Here is my new year project. I installed a new set of disc(from 02 civic si hatchback) and new pads(90s integra gsr)



I used the T1R rear disc conversion kit since 08. The kit came with one bad caliper(forgot which side) and used up the pads on the other side within the first 10k miles.

Many miles after, it's time for the pads and might as well get a new disc. The kit came with a disc that's a 5 lug and redrill into 4x100. I found that the civic SI hatch has a 4 lug rear disc, so I ordered it.



There is a blue ring that came with the T1R kit to make the disc sits perfectly on the hub. But I needed to remove it to make the new disc to fit.



The new disc is slightly bigger than the old one and it's grinding on the caliper holder(Green Arrow). One defect on the original kit is that the screw(Top Red Arrow) is too long and touching the disc(Bottom Red Arrow), so I added additional washers to clear it.


Since the disc is slightly bigger and grinding the caliper holder, I used a grinder to shave out some of the metal.(Warning: Don't shave too much or you will shave into the lock pin area)


There is this metal thing(not sure what it is called) on the caliper body that is grinding with the disc also. I simply just took it out.


I spray painted with some leftover grey color to protect it from rusting.



Installed everything back and

 

Nicely done! If I ever end up greatly increasing the fits HP through FI, then I'll have to do a break change... till then I'll keep rocking drums for lighter weight

 

Cool! Is the civic's rear disc brake setup compatible with the fit for a conversion?

 

Hello Ruby,
Please kindly help me,
I want to ask you several questions,

First, what is the diameter of the Civic SI Rear Rotor that you use?
Second, Where do you get those nice looking Slotted and Drilled Rotor?
and how much?
Third, If you have time is it possible for you to measure the OFFSET
of your rotor, I mean the distance from the rotor surface to rotor hat (the part that make contact with your wheel).

The reason is because I just bought a JDM RS Rear Axle (GE) which have disk brake and I really like to change the standard rotor that came with
my rear axle with the rear rotor like yours.

But I worry that the size (diameter and offset) are not the same because
the part number for JDM RS Rear Rotor is NOT the same as the Civic SI rear rotor.

Thanks.

 

google autozone,com and search various years civics. autozone lists disc diameter and thickness on many common brands, so then you simply match it to the ones that might have came with your swap parts.

If no rotors came, you may have to go junkyard hopping and buy a bunch of different rotors from various vehicles.

If your junkyard is like one local to me, its a $1 warranty per day. So if parts dont fit, you are out $1 per part per day

 

Hello,
Thanks for your information.
The author of this thread also had reply to my PM, and he had the exact
same suggestion as yours, that is to go to Autozone.
I had go there and found out that the Civic SI rear disk brake is much larger (around 10in) vs my JDM RS Fit which only 9.5in in diameter.
The offset of Civic SI is also much deeper so I don't think I can use the Civic SI rotor for my conversion.

Thank You again.

 

Then look up rear disc rotors for 90-91 civic ex and see what you can find.


Honda has a knack for reusing old gen parts in new ways.

If offset is an issue, if it just needs to be pushed out there are good spacers that can be used. you can get them metric or SAE for a perfect fitment

EDIT If you can get me the diameter you need in metric (mm) I can help you source the diameter rotor across various cars

toyotas and mazdas and even nissan 4x100 lug rotors are worth looking into. They all tend to be in that 8-10 inch range

 

Hello,
Thanks for your offer to help me find a rotor.
but only when you have free time, I don't want to bother you if you are busy.

Here is the spec of my JDM RS rotor.
My Rear Brake Disk diameter is 238 or 239mm
My Rear Brake Initial Thickness is 9mm
Rotor Bore diameter is 61mm with PCD 4x100 of course.

The above spec is exactly like Civic EX just like you point out
but
There is a differences in Offset.,
The TOTAL Depth of Civic EX rotor is 48mm

while my rotor total depth is only 33 to 33.5mm ...
(offset 24.5mm and disk thickness 9mm)
I measure this myself using digital caliper so the number above is very precise.

if you know any other rotor that had the exact spec like mine,
please kindly let me know so I can find The PERFORMANCE version
of that rotor.

I understand that we can use spacer, the problem is my wheel at 18x7 offset 42 already rub before I rolled my fender, but now it do not rub anymore since I already rolled my fender,
still if we add more spacer, I think it will rub again especially I plan to lower my car in the near future... so I can not use spacer (behind the rotor)...

of course I also can use spacer on the caliper mounting point,
but this mean I had to take out the rear backing plate, and I prefer
to have that backing plate in place...
so the best thing is if we can find the same diameter, same offset rotor as my car...

Mugen actually sell a slotted rotor for my car at around $225 to $250 per pair, but with shipping cost from Japan, it will easily became a $500 plus pair , so if I can buy here (other brand) in US, it will be better.

Thanks again.

 

Try newer Mini rotors, 4x100 and big with plenty of aftermarket

 

Hi TPC,
at this moment in time,
I don't think I want to look for more complication for the rear brake until after I get my front big brake kit,
because a bigger rear rotor would mean I need to make a custom bracket
to extend the caliper out...
beside a too powerful rear brake before I put a big brake kit upfront
would be dangerous, not to mention I am still on my standard suspension...

so perhaps
after I get my suspension upgraded,
and after I put a big brake kit upfront,
then and only then I can start think of putting larger rear disk brake
(with same caliper though)...
but this mean a larger rear rotor would be still at least a year away

today, I have a lot of problem taking out the rubber brake line on
my new rear axle, I will post it later about this... on my other thread...

 

I suggest spacing the caliper bracket out. Get longer bolts that are at least grade 10 material for extra strength.

You should be able to space it out up to around an inch before durability STARTS to decrease

As long as you do NOT use a stack of washers. Find a cylinder of metal that hugs close to the bolt. Even better if you find them with small holes that you drill to the bolt size so you know its tight

Try searching hood spacer on ebay. The bolt size should be similar adn you can find then in metric and SAE (standard) sizes

Bolts, find a local hardware store

EDIT also, take a brake pad set and match them at a partsstore. Honda may have used the same pads as the CRZ's rear pads

 

Thanks for another great tips/idea,
but if I do the above, that mean I had to throw away the rear backing plate,
and I prefer not to do that...

 

The backing plate is not needed if you stay away from semi metallic brake pads. They cause a shitton of brake dust.

You can opt to make your own out of sheet metal and mount them using the bracket bolts

I think you are better off using the civic rotors and after finding out which pads you need, buying those and letting us know which pads you got (what vehicle sourced)

 

oh, maybe I use the wrong word.
What I mean by backing plate is not the backing plate behind the brake pad,
but I am talking about the big black round protector metal plate behind the rotor...
it is as big as the rotor itself and almost round except there is a cut
to allow for the caliper.

just like the one behind the front disk rotor.

even if I have the same rotor offset but larger diameter,
I will have to bend that plate a bit because it cover the outer diameter
of the rotor too.

but if deeper offset, I would have to get rid of that plate.

 

Be careful of the fasteners you use. While grade 10 bolts have greater tensile strength and hold tighter before stretch brake parts are subject to more torsion (turning) forces and a "high tensile strength" bolt may shatter under extreme torsion rather than bend a bit.

Fasteners used under torsion USUALLY are softer so they don't shatter and allow some movement and return after the torsion forces are removed. Just look at the stock caliper bracket bolts as an example.

 

ah, talking about bolts,
I have a question for your,
When I want to install my brake caliper again (after I paint it),
can I use the old bolts (torque to factory spec and added some loctite blue),
or do I need to buy NEW bolts ?

also the suspension bolt (bolt connecting the rear axle to chassis and rear axle to bottom of rear shocks absorber),
according to Honda service guide I had to buy a new one,
but why?
is it because they came with pre loctite?
if this is the only reason, I can apply loctite again my self...
or is it because if I reuse that suspension bolt again, it might break
because it had been tightened and then unbolted ?
do I really need to buy a new suspension bolt too?

Thanks

 

Yes I was talking about the rotor plates. Not the pad shims.

Like I said, they are not needed

Im talking from experience. I dont care what the internet says. Never had any issues, and 2 of my old cars had over 100k of my miles on these bolts


Most bolts and nuts I have to remove on older cars I tend to replace with new hardware. If I had to use a rust breaker like PB Blaster or liquid wrench to get it off, the threads are getting retapped clean and new hardware gets used.

There is like 4 factory nuts/bolts left on the camry's suspension. 21 years took its toll. The new suspension on that is D2 Racing coilovers. Much stiffer then factory stuff, so in theory much more stress. No issues so far at about 5k miles on them

 

No need for new bolts. Your car isnt old enough to get corroded really.

Torque to spec and you should be fine.

If you accidentally over torque, loosen and re tighten to spec, then re check after a few hundred miles of driving. If they feel loose, you torqued them to yield and have lost the ability to keep tight. New bolts are solution

EDIT make sure on any suspension bolts you tighten with load on them. example, when I installed my springs, I hand tightened the rear lower shock bolt so all slack/space was taken up, lowered car after job done, then tightened down. After letting suspension settle over several miles, I loosened bolt while car was on ground and retightened. Did the same thing after 1,000 miles on springs

 

Ok, I need a quick course from you again ...
so what did that backing plate main purpose in the first place..

is it to prevent stone from getting stuck on the caliper/rotor,
or is it act as a heat shield to prevent rotor heat from doing harm
to part of suspension?

seriously, I also don't see why they are needed cause
I think a small stone can still get stuck there and without the backing plate
the air flow will actually be better to cool the brakes...
so why every new car from factory came with those shield?
beside motorcycles disk brake do not came with those shield,
and they are more expose and they are fine...
please teach me on this one...
Thanks

 

They are mainly to direct the flow of cooler air over the rotor.