Fit Interior Modifications Discussion area for interior modifications including seats, steering wheels, upholstery and gauges

DIY: "Stealth" fiberglass sub box.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Mar 9, 2007 | 11:18 PM
  #41  
TotallyFit's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 112
From: Surrey,Canada
5 Year Member
Yeah i could definately see W7's cracking an enclosure.Those things are ridiculous!
 
Old Mar 15, 2007 | 09:41 PM
  #42  
TotallyFit's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 112
From: Surrey,Canada
5 Year Member
Here are some more pictures from my box so far





This is my amazing architectual skills in action!I didnt have any dowels so i just used scrap pieces of wood.It was hella sturdy for sure!





Here is before i put resin all over the face of the box,just around the edges.



This is after the resin has dried on the face of the box.Well im off right now to go do some more glassing so ill post even more pics when i get them.
 
Old Mar 15, 2007 | 09:42 PM
  #43  
TotallyFit's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 112
From: Surrey,Canada
5 Year Member
my bad in the last pic the resin is still wet.But it's dry now.
 
Old Mar 17, 2007 | 12:42 AM
  #44  
ABuckFitty's Avatar
Member
5 Year Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 49
From: PacNW
Another use for duct tape! It's miracle stuff.

That's a really nice shape. I doubt you'll need but a single layer of bondo, just to get it smooth.
 
Old Mar 19, 2007 | 08:07 PM
  #45  
TotallyFit's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 112
From: Surrey,Canada
5 Year Member
Yeah im hoping i wont need more than a thin layer of bondo by the time im done sanding the fiberglass.Here are some more pics:



Here it is after one layer of chop mat and 2 layers of weave mat.I prefer weave mat now,it's much easier to work with,and you get a lot less air bubbles.Im going to put one more layer on the face, maybe 2 in some area's, on wednesday, because im not happy yet with the amount of flex in some places.



This is the back where the amps, capacitor, and crossover will be mounted.I put some glass layers there because fiberglass doesn't bond super amazing to mdf so to be safe i made it like one piece of fiberglass on the outside.Ill be doing the same inside as well.



Here is the part that will be touching the inside of the trunk area.You might notice i decided to be unlazy and i got all that tape off finally.I used a sanding disc on a grinding and BLAM! It came off super easy.It also smoothed everything out really well so i wont be needing bondo there.





These are some shots of it in the trunk so far.As you can see it is pretty big,but ill still have TONS of space.You may also notice that i have it somewhat facing the hatch.That's so i get the best sound quality.And it'll look awesome when someone opens the hatch and a big ol' type R is staring them right in the face.

That's it for now.I've added up what the supplies so far have cost me,and the total so far is,remembering that i still need some more mat and bondo and maybe another jug of resin AND carpet AND a sub grill AND the little speaker wire connection thing, $300!So yeah this is only the way to go if you really want something different.I've probably put 15 hours into this so far,maybe more,and i still have a bunch left to do.So this is gonna be expensive and take a heck of a lot of time.But it'll be worth it in the end.

Ill post more pics when i have more to show.
 
Old Mar 19, 2007 | 08:10 PM
  #46  
TotallyFit's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 112
From: Surrey,Canada
5 Year Member
Oh i meant to say i put a sanding wheel on a grinder.And also,doing all this MAKES A HUGE MESS!!!
 
Old Mar 19, 2007 | 10:19 PM
  #47  
ABuckFitty's Avatar
Member
5 Year Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 49
From: PacNW
The terminal cup shouldn't be more than $5. Parts-Express.com has a bunch

Search Results Page

I've even just drilled two holes and put bolts through them. And I've drilled a single hole and siliconed a wire in it. You don't need something fancy. You're mounting the amp to the box. It only has to stick out a foot or less to reach the terminal of the amp. Don't make it too difficult. Beside, the smaller the hole, the better.
 

Last edited by ABuckFitty; Mar 19, 2007 at 10:23 PM.
Old Mar 20, 2007 | 07:39 PM
  #48  
TotallyFit's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 112
From: Surrey,Canada
5 Year Member
Yeah that sounds like a better idea actually.I think ill just use silicone,or perhaps some other better sealant maybe.
 
Old Apr 13, 2007 | 10:14 PM
  #49  
tabo01's Avatar
New Member
5 Year Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 8
From: fort Lauderdael florida
I looked at that area, but I wanted to put the sub higher, so the storage pocket, (I tore the lip off) would work as a well for the magnet.
 
Old Apr 21, 2007 | 09:50 AM
  #50  
radareclipse's Avatar
Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 821
From: Nanuet, NY
5 Year Member
TotallyFit:
That's it for now.I've added up what the supplies so far have cost me,and the total so far is,remembering that i still need some more mat and bondo and maybe another jug of resin AND carpet AND a sub grill AND the little speaker wire connection thing, $300!So yeah this is only the way to go if you really want something different.I've probably put 15 hours into this so far,maybe more,and i still have a bunch left to do.So this is gonna be expensive and take a heck of a lot of time.But it'll be worth it in the end.


And some people think the JL Audio Stealthboxes at $650 or so are expensive.
$300 cost of materials, add a really good subwoofer, 15 hours and still more to do, deal with toxic hazardous materials.......
Nice job with the enclosure TFit! I am going to be doing one as well.


Would Fit members buy a Stealthbox for $650 or so?
 
Old Jul 1, 2007 | 04:19 PM
  #51  
timot_one's Avatar
Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 47
From: Boston, MA
All those different enclosures look pretty good. I usually use 2 trim rings so that my subs are flush mounted and look a little bit cleaner. Good job to all of you guys that posted pics of your sub enclosure builds.
 
Old Jan 17, 2009 | 07:05 PM
  #52  
OneStopCustoms's Avatar
Member
5 Year Member
iTrader: (15)
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 780
From: L.A., CA
beautiful thread, I want to do this but with a smaller 8" sub... I really want it super stealth. I have to put my traveling bag every weekend to go to work, so I need the space... 12 and 10's are to big for my bags.
 
Old Jan 18, 2009 | 01:44 PM
  #53  
timot_one's Avatar
Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 47
From: Boston, MA
You can definitely get good sound from an 8" driver. If space is your main concern, yet you want a larger driver, you may want to consider one of the JL Audio TW5's. They have a 13" driver that's 2.5" deep. Their 12" version is coming out this spring, and their 10" version will probably be out in the summer or fall.

One suggestion I'd make to the guys building their FG sub enclosures, is to not use bondo or extra chop mat to build up the outside of the enclosure. That's going to make more work for you in the end with all the additional sanding you need to do. It's better to make a mixture called "dog sh!t" or a "milkshake" instead. You can either use sawdust, thixotropic powder, bondo, or short hair filler (duraglass) to thicken up polyester or epoxy resin and then slop it all on the inside of the enclosure. That way you reinforce it with another layer that you don't need to sand smooth and you seal any leaks that you may have at the seams of your enclosure.
 
Old Jan 18, 2009 | 02:02 PM
  #54  
Kyle is raaddd's Avatar
Master FitFaker. CHEA!
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,317
From: Marble Falls, TX
wow this is really cool!!

i'm hoping to try something like this some day
 
Old Jan 18, 2009 | 08:39 PM
  #55  
iKONA636's Avatar
Banned
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 923
From: Chicago!
Thats a pretty good job and good DIY! Many rep points to you sir!
 
Old Jan 18, 2009 | 10:04 PM
  #56  
aenokea's Avatar
Member
5 Year Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 120
From: hawaii
I wish I had your fiberglassing skills. Do you keep the "dowels" in the enclosure after it hardens or do you cut those out? Ive never worked with fiberglass but this DIY has got me thinking...
 
Old Jan 19, 2009 | 12:59 AM
  #57  
OneStopCustoms's Avatar
Member
5 Year Member
iTrader: (15)
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 780
From: L.A., CA


have you guys ever seen this one? its being sold by jl audio?
 
Old Jan 19, 2009 | 01:22 AM
  #58  
OneStopCustoms's Avatar
Member
5 Year Member
iTrader: (15)
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 780
From: L.A., CA
nice build man, i was checking it out. Good job!!!

how are the races in adelaide going? i had a friend a while back that had a rotary mazda, 1970 something... fast as heck...

Originally Posted by Jester
Here is another option.

This is my setup that sits in the spare tyre rim.

Honda Jazz Club Australia :: View topic - 06 Sub Install

not sure if the US fits have a full size spare or a space saver??
 
Old Jan 20, 2009 | 11:23 PM
  #59  
*Garismatic*'s Avatar
Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 46
From: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Ok, that's a brilliant solution... I need one...
 
Old Jan 20, 2009 | 11:36 PM
  #60  
feared's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (12)
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,006
From: Pasadena, CA
5 Year Member
Originally Posted by timot_one
You can definitely get good sound from an 8" driver. If space is your main concern, yet you want a larger driver, you may want to consider one of the JL Audio TW5's. They have a 13" driver that's 2.5" deep. Their 12" version is coming out this spring, and their 10" version will probably be out in the summer or fall.

One suggestion I'd make to the guys building their FG sub enclosures, is to not use bondo or extra chop mat to build up the outside of the enclosure. That's going to make more work for you in the end with all the additional sanding you need to do. It's better to make a mixture called "dog sh!t" or a "milkshake" instead. You can either use sawdust, thixotropic powder, bondo, or short hair filler (duraglass) to thicken up polyester or epoxy resin and then slop it all on the inside of the enclosure. That way you reinforce it with another layer that you don't need to sand smooth and you seal any leaks that you may have at the seams of your enclosure.
JL is actually not going to come out with a 10" for the tw5 sub. But, i agree 100% with the milkshake recommendation.
 



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:37 PM.