quoted for truth

 

that's you man.It wont last long no matter how often you do it because of the messed up toe that's on your fit right now.

 

i agree with sam, you're just trying to reduce the symptoms of the problem, instead of fixing the problem. i, and i assume most others as well, prefer the wheels on my car to be pointed in the same direction.

 

and frankly, i dont care.

if the car drove around like crap due to the toe-in i would take care
of it, but loosing 1/32" per 4.5k miles, i really dont think that's going to
be an issue for me...especially on $50 tires.

 

It's not just in,it can be toe out also.O and it is driving like crap because you're dragging your tires instead of rolling on them.

that's my last post on this thread,like talking to a brick wall.

edit:
i just noticed the OP hasnt even posted again.Derr

 

Bit off topic heh? No point in posting b/c of how the thread went of on a tangent.

 

the dealer's measurement data shows that my rears are toe in.
the front was toe-out (i was able to feel it through the steering) so
they adjusted that.

rear toe-in gives better straightline stability and basically if it does
not affect thrust angle and or tracking to one side, (and if you can
live with the added tread wear) there's really no reason to fix it.

and you stating that my car drives like crap without even knowing
how it drives gives no credit for your comments. it is not you that
is talking to a brick wall, you just dont have the patience to listen.

my other comment was that the tread wear of 1/32" per 4500 miles
(this is the dealer measuring the tread during an oil change) is not
really anything that brings a red flag, especially on a tire that
only costs $50 to replace, 300AA+ treadwear rating. i rarely carry
any passengers in my car that weight that much anyway.

might want to open up your mind and listen to people too sometimes.
jk

 

oh and btw sam, those DF210's arent anywhere great as the EnduraTechs
im currently running... so your experince with crappy Fit driving may not
be from alignment, it might be from your car's setting. '

i know from experience.

think about it.

 

I don't post much, but from reading most of your posts, you always put the ENDURATECHs out there...It starting to become routine with your posts...And its making me taking your posts with a grain of salt. Even though you may have lots of knowledge and info to share, the way you promote EnduraTechs any chance you get is starting to become spammish IMO. Not trying to start a pissing match...I just want unbiased opinions to make better judgements as to mods to my car.

 

I didn't know that you actually got an alignment.That's why i said your car is probably riding like crap.I thought you said that you dont need an alignment and you'll just rotate tires every so often.

Everybody has that left rear toe in.It's just how it's desgined and it actually came from the factory that way but it becomes a larger amount when the car is dropped.And I'm in the same boat as you,I really dont feel like shimming it out because it wont be that noticeable with regular tire rotations.

Haha no,the ride is fine for what they are.It's just they look crappy

 

lol im a japanese spammish. shut up, if you had a
hot wife you'd be braggin' about her all the time.

 

What does a hot wife have anything to do with ENDURATECHs in the majority of your post

On a side note...post up pics of your wife

Sorry if I made you mad

 

hey i thought you weren't going to post any more? jk jk

doh... nono, each time i change heights or whenever i can feel the
numbish response coming though the steering i get an alignment.
also when i can feel the turning bias not to where i want the car
to be even after playing with various settings. no i dont race the car
but i enjoy vehicle dynamics while motoring every weekend mornings.

so im not shy to get alignments... (dont mean to sound like im
spammish for INIFINITI ) but when i was doing suspension work on
my G35C i took it in maybe 5-6 times to get the final setting i
wanted. each alignment cost $125... yah yah, some say wtf, lifetime
Firestone $150! or watever, but no, i wanted the special tech to do it
for me because the alignment was the way to tune the overall handling,
especially on a G35C where the suspension is extremely sensitive to
the car's dynamics.

ive had several BAD experience with some dumbass kid doing the
alignment at a tire shop and it turned out like shit. there's a lot to
be learned with lowering springs for those guys, like how it never
immediately settles back after adjustment even though the machine
tries to re-settle it by bumping the suspension. how to compensate
for that, etc. that just all comes with experience.

anyway, from there, i started playing around with tires sizes, wheel
offsets, swaybar settings, etc to get it to where it is today. it's a
nice handling car..pretty much at the limit of my definition of comfort
with handling (bench marked my buddy's 330ci).

if i pressure up my tires by 1psi more, i can feel it loosing comfort.
on a hot day i would purposely give it extra -1psi of margin cause
by the time im 1hr into the drive, sun comes out and the comfort
level starts to drop.

so, with previous experience with just playing around with my hobby
cars (there's been many cars) for street, i determined that my current
FitS's setting with this japanese brand silver colored coilover kit that
i will not name and the alignment setting it currently has along
with the no Progress rear swaybar setup, it runs VERY WELL for a daily
driver and some spirited runs on the weekends.

if i was to get greedy to fine tune my setting i would add a beefier
front swaybar, or play with the wheel offset... for example, the front
wheel offset to +45 (15x7 195/50) and rear +35 (15x7 195/50).
that would probably be very close to perfection on my current setup.

and while doing all of this, i also learned that you dont need the
bestest wheels and tires to achieve excellent response for street.
as much as it's complicated to setup a car for the track, it is very
tricky to setup a car for street given the various road conditions,
surfaces, temps, not being able to change settings(tires) on the fly,
etc. etc.

anyway, didn't mean to write a novel like ciburri.

 

if you wanted to brag about something you had that you really
liked, you would do the same (was the point). you should probably
just go back into hiding cause you make no sense. just
playin' with ya.

and no, im not mad. i got your point.

btw, my wife's cute and all but she's real busy with my kids lately...

 

I don't post much, because I try to find my answers through the search functions...so I basicly read most if not all past post jargin being said on this forum...especially about suspension... I'm considering the Enduratechs as well...just waiting for more products to present themselves and car warranty to expire...


I come here to procrastinate and make no sense when I should be making dollars developing websites lol Good Day Now...Back to the Bat Cave




I get your joke now Hahaha...sorry i feel slow today..must be the heat draining me out!!!

 

Hahaha damn this forum really got heated. Lol.

But I appreciate the arguments... gave me some info

I was extremely paranoid about my alignment after I dropped my car, but now I'm fine with it

 

haha kenchan, i thought you didn't get an alignment at all after your suspension changes too. it sounded to me like you just rotate your tires to even out the wear, guess i misunderstood. i also have the rear toe in like you guys and i agree that it's negligible and does not produce any harm. shims to adjust it are too ghetto in my opinion.

 

the fit's front camber is "not adjustable," though you can get a miniscule amount of play by applying pressure towards positive or negative camber when tightening those 2 bolts that attach to the strut. camber bolts are replacements for those 2 bolts that have a smaller diameter in the center section of the bolts, so that you can give even more positive and negative camber before you tighten the bolts. you can probably google this somewhere or wikipedia it actually and it will make more sense than my lame explanation (which may even be incorrect).

BUT, i can tell you that you do NOT require camber bolts on your lowered fit. the camber is not adjustable so will stay within specs unless you mess something up somehow. and yes, camber will affect tire wear but other settings such as toe will have a far greater impact.

 

really? but the alignment was only done on the factory components,
which means only the front toe is adjustable. the rest was left as-is
cause the dealer can't do anything about it (out of spec due to
aftermarket parts so they are not obligated to adjust).

the point is that even if the rest was left as-is, the car drives fine and
before shimming up the rear drums im just rotating the tires. is that
clear in wat im doing?

i donno saiko, it was easier while we were talking about you using
only a set of pliers to do your springs.

hahahaha. im starting to really like this forum (seriously).

 

honestly with only a -1.1 with a 1.8" drop just leave it as is unless
you want more camber for autox or some race application.

even with my current setup my inner front tire begins to lift while
turning hard and loose grip (open diff ) so -1.1 is fine for street.

i can't get grippier tires right now cause it will make the situation worse.
id need to play with the offsets or get a beefier front swaybar.