This is my first post as you can tell. I been reading these forums for the past week. I have the 2009 Fit LX so the Factory 4 Speaker Unit.

Due to money restraints, I have to upgrade in stages.

1) Upgrade fronts to Infinity Kappa 63.9i's. I prefer not to go components for simplicity. Keeping factory Head Unit as I don't want my vehicle to look like the stereo is upgraded.

2) Pick up Kicker CompVT 6.5" Subwoofers as replacement for rear speakers.

Now the part I am needing help is on the amplifier. I can't decide on one or even a few. I am looking at the following options:

a) 4 x 100w RMS @ 4 Ohm (100w for rear subwoofers and I assume 120w for front speakers since they are 2 ohm)

b) 1 x 300w RMS @ 2 ohm (150w/Sub) or 2 x 150w RMS @ 4 ohm (150w/Sub)
Power fronts off of HU.

Assuming Amp has High Level Speaker Inputs, but I am not against Speaker-RCA adapter. I am hoping to mount under driver seat but I am not set on it. I just don't want it interfering with my cargo/magic seats. By getting the speakers first, I will be able to tell if I can deal with the power from the HU.

Thanks for any advice and sorry for the long post.

 

1. go with components if your running an amp. its the same install either way, and they will sound way better.

2. do not put subwoofers in your doors. they are going to sound and terrible if they are not in a sealed container.

your best bet is to get a 2 channel amp for the front doors, and get a powered sub tube for the trunk. those audiobahn tubes are great. or maybe it will fit under the back seats. they are really space conservative.

the stock headunit is really weak, and the stock speakers are actually pretty decent. i upgraded my headunit first (since i wont be running an amp to the speakers) and the difference was like day and night. they stock speakers sound great. since your running amps, theres really no reason to upgrade the headunit.

 

Since I have the 4 speaker model, how easy is it to install components? I dont want to cut into anything. I want this to look like its the stock stereo.

The reason I want the 6.5" subs are two fold. First, because I am not looking for bass like a true subwoofer. I am looking for just rounding out the low end frequencies to compliment my speakers.

Back to my other question. Should I power Front speakers and sub? or Just sub? Which amp do you recommend for this application?

 

unless you want the components showing your going to have to cut and if you look at a fit sport your see the components in the dash i keeped it simple and just used a 5 channel amp good luck bro.

 

With the amp, what are you going for? Clarity or volume? I ask because I've noticed that the stock HU in the Fit is very weak, and worse, very noisy. The problem with that is if you amplify from the stock HU, the noise will only be worse. I'm sure plenty of people have done it and don't mind, and you may not mind, but it is something worth pointing out. So if clarity is important, you will have to upgrade the HU. If not, then no biggie!

About the Infitity speakers: be prepared for problems with clearance. I've installed a number of different Infinity model speakers, and there is almost always a problem with the speakers being way too deep for the door. The only times there isn't a problem is if it is a large SUV or truck. You will certainly have to purchase at least 3/4 inch speaker spacers to put them in.

Rear subs in door: Honestly, you really won't notice any difference from 6.5 inch dedicated subwoofers. These are bascially just standard door speakers that are only 1-way (vs 2 or 3 way). Also, more problems with clearance as they tend to have larger magnets. In my opinion, you should put 4 of the same speakers in the doors, put a 4 channel amp behind them (start with the stock HU and see how you like it) and see what it does for you. You may end up wanting to put a small sub into it. JL makes a great stealth sub that is self-powered and looks stock.

Components: I'm not bothering with components in the front as I don't want to cut my doors. There are some component speaker sets out there that have mounting options using a bracket (pretty sure Rockford does), but that usually involves a few screw holes, or glue if you're okay with them falling off all the time.

(Sorry for the long post, I tend to go overboard!)

 

your best bet is too go to a good audio store(NOT BEST BUY or like there of) and see what they say, i replaced all my(OEM) crap with Boston PRO 5 1/4 and no amp (at first) but when i could not turn it up past 25 with out the stock HU clipping out the sound i had the 5 channel Amp(boston) put in and its been gold and also put what ever components came with the pros in the OEM spot and love it good luck

 

Hmm interesting. That may be an issue. I don't want to upgrade the HU regardless but since I use my iPod for most of my music I may have to run an eq with switchable inputs.

I have found a couple of people on this that have installed these speakers so I know they can fit. Takes a small amount of effort but I have the right tools.

Th 6.5" subs are more for curiosity than anything. I wasn't sure if there would be a difference but I just want to find out. I won't install a true sub as I am not looking for SPL.

I am lazy. That is the only reason I don't components. More complicated install.

Thanks for your reply. You gave me a lot to consider.

As of now I am looking at the following but that may change because of your post.


6.5" Infinity Kappa 62.9/63.9 (Not sure yet)
6.5" Kicker CompVT Subwhoofers
Power Acoustik 1600/4 (Not sure whether STAX or BAMF as the only difference is the casing)
Line Out Convert (Not sure which one yet, I like variable)
EQ (To be determined based on SQ of above setup)

Some people may not know or like Power Acoustik's stuff. I have already owned some of their stuff and their amps are some of the best priced you can find.

My last system was stolen and I don't want to go through that ever again.

15" Orion H2 DVC 2Ohm w/ Custom Ported Box
Power Acoustik A3000DB (1900Wrms @12V) running at 1Ohm
AudioBahn AEQ8 5-Band
AudioBahn ABC600T Components Frontstage
Cheap Aftermarket Pioneer 5x7's Rear
Audiobahn 1 Farad Cap

*Sniffles* She will be missed forever..

 

its the same install for components...

2nd if you put subs in the doors they arent going to sound tight at all, they are just going to sound like a fart...quality will be absolutely terrible. BAD idea.

my friend has alpine type r coaxle speakers that are amped. they sound good at low volumes, but they really cant handle high volumes in any way watsoever. go with comps! they will thump nicely with the bass.

if you are as lazy as you claim to be, just swap out the headunit. alls i have is the head unit, and the subs in the trunk. i cant imagine enjoying music at a higher volume then its currently at. with stock speakers, its clear as hell.

 

I've got a DD 8" and a DD MB1 amp and it's PLENTY!! It's only putting out 345 watts, but the sound is just insane! For those that don't know, "DD" stand sfor "Digital Designs" www.ddaudio.com HAND-MADE SUBS BABY!!!

Check out www.doseaudio.com Ask for Alex, and tell him that Lawrence sent you. He'll hook you up! (He better, he's my cousin!)

 

How so?

Correct me if I am wrong. I have the LX so I would have to run the wiring for my components as well as mount the tweeters. I also found out in the forum that the tweeters that come with Infinity Components do not mount nicely in the stock location.

A free air sub vs sealed only differs in its efficiency. The air in a box acts like a spring. When the sub moves outward, the air is under tension. This creates a low pressure vacuum that pulls the sub back to equilibrium. The sub then goes back to that equilibrium point but moves past it into the box. This causes compression of the air. The air pushes the sub back out. All this does is make the sub do its work more efficiently as the air helps the sub move in and out versus with free air that does not happen. Free air rolls off faster then a sealed box design causing less bass at low frequencies however it is still a smooth curve just like a sealed box. As a result a sealed box running the sub at say 75Wrms should be equivalent to the same sub in free air running 150Wrms (or something very close).

Comps are still midbass resulting in peak bass closer to 200Hz. With a dedicated sub, frequencies down to 50Hz or lower should be achievable.


I do not want to swap out the head unit.

Thanks for your 2 cents. I am thinking about the components install now. Hmm, decisions, decisions.

 

Consider using a higher end pair of coax's up front and spend the effort on dampening the front doors completely. Forget the other stuff and evaluate your needs after that. Infinity's only hurt your hearing after awhile.
By going with coax's, you'll have better path lengths for a more even sound stage. Without doing the rears/sub, you can use that money for better fronts.

 

Ya I think I will be going components up front, followed by an amp. I decided to get a high power 4 channel amp so that I can just turn the gain down. I agree on the Dynamating the doors.

I will wait see where that puts me as far as satisfaction and reevaluate my needs. We all know there is no such thing as being done.

 

I certainly understand about not wanting to upgrade the HU. For me, my hesitation was the quality of look the after market dash kits would provide. I decided to bite the bullet and just upgrade the HU, for me the better quality sound will outweigh the not-so factory look of the dash.

All of this is just our opinion. It is your car after all, and completely up to you on what to do. The Inifinitys will certainly fit in, and sound great in my opinion, it just takes a bit more work.

My main advice: Do it in stages. That's what I'm doing, mainly because I don't have the liquid cash laying around to buy all the components at the same time. But if you're unsure, then do a bit at a time and see what happens and how you like it. You can also go back and return something if it doesn't perform how you expect it.

As for Power Acoustik, I know the brand and I consider them to be very good, especially for the money, like you said. Go for the 6.5 inch subs and let us know what it's like, thats certainly a path that others may consider after your input. As for EQs, I don't know if I've ever seen an EQ with high level inputs, but of course I haven't seen everything!

Good luck and let us know how it goes!

 

Not wanting to upgrade has nothing to do with looks..and yet it does. I don't care what it looks like. What I do care is having my stereo stolen again. Out of sight, out of mind sort of thing.

[QUOTE=MetalFit630;693178I don't know if I've ever seen an EQ with high level inputs, but of course I haven't seen everything! [/QUOTE]

What I meant was using 3.5mm headphone jack from my iPod to RCA's. And then connecting that to an EQ. Then for FM/CD, just use a line out converter to the EQ. This way I bypass any degrading between iPod and RCA to amp.

 

Theft I understand as well. My 98 Civic got stolen when my remote's battery died and I simply locked it at the gym. They used a slim jim to open it and a flat head screw driver to start it. Got the car back, but they obviously emptied it. That's why I haven't done anything to my Fit, I just tinted the windows and will put the alarm with remote start in next week.

Anyways. I'm not sure (someone correct me if I'm wrong) but the source of the noise will be the amplifier chip in the stock head unit. This amp chip has a very poor signal-to-noise ratio, meaning that it is not a clean sounding output. As long as you're using the stock head unit's amp, that noise will still be there and further amplified by any aftermarket amp. What you're looking for is a line out, not a powered or speaker level output. Unfortunately the only way to use an aftermarket amp with the factory HU is with a line output converter (that you mentioned) which uses the noisy amp chip. If you could bypass the stock HU, then you'd be fine. Is that what you intend to do with the iPod and EQ? If so, that's probably your best option and should work well.

I hope it doesn't look like I'm trying to shoot down your ideas. I'm just telling you the things I've learned from experience (both personal and professional) in order to hopefully save you wasted time, effort, and money. I really am trying to help!

 

Yes that is my plan.

I use my iPod for 90% of my audio listening. FM rarely, am never and CD...well I haven't burned one in a couple years. Therefore the EQ will be a glorified switch. However I will probably use it a bit as an actual EQ.

EDIT: Clarification