extended wheel studs..
I believe if you go through Jegs website they tell you which are the stock length. That is where I got mine from and I don't remember having to figure out how long the stockers were. I only replaced the rears though....
ARP 100-7712 - ARP Wheel Studs - Overview - SummitRacing.com
ARP 100-7712 studs, same as Civic/Integra/gazillion other Hondas.
ARP 100-7712 studs, same as Civic/Integra/gazillion other Hondas.
ARP 100-7712 - ARP Wheel Studs - Overview - SummitRacing.com
ARP 100-7712 studs, same as Civic/Integra/gazillion other Hondas.
ARP 100-7712 studs, same as Civic/Integra/gazillion other Hondas.
I have these installed. been on them for about a year or so. perfect
Super Taikyu Chrome-moly Long Lug Nuts
Parts# RNW-01 Price $39.00
Lug nuts are made of Chromium molybdenum steel (chrome-moly).
A set comes with four nuts M12 x P1.5 17HEX.
The bolts are used in the Super Taikyu Series by the J’s S2000.
nice im looking for something similar to the kics lugs but not so damn expensive..
^The J's Super Taikyu lug nuts
As much as I support J's/Kics/etc. Get some Muteki's I know a bunch of people who track their cars HARD and have never had an issue with Muteki's, they just aren't as pretty or baller
As much as I support J's/Kics/etc. Get some Muteki's I know a bunch of people who track their cars HARD and have never had an issue with Muteki's, they just aren't as pretty or baller
basically i spend ungodly amounts of money on bullshit "baller" lugs to track on... aluminum and duraluminum are all GARBAGE! I tried rays, kicks, works, buddy club, blah blah
as soon as i said F aluminum, my problems were gone.
I got mutekis and they were GREAT! but the tool they came with broke for no reason.. and I didnt want to have to go through this.. ever..
So, I wanted a NON aluminum or anything with the f n word luminum in them and wanted it to be NON tool specific. something common. Not worried about theives on the track. fools got more money there than the track owners do.
So i met my desires to the T.
-Not aluminum
-Not Duraluminum
- JDM!
(lol)- Extended Open ended
- Standard/ Common size for tools
- HARD AS FCUK CONSTRUCTION!
- 60° taper
I justified the price due to the amounts Ive already wasted. "I want lugs that after im dead and gone, and my car has biodegraded, they will still be on this earth" -JCrim in voice of RAGE
On top of that, I also got some nylon coated 17mm 19mm 21mm sockets to keep the wheels minty and lugs. they worked out great and still are!
sockets in the back
what kind of problems did you have with aluminum/duraluminum?
well, the major part is them backing off. even at proper torque spec. they get hot on the track and when I would check torque spec on them after about 20min session, they were off enough to make me nervous. this also happened to another fellow track whore. he drove a k20/24 DC2 ITR using buddy club lugs. also, you have to be soooo gently with them not the mess them up like as though you are raising a newborn. also, after a few uses, they will naturally wear them selves. they naturally strip. they (race product lugs) are made for 1 purpose, light weight, not longevity in life.
well, the major part is them backing off. even at proper torque spec. they get hot on the track and when I would check torque spec on them after about 20min session, they were off enough to make me nervous. this also happened to another fellow track whore. he drove a k20/24 DC2 ITR using buddy club lugs. also, you have to be soooo gently with them not the mess them up like as though you are raising a newborn. also, after a few uses, they will naturally wear them selves. they naturally strip. they (race product lugs) are made for 1 purpose, light weight, not longevity in life.
ive had both of those issues with my lugs.. them coming loose and ive stripped 2 spare rays lugs. not really worth it for $150 IMO, this is why i want to replace them..