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TPMS Info

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  #21  
Old 06-05-2009, 09:58 AM
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Ive been running wheels without tmps sensor for a few months now. I dont really mind the TMPS light on the dash.
 
  #22  
Old 06-05-2009, 10:49 AM
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Thumbs up We don' need no stinkin' TPMS!

Yeah, I think that is the route that I will be going. I may stick a bit of electrical tape over the light so as not to distract me, but no way am I going to shell out the $$ to get the stupid TPMS system put back in.

Thanks for everyone's help!
 
  #23  
Old 08-04-2009, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Stadol
Here's my quick story, my rims and wheels were jacked about 2 weeks ago. I have some aftermarket (new) rims and wheels. Of course, my TPMS light is on, because the TPMS was not re-installed.

My question is this...do I even *need* the TPMS? It sounds like a big (expensive) hassle. I just need to get the TPMS light turned off on my dash, and I would be all set.

Advice?
I got chaeper sensors from Myers. You can see its website
http://www.myerstiresupply.com/shop/...ch=Yes&sppp=20

They seem aftermarket sensors which can replace OE sensors, and they are cheaper than $65. Maybe you can think about it!

Have anyone heard about orange sensors?
 
  #24  
Old 08-06-2009, 03:33 AM
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how many sets of tpms sensors can the ecu store? like if i wanted to run 2 diff sets of wheels at any given time, would the ecu be able to handle that?
 
  #25  
Old 08-12-2009, 05:35 PM
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I found this on a search for Honda tpms programmers.
Revolution Supply Co. - TPMS Sensors, Tools, & Accessories - (714) 891-0100
ATEC Quickset
They sell replacement Fit sensors so it must work. I wrote to them to make sure. I'll post their reply.
 
  #26  
Old 08-12-2009, 06:42 PM
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Good find - excellent prices as well!
 
  #27  
Old 08-12-2009, 07:42 PM
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No word from this Canada based company yet, but I read in an Accord forum that it works. May be I'll just chance it. Any one have experiences with these guys?
 
  #28  
Old 08-25-2009, 11:05 PM
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I found this for you winter tire guys.

http://www.orange-electronic.com/eng...uct/sub05.html
all you need is the codes from your original sensors.....
 
  #29  
Old 09-02-2009, 05:28 PM
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Has anyone found a way to dissable them yet?
I just got new wheels/tires and wasnt aware of the system until i pulled out of my garage and out of the sensor range....
All those aftermarket sensor sites are great but I dont care I want the light off. I dont want this system.
I can fix anything on a car sans an auto tranny do I really need a light to tell me my tire is flat or low...I can feel the difference of 5psi through the handling...
This device has a place in the world just not in my car....Any help there?

Oh and the system only senses 25% change thats 8psi roughly not even accurate enough in my opinion
 

Last edited by slimchriz; 09-02-2009 at 05:30 PM.
  #30  
Old 09-02-2009, 05:48 PM
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I heard of someone putting all four sensors in the spare. On a nissan forum someone made a sealed pvc canister with the sensors inside.
 
  #31  
Old 09-02-2009, 06:11 PM
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I read the spare trick but its not really feasable...
The pvc can is probably doable But I was looking for a more permanent solution... I been looking and looks like the infos just not out yet
 
  #32  
Old 09-09-2009, 01:07 PM
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Wheelbarrow tire.
 
  #33  
Old 09-09-2009, 05:19 PM
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Twenty minutes, one philips head screw-driver (magnetized, of course) and one inch of 3M electrical tape. Problem solved FTW I always have had a good tire gauge in the glovebox anyway....
 
  #34  
Old 09-09-2009, 09:51 PM
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It should be more like the Chevy system. Hit a button on the steering wheel, scroll through info display, and it will tell you how many pounds are in which tire. Kind of a pain at rotating time, but it can be dealt with. Even the Cobalt is like that.

The Honda system has saved a my twice, so it does work. First was a screw in the right rear a month ago, then 2 days ago I got a bolt in the left rear. Crappy thing about low profile tires, can't really feel it until you're going fast enough and have gone far enough to ruin the sidewalls. The light picked up both early enough to save.
 
  #35  
Old 02-12-2010, 02:13 PM
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I wonder if the TPMS reprogramming would be cheaper if you provide all the relevant numbers to the dealer for each of your tire sets... It would keep the dealer from having to remove the tires every time to check the serial numbers.
 
  #36  
Old 02-28-2010, 04:43 AM
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Honda's implementation of this system is ridiculous. I know this is a federally mandated safety feature, but the method Honda chose to implement it tastes more like a scam than a helpful feature. There just has to be some aftermarket company that will eventually sell an electronic tool that will read the sensor numbers and upload them to the computer. Otherwise, screw the Honda TPMS feature. If the computer can't store two sets of sensors in memory, or if Honda can't make it end-user manageable, then it's just not right.
 
  #37  
Old 03-21-2010, 07:13 PM
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tpms sucks

Maybe it is possible to just disable the light in the dash that produces the warning for tpms? Or pull the fuse for tpms!
 
  #38  
Old 03-21-2010, 08:08 PM
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I wouldn't suggest going that route. The computer is still going to record the codes itself. Leave it to your insurance company request the codes from a repair shop and then use that as reason to deny your claim.
 
  #39  
Old 03-21-2010, 11:27 PM
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As many of you know, my fit came with tpms wheels, so I was anxiously awaiting the day to switch my alloys to aftermarket .i really didnt wanna switch the sensors everytime i switched the wheels that tpms light kills me lol so i came up with this from another forum

so now I have the TPMS sensor light on the dash gone by creating a PVC pipe small enough to put behind the seat, under the car inside the frame, or pretty much anywhere. Pictures at bottom of post.

Total expense: $12.00.

Here's what I did:

Grocery List:
  • 3" PVC SCH.40 Pipe (about 4 to 4 1/2" in length)
  • Two (2) 3" PVC SCH.40 End Caps
  • One (1) Can Heavy Duty PVC Cement (glue) (green label - to contain pressure in tube)
  • One (1) Small Valve Stem (yes, like for a tire)
  • Optional: Bubble Wrap (to keep the sensors for clanging together)
Tools Needed:
  • Fine Sand Paper
  • Drill
  • Drill Bit (size can vary depending on Valve Stem width)
  • Jigsaw
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Steps:
  1. Take the jigsaw and cut the 3" pipe down to about 4 to 4 1/2" in length. It can be longer if you would like.
  2. Sand down the ends where you cut the pipe so they are smooth to allow for a good bond to the end caps.
  3. Take the cement (glue) applicator and rub it around one end of the pipe and the inside wall of the end cap.
  4. Quickly put the end cap on, pushing it as far as you can onto the pipe. The cement sets quickly, so work fast.
While the cement sets, get the sensors ready to be inserted into the pipe.
  1. Cut the bubble wrap into strips long enough and wide enough to wrap around each sensor like a diaper. (around the plastic part)
  2. Wrap the bubble wrap around the plastic part, then tape it so that it stays around the sensor.
  3. Repeat this for each sensor. Set them to the side.
Now let's do some drillin'!
  1. Take the valve stem, and hold it up to a drill bit to find the right size. What you want is a bit that will allow the valve stem to be pushed through the end cap from the inside out, but small enough to stop it from passing all the way through. (You may want it a little snug when passing through so it will be a little tight on the valve stem.)
  2. Drill the hole in the end cap.
  3. Take the sand paper and smooth down the inside and outside of the end cap where you drilled the hole. On my end caps, there was writing. I sanded that down also to give a smooth surface. (see picture)
  4. Push the valve stem through from the inside out with the smaller end facing up, away from the end cap.
  5. Once in, make sure you are unable to pull it through with a reasonable amount of force.
Now back to the pipe.
  1. Slide each sensor into the pipe with the stem pointing up. Once all four are in, you may have to jiggle it to get them to settle better.
  2. Optional: If you would like, you may put extra bubble wrap at the end to make them fit snug.
  3. Take the cement (glue) applicator and rub it around the end of the pipe and the inside wall of the last end cap.
  4. Quickly put the end cap on, pushing it as far as you can onto the pipe. The cement sets quickly, so work fast.
Your TPMS Sensor pressure pipe is now complete.
  1. ATTENTION!!! Allow the cement (glue) to set and dry over night before filling with air. ATTENTION!!!
  2. Fill the pipe with air. It should take one to three seconds to reach +-30 psi.
  3. Check the pressure with a tire gage. You should be able to "trick" the system with anywhere from 25 to 30 psi.
Congratulations, you're finished!!!

Warning: I am not responsible for any damage done to the sensors, your tools, your hands, or your brain (glue smell). I performed this modification for my own enjoyment and sanity.

Here are some pictures of the completed pipe. Enjoy!







 

Last edited by nyjdmevo; 03-21-2010 at 11:32 PM. Reason: edit
  #40  
Old 04-12-2011, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by jibberjabbs
I would like to hear if someone actually gets the pvc tube method to work because at least on the 2009+ fits the tpms sensors need to spin over 28MPH before they start to transmit.

My Idea is: If one was get a second set of sensors in your snow tires and a second TPMS reciever module matched to them. So instead of having to take the car to the dealer every season one could just swap the receiver module at the same time as the wheels. The module is pretty easy to get to under the dash. This is just a theory. I am not positive the sensor id's are stored in the receiver module.

Oh yea screw you Honda for putting us in this situation.
the PVC tube meathod does NOT work.

why not jsut get the TPMS programmer instead of goign through all that work? i know ive seen one around somewhere. i think it was $100-150.
 


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