Hi guys. I know the rear wheels on the GD can't be adjusted but I just noticed my rear alignment looked super negative today. More negative than it usually is. I don't drive my car very hard, can the rear go negative by itself like that? Thanks!

 

here is my DIY on how to do it...
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/album.php?albumid=240

 

I guess u can't adjust toe with the bolts u're talking about right?

 

the red shims are what do the adjusting

 

Yeah I have the shims installed but I'm not too sure how that bolt works.......?

 

you get full adjustment...I got exactly the toe and camber I wanted.

 

Sorry I must be blind. Where did u install that bolt & can u explain how I can adjust camber & toe with that? TKS in advance!

 

Your axle stub is in 3D space. Depending on how your particular rear axle was manufactured, will determine your wheel orientation. For engineering purposes, that direction is defined in two planes (toe & camber) – so you can adjust it easier. But it is in reality only one plane, the one where the four bolts attach the axle stub to the axle. Specialty Products makes a very cool shim that you twist the top half in reference to the bottom half to compensate for the two planes with one shim assembly. But Honda allows for 2.5 to 0.5 positive camber on the Fit. Specialty Products shim only gives you a total of 1.5 degrees of adjustment and my particular car needed almost 2 degrees to get to +0.5 camber and +0.1 toe in. So, what I did was buy 5 shim sets and split one in half. Right off the bat, I oriented one half of shim to give me 0.75 negative camber. Once I got that in, I followed their instructions to adjust out the rear wheel alignment. I bought 5 shim sets because the alignment never comes out right. I needed to do the rear wheel alignment three times to get it right. Firs time to know where you are. The second to put in the shim set. And the third to fine tune it to where I wanted it.

Here is the one problem – once you put anything between the axle stub and the axle assembly, your four bolts that hold the axle stub to the axle are too short. Those bolts are grade 10 bolts and your local hardware store only caries grade 8 bolts. You will loose a wheel assembly if you use those grade 8 bolts. I could only find Allen head screws that were at least a grade 10. Allen heads are grade 12 screws. Those bolts need to be torqued to 80-in-lbs. Since the stock screws are flange bots, the replacement bolts needed 5-mm thick washers to distribute the load. I got them all from Granger or McMaster Carr, I don’t remember. The bolts come in a box of 10; you will have two left over.

My car handles so much better! My tire ware is dead even across the tread of the tire – so the tires last a lot longer. And I got about 0.5-mpg gas mileage improvement.

The 0.1 toe in gives you a nice solid feel in the transition phase of a corner – as you go from straight line to steady-state corner. If you have 0.1 toe out, you will get a loose rear end (over steer) in that transition phase.