.
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Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 578
From: Mililani, HI
I gotta be honest....I'm pretty much a newbie when it comes to car audio components and deferred to a lot of people to help me choose an amp. 
My main goals were to find an amp that could (1) fit safely under the seat, (2) provide sufficient power for my current setup & listening needs, (3) provide comparable features/specs to other similarly spec'd amps, and hopefully, (4) not break the bank.
I think...I met the 1st three goals w/ the JL...the last one kinda hurt. Looking @ the PDXs....the 4.100 or 4.150 could've been a possibility. Oh well...the bullets left the gun....I'm satisfied with the results.
My main goals were to find an amp that could (1) fit safely under the seat, (2) provide sufficient power for my current setup & listening needs, (3) provide comparable features/specs to other similarly spec'd amps, and hopefully, (4) not break the bank.
I think...I met the 1st three goals w/ the JL...the last one kinda hurt. Looking @ the PDXs....the 4.100 or 4.150 could've been a possibility. Oh well...the bullets left the gun....I'm satisfied with the results.
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 578
From: Mililani, HI
Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 41
From: USA
Assuming you (or your installer) set the gains according to JL's instructions (very simple with a digital multimeter and test tones that you can download from realmofexcursion--just make sure you use 0db tones and have everything on the HU set to flat), all you should need to do is set the crossovers. I have a JL 300/4 with a similar setup as yours (front components and a sub). I've played with it quite a bit but I keep coming back to setting the high pass and low pass filters at around 80hz. I find I prefer the 12db slope instead of the 24db slope but that's a matter of preference.
With a new system, I found it takes a little while to "get used to" how it sounds, since its so, so different from stock. I think most of us are used to hearing music with lots of distortion and a really clean sound seems a little weird at first. Once you get used to it you'll find you hear elements in the music you never knew were there. You'll hear it like the artist intended, which is what high quality sound is all about.
With a new system, I found it takes a little while to "get used to" how it sounds, since its so, so different from stock. I think most of us are used to hearing music with lots of distortion and a really clean sound seems a little weird at first. Once you get used to it you'll find you hear elements in the music you never knew were there. You'll hear it like the artist intended, which is what high quality sound is all about.
Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 28
From: Westport, CT
Nice amp install - I'll have to look into that one.
As for the box, I'm surprised that such a small box works for that sub. Any idea on the volume you ended up with? It looks tiny, and I'd love to be able to minimize lost space in the trunk.
As for the box, I'm surprised that such a small box works for that sub. Any idea on the volume you ended up with? It looks tiny, and I'd love to be able to minimize lost space in the trunk.
Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 41
From: USA
I'm running one of these:
JL Audio: Products
It doesn't thump like a bigger driver but does a great job and blends in really well. And it's the perfect size, in my view. Plus, it's more than happy with 150 rms watts.
JL Audio: Products
It doesn't thump like a bigger driver but does a great job and blends in really well. And it's the perfect size, in my view. Plus, it's more than happy with 150 rms watts.
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 578
From: Mililani, HI
Assuming you (or your installer) set the gains according to JL's instructions (very simple with a digital multimeter and test tones that you can download from realmofexcursion--just make sure you use 0db tones and have everything on the HU set to flat), all you should need to do is set the crossovers. I have a JL 300/4 with a similar setup as yours (front components and a sub). I've played with it quite a bit but I keep coming back to setting the high pass and low pass filters at around 80hz. I find I prefer the 12db slope instead of the 24db slope but that's a matter of preference.
Amp...Rear Channel (to sub):
- Filter Mode = LP
- Filter Slope = 12 db
- Filter Freq. = ~90 Hz
- Input Voltage = Low
Amp...Front Channel (to fronts):
- Filter Mode = HP
- Filter Slope = 12 db
- Filter Freq. = ~90 Hz
- Input Voltage = Low
Amp...General Setup:
- Input Mode = 4 channel
- Remote Level Control = rear channel
- Pre-outs From = F+R
Kenwood HU:
- Sub-W-Level = +1 db
- Bass Level = +2 db (Freq. = 100; Q Factor = 1.25)
- Middle Level = +2 db (Freq. = 1.0 kHz; Q Factore = 1.00)
- Treble Level = +2 db (Freq. = 15.0 kHz)
- HighPassFilter Front = Through
- HighPassFilter Rear = 100 Hz
- LowPassFilterSW = Through
- Loudness = On
- HU Amp = On
I'm gonna try and fiddle w/ the settings like you mentioned & see how things sound and change.
With a new system, I found it takes a little while to "get used to" how it sounds, since its so, so different from stock. I think most of us are used to hearing music with lots of distortion and a really clean sound seems a little weird at first. Once you get used to it you'll find you hear elements in the music you never knew were there. You'll hear it like the artist intended, which is what high quality sound is all about.
I'm running one of these:
JL Audio: Products
It doesn't thump like a bigger driver but does a great job and blends in really well. And it's the perfect size, in my view. Plus, it's more than happy with 150 rms watts.
JL Audio: Products
It doesn't thump like a bigger driver but does a great job and blends in really well. And it's the perfect size, in my view. Plus, it's more than happy with 150 rms watts.
Last edited by raton; Oct 1, 2008 at 04:25 AM.
Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 41
From: USA
While it's a completely personal choice, you might try just listening to the system for awhile with all your eq's set to flat. The value of having such a clean system is that you can listen to what the artist wanted you to hear. But like Duke Ellington said, 'if it sounds good, it is good.'
Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 821
From: Nanuet, NY
Sound quality is amazing different between these two amplifiers. That's why the JL Audio HD's cost so much more. Their patented technology in filtering and such turns D class "turd" sound into beautiful fidelity. To a trained ear on really good speakers, you can ear the metallic/grainy sound in the PDX.
For enclosure choice, you did really well. The small ported 8W3v3 is a killer box but that 10 inch sealed is great too. Change your front channels to 12db HP at about 85-90 HZ.
As noted, you might want to run with less boost on your frequencies from the Kenwood, ESPECIALLY at 15k. That only adds in ringing and hiss from those Boston's. Maybe try 8k +/-. Either way, ENJOY.
For enclosure choice, you did really well. The small ported 8W3v3 is a killer box but that 10 inch sealed is great too. Change your front channels to 12db HP at about 85-90 HZ.
As noted, you might want to run with less boost on your frequencies from the Kenwood, ESPECIALLY at 15k. That only adds in ringing and hiss from those Boston's. Maybe try 8k +/-. Either way, ENJOY.
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 578
From: Mililani, HI
Sound quality is amazing different between these two amplifiers. That's why the JL Audio HD's cost so much more. Their patented technology in filtering and such turns D class "turd" sound into beautiful fidelity. To a trained ear on really good speakers, you can ear the metallic/grainy sound in the PDX.
For enclosure choice, you did really well. The small ported 8W3v3 is a killer box but that 10 inch sealed is great too. Change your front channels to 12db HP at about 85-90 HZ.
As noted, you might want to run with less boost on your frequencies from the Kenwood, ESPECIALLY at 15k. That only adds in ringing and hiss from those Boston's. Maybe try 8k +/-. Either way, ENJOY.
For enclosure choice, you did really well. The small ported 8W3v3 is a killer box but that 10 inch sealed is great too. Change your front channels to 12db HP at about 85-90 HZ.
As noted, you might want to run with less boost on your frequencies from the Kenwood, ESPECIALLY at 15k. That only adds in ringing and hiss from those Boston's. Maybe try 8k +/-. Either way, ENJOY.
I ended up turning "Loudness" back on. I kinda like the "fullness" of the highs/mids/bass with it turned on. I also turned the HU amp off--Kenwood says turning it off enhances the quality of the pre-amp outputs...so I turned it off.
It sounds good w/ the HU amp off...but still find myself turning it on and off. I'm leaning towards leaving it off.So far...really enjoying the new sounds.