Hi all,

My 09 Fit is about to hit 45K miles and I would like to change the front pads.

While I do 99% of work myself, I've always had a helper or the book when doing brakes.

Anyone have any advice before dabbing into this?

Thanks very much.

 

I can't speak for the Fit specifically, since I've only had mine a week, but I've worked on brakes on a few other cars. If you have changed disc brake pads before, you probably shouldn't have too much trouble. Most disc systems are pretty similar. Just take your time and pay attention, and dont forget to support your calipers if it is the type where the piston needs to come off

 

Use OEM pads or most after market pads tend to squeel

 

True.

However, i'm usually the one just helping.

Yeah, I was planning on it. As I said before, I have 45K miles on the 09 and going on a road trip so I wanted to get this done before I leave.

I searched the forum, and it looks like the inside pad wears out much faster than the outside.

The brake pedal on my 2009 is softer or must be pressed in more before they ingauge at the same level as my 2010 Fit so I am hoping that replacing the pads/ brake fluid will solve this.

The brakes work perfect and make no noise or shaking of any kind, and I wouldn't even notice anything as far as pedal feel if it weren't that I also have a 2010 with less than half the miles.

I am just the type that does service early.

If it wasn't for the long trip, I would have most likely tackeled this on my own, but I am hoping someone has a service manual procedure they can share.

Maybe I can download the steps online at a pay per use website?

 

yup, longer pedal travel and low fluid level in the reservoir are signs that the pads are near the end of their life.

strictly speaking, just a pad change does not usually require bleeding, but if you never did a fluid flush at 30k/3yr you might be due for one anyway.

if you replace your pads and the pedal still feels quishy, then it's probably time for that too.

also, I believe you can get daily access to the Helm manuals online for about $10 a day. check out helminc.com and search for your specific model.

 

There's nothing to it.

lift car
take off wheel
remove caliper bolts
lift off caliper
replace pads
*use piston compressor to move piston (in case it moved out)
put caliper back on
attach bolts
mount wheels
lower car.

pretty much the same as any other car, no?

as for changing the brake fluid... there is no MM for brake fluid. The manual only says:

 

This.

There really is nothing to disc brakes. Almost as easy as an oil change.

I HATE DRUMS THOUGH.

 

Don't you grease the connecting bolt and back of the pads too? Can't remember the exact name... some silicone/dielectric grease?

 

I have always done the pedal bleeding when changing front pads. Have been at both ends at pedal and at the valve. This time I may attempt to gravity bleed. Not even sure how long that will take.

I knew there was I pay per use site (helminic). Thanks for the reminder.

Now I remember why I always call a buddy to help with these projects. Piston compressors. That's something I never owned. Maybe they will lend it to me or I can use vise grips or the like.

Yeah, if I remember from the last time I did brakes in 2008. It was blue or red.

 

you can borrow them from Autozone. put a deposit, use the tool, return it, get deposit back.

 

C clamps can get the job done too, thats what I've always used.

 

+1

I just did the front brakes rotors and pads sunday and a c clamp worked fine.

 

Good idea. I bought a clamp that should do the job. So long as it's not too dinky and works, will keep it for future use.


Looked for c clamps at discount auto this AM. They said that they were sold out.




Exuse the mess. Stopped at Honda after the parts store to pick up the rest of the items. I will most likely tackel this later today.

 

I do have 3 more questions for those in the know:


-When compressing the piston back into the caliper, the fluid usually rises a little in the resevor. Do I need to open the cap to the brake fluid resevor or leave it shut closed? I am not worried about over flow, but I dont want to get air into the system.


I bought a brake bleeding kit, but I only plan to use the hose for a cleaner brake bleeding experiance.


-How long does gravity bleeding take?


-Is one 12 oz bottle enough?

 

Finally got er done.

Removing this bolt (12mm I think), gave me direct access to the pads.







They just slide on and off very easily.



At 45k miles, my pads still had heaps of life left. I estimate that my highway miles and Florida's flat terrain would have allowed me around 15-20K more miles.





I did a full brake fluid bleeding and it took just 1 bottle of Honda Dot-3 fluid.

Thanks for the advise guys.

 

Only thing about DIY is you can't turn the rotors, measure thickness specs or check for warpage unless you have a fully decked out garage (all the tools you need). At 45k, you're pads and rotors should be fine under normal driving conditions.

Also at first instance, your pedal will bottom out then slowly go back to normal after a few pumps, as I remember.

Good pics!

 

Truth is, at $55 per rotor (Honda), I'd rather just replace them every second pad change then even bother with the turning.

 

thats what I do too. can get third party OEM stuff for even less too. heck partsgeek has a brembo OEM replacement for 40 bucks!

 

I hear 'ya! Wow, didn't think they were that inexpensive.