T1R Rear Disc Brake Conversion Problem!
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Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 191
From: Hawaii
T1R Rear Disc Brake Conversion Problem!
I have a problem. I developed a scraping sound, it sounded like something was scraping at a certain point on the rotor. I read on here that it could be the pad retaining clip. So after a while it got worse, so I decided to investigate. I found that the calipers were loose and I could shake them with my hand, it also made a strange squeaking sound when i did it. So I take off my rim, remove the caliper body, and find that the caliper bracket is loose and i can move it back and forth by quite a bit, maybe a eighth of an inch. I bust out my torque wrench and try to tighten it. seems like it wont go any tighter then 20-30 ftlbs so I keep going a bit more, then it gives. I thought I stripped it but instead I back it out and find this:
So I figure I got cheese sticks instead of bolts, I bought some new ones at the local hardware store rated at 8.8.
Now my question is, does anyone have their T1R instructions and can tell me what it says to torque these bolts down to? if possible can you scan it or something so I can get the other torque values for the other bolts too? they are all this brass color and I think Ill replace em all. Also, should I worry about stripping out the caliper bracket, its also that brass color, maybe its soft metal like the bolt too?
Also my E-brake doesn't work. it only stops my right rear, but is totally loose on my left rear. I tried adjusting at the center console but its tightened all the way already and no change. When I put my car down off the jacks and pull the ebrake, it has very little effect and my car is basically free to roll. When I press down on the brake pedal the rear brakes work fine though. when i pull the ebrake there is resistance on the lever and when i look at it at the caliper the line is moving and pulling.
any suggestions guys?
So I figure I got cheese sticks instead of bolts, I bought some new ones at the local hardware store rated at 8.8.
Now my question is, does anyone have their T1R instructions and can tell me what it says to torque these bolts down to? if possible can you scan it or something so I can get the other torque values for the other bolts too? they are all this brass color and I think Ill replace em all. Also, should I worry about stripping out the caliper bracket, its also that brass color, maybe its soft metal like the bolt too?
Also my E-brake doesn't work. it only stops my right rear, but is totally loose on my left rear. I tried adjusting at the center console but its tightened all the way already and no change. When I put my car down off the jacks and pull the ebrake, it has very little effect and my car is basically free to roll. When I press down on the brake pedal the rear brakes work fine though. when i pull the ebrake there is resistance on the lever and when i look at it at the caliper the line is moving and pulling.
any suggestions guys?
I have a problem. I developed a scraping sound, it sounded like something was scraping at a certain point on the rotor. I read on here that it could be the pad retaining clip. So after a while it got worse, so I decided to investigate. I found that the calipers were loose and I could shake them with my hand, it also made a strange squeaking sound when i did it. So I take off my rim, remove the caliper body, and find that the caliper bracket is loose and i can move it back and forth by quite a bit, maybe a eighth of an inch. I bust out my torque wrench and try to tighten it. seems like it wont go any tighter then 20-30 ftlbs so I keep going a bit more, then it gives. I thought I stripped it but instead I back it out and find this:
So I figure I got cheese sticks instead of bolts, I bought some new ones at the local hardware store rated at 8.8.
Now my question is, does anyone have their T1R instructions and can tell me what it says to torque these bolts down to? if possible can you scan it or something so I can get the other torque values for the other bolts too? they are all this brass color and I think Ill replace em all. Also, should I worry about stripping out the caliper bracket, its also that brass color, maybe its soft metal like the bolt too?
Also my E-brake doesn't work. it only stops my right rear, but is totally loose on my left rear. I tried adjusting at the center console but its tightened all the way already and no change. When I put my car down off the jacks and pull the ebrake, it has very little effect and my car is basically free to roll. When I press down on the brake pedal the rear brakes work fine though. when i pull the ebrake there is resistance on the lever and when i look at it at the caliper the line is moving and pulling.
any suggestions guys?
So I figure I got cheese sticks instead of bolts, I bought some new ones at the local hardware store rated at 8.8.
Now my question is, does anyone have their T1R instructions and can tell me what it says to torque these bolts down to? if possible can you scan it or something so I can get the other torque values for the other bolts too? they are all this brass color and I think Ill replace em all. Also, should I worry about stripping out the caliper bracket, its also that brass color, maybe its soft metal like the bolt too?
Also my E-brake doesn't work. it only stops my right rear, but is totally loose on my left rear. I tried adjusting at the center console but its tightened all the way already and no change. When I put my car down off the jacks and pull the ebrake, it has very little effect and my car is basically free to roll. When I press down on the brake pedal the rear brakes work fine though. when i pull the ebrake there is resistance on the lever and when i look at it at the caliper the line is moving and pulling.
any suggestions guys?
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 149
From: Negative Repland (exiled by fragile ego's and "can't handle the truth" babies) LMFAO ;P
e brake problems
i have the same e brake problems, well similar
right side locks, left side does not engage i.e. it seems that the right side is too short, i am using all the factory brackets
NEED HELP
right side locks, left side does not engage i.e. it seems that the right side is too short, i am using all the factory brackets
NEED HELP
is anyone else having issues? If so I might just upgrade my brake lines and stick to my drum brakes + e brake haha. My e brake has saved my life a few times so I rather not have anything that might mess with its performance.
I've got them on my car...no problems. Much better breaking! Much better feel...that is from the SS brake lines that comes with the kit...replaces the OEM lines, front and rear. Comes with E-brake cables too...needed to take off my original hangars of the cables to install the cables though.
Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 4,371
From: NC USA
I have a problem. I developed a scraping sound, it sounded like something was scraping at a certain point on the rotor. I read on here that it could be the pad retaining clip. So after a while it got worse, so I decided to investigate. I found that the calipers were loose and I could shake them with my hand, it also made a strange squeaking sound when i did it. So I take off my rim, remove the caliper body, and find that the caliper bracket is loose and i can move it back and forth by quite a bit, maybe a eighth of an inch. I bust out my torque wrench and try to tighten it. seems like it wont go any tighter then 20-30 ftlbs so I keep going a bit more, then it gives. I thought I stripped it but instead I back it out and find this:
So I figure I got cheese sticks instead of bolts, I bought some new ones at the local hardware store rated at 8.8.
Now my question is, does anyone have their T1R instructions and can tell me what it says to torque these bolts down to? if possible can you scan it or something so I can get the other torque values for the other bolts too? they are all this brass color and I think Ill replace em all. Also, should I worry about stripping out the caliper bracket, its also that brass color, maybe its soft metal like the bolt too?
Also my E-brake doesn't work. it only stops my right rear, but is totally loose on my left rear. I tried adjusting at the center console but its tightened all the way already and no change. When I put my car down off the jacks and pull the ebrake, it has very little effect and my car is basically free to roll. When I press down on the brake pedal the rear brakes work fine though. when i pull the ebrake there is resistance on the lever and when i look at it at the caliper the line is moving and pulling.
any suggestions guys?
So I figure I got cheese sticks instead of bolts, I bought some new ones at the local hardware store rated at 8.8.
Now my question is, does anyone have their T1R instructions and can tell me what it says to torque these bolts down to? if possible can you scan it or something so I can get the other torque values for the other bolts too? they are all this brass color and I think Ill replace em all. Also, should I worry about stripping out the caliper bracket, its also that brass color, maybe its soft metal like the bolt too?
Also my E-brake doesn't work. it only stops my right rear, but is totally loose on my left rear. I tried adjusting at the center console but its tightened all the way already and no change. When I put my car down off the jacks and pull the ebrake, it has very little effect and my car is basically free to roll. When I press down on the brake pedal the rear brakes work fine though. when i pull the ebrake there is resistance on the lever and when i look at it at the caliper the line is moving and pulling.
any suggestions guys?
Hands off this is tough but here goes:
Are you sure you have pads that are thick enough? This 10 mm almost looks like the caliper housing is being tightened directly against the back and of course there is no way they would do anything but break. Interesting that the eigth thread valley is the one that fractured.
And check the e-brake swivel. some of them will overtravel and 'lock up' usually in the applied position. Maybe they caliper is tightening against that. And this on both sides or just one?
When I got my T1R rear brake kit, the hat bushings were installed on the wrong side of the bracket...this made the caliper housing just touch the disc. The bushings come out very easily and I put them in from the other side…so the bushing is on the other side of the caliper bracket. Take a look in my profile, I have pictures of the disc brake installation. That could brake your bolts.
Hey Guys,
The 12mm bolts is torqued to 17 ft/lbs of torque.
As for the e-brake issue, have you tried to see if the cables are moving when you pull the e-brake? If not, to do this, you'll need to remove the centerconsole and have the cover on the cables clamped down before you apply the e-brake. If the cable on the inside is moving, then there shouldn't be any problems with the ebrake and some adjustments should be made. However, if the cable inside the cover is not moving, there may be a problem with the caliper since the ebrake isn't functioning properly.
If you have any other questions or concerns, please feel free to send me a PM.
Regards,
Jason @ AJR
The 12mm bolts is torqued to 17 ft/lbs of torque.
As for the e-brake issue, have you tried to see if the cables are moving when you pull the e-brake? If not, to do this, you'll need to remove the centerconsole and have the cover on the cables clamped down before you apply the e-brake. If the cable on the inside is moving, then there shouldn't be any problems with the ebrake and some adjustments should be made. However, if the cable inside the cover is not moving, there may be a problem with the caliper since the ebrake isn't functioning properly.
If you have any other questions or concerns, please feel free to send me a PM.
Regards,
Jason @ AJR
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