This is kind of a teaser post.... I'm tired.... my hands hurt.... but I did it. I had a set of rebranded coilovers from asia in one of the many available colors. Looked something like this



They failed within warranty. No surprise, the company did not stand by the product. I went above and beyond. Certified mail with claim forms. Actually had agreement at one point for replacement followed by a complete 180. It was stated that I did not know these were serviceable units and they wear out. Furthermore it was highly inferred that I must have installed them incorrectly, as commonly happens. They were so wrong!

This is dedicated to you!!! You know who you are, and your boss is going to be pissed when he sees what happens to sales. I told you it could have been easier. Oh so much easier, but as stated. I prefer it this way.

Before I go on. This is going to be a full how-to or write-up, HOWEVER, if you are still posting questions about coilovers this is not for you. Everyone else, have a back up plan . I am still dialing this thing in. I have ripped my suspension out of my car over a dozens times in 3 days. I'm almost under 30 mins for the front end, by myself with hand tools. If you mess up your stuff it's on you.

I decided to stuff the koni race insert into my now discontinued 50mm od threaded shock cartridge. It has a 44mm piston which is the minimum requirement for the insert at 43.5 mm. Well it fit!!

Part List "important stuff"

2- Koni 8610-1436Race "single adjustable race inserts"
2- Koni 8041-1191Sport "Saab 900 rear end see write-up on Fitfreak"
2- Swift Z60-228-040 "9 inch long 60mm ID, 4.0 kg/mm"
2- Swift Z60-178-050 "7 inch long 60mm ID, 5.0 kg/mm"
set of 4 NSK torrington thrust bearings p/n axk 6085 2as
2- strut mount bearings p/n 1j0412249 "euro make cars, got mine from a bmw site. both shipped in a day and a half for 27 bucks!

So, details aside for now look at these goodies!




Once disassembled we have these


Wish I could tell you the top gland nut was internally threaded to the housing. It's not, can't reuse it so just get it off any way you can. If you look on the bottom there is an allen key, remove it, drill it to release gas pressure and the units just collapses. Pop the snap rings out and you have



The insert fits right in. Photo bucket is killing me right now on the upload, but using the top snap ring to hold the insert is slid it through the bottom.

I made the right size spacer out of an internal part of the old unit to sandwich it between the two snap rings. Didn't hold it well enough so I made a jig and fiberglassed the unit snug from the bottom and used the spacer and snap ring. Very nice now!



Assemble it as you want. Don't just buy my springs, figure out what you want. I love my options, but I don't want low low. I can go low low, but I'm in the Northeast so my setup is more rally inspired. Behold.



Looks like I could use some badges Koni of holland!!

installed



You can toss the jack for weight saving too. Not only is it too low for normal jacks, but it goes too high for the stock jack before the wheel gets up.



Look at that drop oh yeah. I'll get more pics up tomorrow, and try to answer questions. I still have to rip it apart again to solve the sleeve for the upper mount to remove play at upper spring seat. Plus rip the rear hub to yank my shim before alignment, so I can reshim with new numbers. Not tomorrow though, I still have to study for exams.

Initial reactions...

WTF, my steering wheel is cocked almost 90 deg and it still handles better than any Honda I've driven, and I've had many.
No more cross wind attacks
I dont even want to put my front upper strut bar back on
flat in turns..... really really really flat.
The best suspension ever!!
The torrington bearings are a must. She turns so smooth now. Not a peep when I turn lock to lock in PARK!
No rubbing

Enjoy!

 

Subscribed!

Cool stuff OP

 

Here are the top bushing mounts. Ours is on the left, but the ID too small for Koni. On right, a BMW top mount. My problem is the lip on ours is missing from the BMW one.



But everything else is good.







Going out to tear down and figure out a sleeve, or straight up bearing assebmbly from NSK to go over shaft of insert to protect threads, allowing the upper spring seat to fit snug over top and bolt through new upper shock mount. Wish me luck.

Here are some quick and dirty picks of stance




Thanks to Evasive Motorsportsfor the springs. So quick, so nice!!! Fix the half sizes though sigh.

 

Wheels 15 x 6.5 +38 offset
tires 185/60 15's

 

Impressive stuff indeed...

 

So I managed to figure a spacer for the upper mount. Here are some picks of it, and the other side of the new upper mount bearing as well as the upper spring seat and such.




upper is the new one from lowes that I cut in half




which needed to go in here,


Not perfect but pretty snug


This was snug, with just enough lip to poke through upper seat and catch inside of bearing to remove all play. Got it cranked down nice now.

Let me upload some more pics. BRB

 

Thanks for the replies, sorry the pics are so big. Don't really post, only read.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ on the do research sig. Planning is everything!

 

Here are the bottom plates installed. I had to drill a relief hole to allow the resin to ooze out, then I plugged it and installed the snap ring.



A side by side comparison of the units.



These are mounted on top and bottom of both front springs. Needle thrust bearing aka torrington I believe. These make it so I can add pre-load to my springs by hand. Free rotation for the springs under load all day with these babies.



Overall opinion....... I love it. Totally amazing. Does not seem to matter what happens to the road under the vehicle. The wheel finally drops to compensate keeping the car flat. Wish I could have sprung for the double adjustable race inserts. Not that I feel it is off, but bump adjustment would actually have something to adjust.

Interesting side note. I have a dirt driveway, and I swear the car feels better on the dirt than the pavement. I actually speed up entering the driveway during the transition, which is a no-no for the woman's Rav4. Must find some dirt twisties! I still have to align it. Soon enough, I have a Firestone lifetime on my car.

 

Those are megans, but all of the damper cartridges in the coilovers are the same; made by BC Racing company out of Asia. 50mm unit has a 44mm piston and a thread pitch of 1.5. Been over a year since I researched, so I can't remember the 53mm units specs. The coilover companies are just mocking up some parts....a few of them are making the springs..... maybe. I do believe they pick the color... so basically,

ANY crapped out, or as is unit will do via classifieds or ebay nothing special just need the housing. Need to source lower brackets... thinking K Sport for that. Honestly, I should have re-used Honda's Upper Spring seat and picked up original diameter springs and a new lower seat would have done it.

 

Great work always like DIYs. On the ride quality do you attribute it more to the springs or the overall set up?

 

Tagging for interest and or additional updates. Nice work!

 

Sorry it's finals, been kinda fried. I have had swift springs before, and they definitely add to it. Wouldn't purchase a different brand spring ever. Their reputation precedes them, but I have to say I think it's a combination.

The torrington thrust bearings are a new addition for me, but they totally eliminate the rotational resistance inherent in the MacPherson design. Just think about clamping that spring in your hand and trying to turn it from one end. You are essentially trying to coil and uncoil the spring. Lock-to-lock steering at a dead stop that is whisper quiet. Don't even bother with the swift versions, just use these as the "spring seat bushing". The true diameter of the swifts won't allow for use of the original from the coilover. I'm talking the plastic piece "locking-perch to spring", and on top.

I went with 7 inch springs in the rear using adjustable perch, and with the Saab koni's sports for the rear I can remove springs by hand when both sides are jacked up. Not the greatest, but it means that 9 inchers would fit nicely, AND.... wait for it... Work in the front too! pick up a couple in series 3, 4, 5, 6, 7# springs and mix and match, and play around for the summer. As of right now, I dunno if I get this bitch airborne; there is a chance the springs might not be there when I land.

In defense, the koni's allow for full rear torsion beam movement. When I jack the rear I have an easy 6+ inches tire to wheel well. Not a problem when you jack one side for a spare, but for completeness GET longer springs for the rear.

I did manage to rip the rears apart, only to put back together because my passenger rear bearing was smoked!!!! Picked up the $hit GMB hub for 35. Ripped apart, shimmed, and back together. Plan to rebuild old hub with Timken bearing which has no part number listed for replacement anywhere but, on the Honda Hub I removed are the numbers (HUB227 or HU8227). I simply refuse to toss such an expensive and servicable item.

Picked up studs at Bernardi's for less than 2 bucks a piece plus some other little bitties. Honestly, any job should be backed up with a slew of new nuts, bolts, pins whatever. They really do not cost anything. And considering FROM Honda I got the front bearing for 55 shipped, I'll take a roughly $60 cost for a new OEM rear hub. I'll keep you posted on that.

As for these Koni race inserts on the front. They are an interesting beast. They don't extend by themselves. They appear to be a true Bump/Rebound in one knob, but anyone who is used to popping the hood and dialing in a few clicks beware. They are sensitive as all hell, and I am still working towards learning the appropriate skill/talent/intuition required to really listen to the cars needs.

I'll try to keep updated.

 

Before anyone asks.

LOWER THAN YOU CAN DRIVE IT!

 

If you need lower, get stiffer 8 inch springs.

 

Fantastic thread, I might have to try this...

 

I just ordered up 4 bearings and 8 washers myself to add to the coils I already have... Thanks for the real world input!

 

No doubt. you're gonna love them. These would have been great when we were.....and could yank our power steering systems, but I am sure they should make easier work for this electronic set-up.

Something kinda sparked me to put this one over the top. Been beating Honda's forever. Mostly EG platform.... loved and miss my 95 Delsol. 88 CRX and 86 CRX HF that got crazy mileage. 78 civic hatch.. one 95 coupe the rest hatchbacks....and I really said I was going to leave this one alone.

BUT SERIOUSLY, who designs a MacPherson race-inspired suspension in the front of the car; gets to the rear and says, "eff it, grab me the rear out of that mini-van over there".

Now...I might build another suspension with all the parts I have laying around to protect these and the car from the salt and snow after she's all dialed in. I tweak/drop/preload springs every chance I can. Do a damn good rough align just string lining square grid.

The guys at my local Firestone probably think I'm crazy, but it's all in a notebook for reference. They take great care of me though. I'll get some specs up in about 2k miles when I can cash in on my next lifetime. Try to plan major service/adjustments for then. Get some more pics soon. Sorry if it's long and kinda Its finals

 

Hey! What did you use to lubricate the needle thrust bearings? Also, I hear they have a tendency to get dirty, clog and die.... With your use have you noticed any changes or excessive dirt?

 

Get/make some sleeves to keep them cleaner...

 

I was looking into these https://www.gearheadsonline.ca/shop/...&cat=60&page=1

But I also found some DIY's on the Impreza forums and my I have access to a killer sowing machine