Fit Modifications: Post Your Experience/Opinion!
good stuff,my buddy has one on his FA and a guy on here "jani88" has it on his fit
idk about the fit one but the civic one is pretty nice,good sound,quality piece.
idk about the fit one but the civic one is pretty nice,good sound,quality piece.
Lots of Rear Wheel Camber Adjustment
I wanted to setup my car with -.5 degree camber with 0 toe. Factory specs allow -.5 to -2.5! I installed three Specialty Products camber kits to accomplish this. This is the kit
http://www.spcalignment.com/PROD_DIR/SPC_PROD_SEARCH_DYN.cfm?cmd=Cam&cmd2=75800%281%29& cmd3=
But now that you’ve installed three shims behind the stub axle, the four bolts holding the stub axle are too short! My solution was to buy M12X1.25 Socket Cap Screws 40mm long from McMaster-Carr P/N 96144A297 and5mm thick washers from McMaster-Carr P/N 98040A107. This is what the stock bolts look like next to my solution.



I’ve split one two-piece shim kit into two separate shims. Each shim has a 0.75-degree taper to each shim half. I’ve installed it with the thick side up to reduce my starting camber by 0.75-degrees. Then I’ve measured the camber and toe and adjusted them per installation instructions. I’ve gotten my camber down to -0.5-degrees and a toe of 0-degrees with this process.



If the pictures dont post here, go to this link to see.
Picasa Web Albums - J J - Honda Fit Mods
http://www.spcalignment.com/PROD_DIR/SPC_PROD_SEARCH_DYN.cfm?cmd=Cam&cmd2=75800%281%29& cmd3=
But now that you’ve installed three shims behind the stub axle, the four bolts holding the stub axle are too short! My solution was to buy M12X1.25 Socket Cap Screws 40mm long from McMaster-Carr P/N 96144A297 and5mm thick washers from McMaster-Carr P/N 98040A107. This is what the stock bolts look like next to my solution.
I’ve split one two-piece shim kit into two separate shims. Each shim has a 0.75-degree taper to each shim half. I’ve installed it with the thick side up to reduce my starting camber by 0.75-degrees. Then I’ve measured the camber and toe and adjusted them per installation instructions. I’ve gotten my camber down to -0.5-degrees and a toe of 0-degrees with this process.
If the pictures dont post here, go to this link to see.
Picasa Web Albums - J J - Honda Fit Mods
Front Wheel Camber Adjustment
Specialty Products front wheel camber bolts work as advertised. They will adjust 1.75-degrees to either side for a total of 3.5-degree adjustment.
http://www.spcalignment.com/PROD_DIR/SPC_PROD_SEARCH_DYN.cfm?cmd=Cam&cmd2=81260&cmd3=
very good product.
I’ve got my front wheels adjusted to 0.1-degree negative camber (the tops of the wheels tilt outwards). This did two things for me…it lessened the slight over-steer in long hard corners and it wares the tires on the outside while the rears, set at 0.5-degree positive camber ware the tires on the inside.
http://www.spcalignment.com/PROD_DIR/SPC_PROD_SEARCH_DYN.cfm?cmd=Cam&cmd2=81260&cmd3=
very good product.
I’ve got my front wheels adjusted to 0.1-degree negative camber (the tops of the wheels tilt outwards). This did two things for me…it lessened the slight over-steer in long hard corners and it wares the tires on the outside while the rears, set at 0.5-degree positive camber ware the tires on the inside.
-Grounding kits did little if anything on my Fit (08 base AT!) as allready stated except causing a problem with the throttle body... (changed under warranty!)
-Nokya bulbs (80\100watts!) seems to put an excessive strain on my electrical circuit as i have no more functionning lamps on my car even with the bulbs changed... On a side note, they didn't cause nothing to malfunction either on my neons or 626 chronos and they light up like crazy (7000K color)!! I will change them for a set of HID 6000k anyway!!
-Syntectic oils FTW!! Car runs on AMSoil and it seems more silent and smooth then before with the factory ''Grinding stuff''... Will probably try Motul too just to see...
-I ordered Vogtland lowering springs! Had their ebay combo of Vogtland springs\KYB GR2 on my Mazda 626 and it still FTW!! I will update when they're gonna be installed!!
Marko!!
-Nokya bulbs (80\100watts!) seems to put an excessive strain on my electrical circuit as i have no more functionning lamps on my car even with the bulbs changed... On a side note, they didn't cause nothing to malfunction either on my neons or 626 chronos and they light up like crazy (7000K color)!! I will change them for a set of HID 6000k anyway!!
-Syntectic oils FTW!! Car runs on AMSoil and it seems more silent and smooth then before with the factory ''Grinding stuff''... Will probably try Motul too just to see...
-I ordered Vogtland lowering springs! Had their ebay combo of Vogtland springs\KYB GR2 on my Mazda 626 and it still FTW!! I will update when they're gonna be installed!!
Marko!!
any long tern experience with the Super-Sucka Intake?? Mine died a horrible death. Not much longevity... Bought K&N Performance Intake: sending it back since just changing the filter, for recharging that is, would take too long! The fit with the filter alone is ridiculously tight! Good company though: they were very apologetic and I am going to send the product back for a refund.
Last edited by docjim2; May 29, 2009 at 12:46 PM.
I have had my SS intake going on a year, no problem yet. I was wondering if the problem guys were having with it cracking at the neck had to do with not having it snugged on enough - it should not be touching and vibrating up against the battery. At any rate the reports in the Intake Thread are daunting and I think I'll remove it and look it over good soon.
snugged enough
Yeh I had recently taken it off and re-tightened the connector but could never get the bottom clamp that has an arm on it connected to the block to get real tight. I think the problem is the design and over long term, I bought it when it first came out> a year, the the plastic does not have longevity. While it worked it was a good product. Probably go with AEM next: aluminum... well AEM only makes the intake for the MT. Went with K&N: disappointed (see other post)
Last edited by docjim2; May 29, 2009 at 12:48 PM. Reason: the AEM part
Specialty Products front wheel camber bolts work as advertised. They will adjust 1.75-degrees to either side for a total of 3.5-degree adjustment.
http://www.spcalignment.com/PROD_DIR/SPC_PROD_SEARCH_DYN.cfm?cmd=Cam&cmd2=81260&cmd3=
very good product.
I’ve got my front wheels adjusted to 0.1-degree negative camber (the tops of the wheels tilt outwards). This did two things for me…it lessened the slight over-steer in long hard corners and it wares the tires on the outside while the rears, set at 0.5-degree positive camber ware the tires on the inside.
http://www.spcalignment.com/PROD_DIR/SPC_PROD_SEARCH_DYN.cfm?cmd=Cam&cmd2=81260&cmd3=
very good product.
I’ve got my front wheels adjusted to 0.1-degree negative camber (the tops of the wheels tilt outwards). This did two things for me…it lessened the slight over-steer in long hard corners and it wares the tires on the outside while the rears, set at 0.5-degree positive camber ware the tires on the inside.
....makes me (and hopefully others) go hmmmmmmm
I wanted to setup my car with -.5 degree camber with 0 toe. Factory specs allow -.5 to -2.5! I installed three Specialty Products camber kits to accomplish this. This is the kit
http://www.spcalignment.com/PROD_DIR/SPC_PROD_SEARCH_DYN.cfm?cmd=Cam&cmd2=75800%281%29& cmd3=
But now that you’ve installed three shims behind the stub axle, the four bolts holding the stub axle are too short! My solution was to buy M12X1.25 Socket Cap Screws 40mm long from McMaster-Carr P/N 96144A297 and5mm thick washers from McMaster-Carr P/N 98040A107. This is what the stock bolts look like next to my solution.



I’ve split one two-piece shim kit into two separate shims. Each shim has a 0.75-degree taper to each shim half. I’ve installed it with the thick side up to reduce my starting camber by 0.75-degrees. Then I’ve measured the camber and toe and adjusted them per installation instructions. I’ve gotten my camber down to -0.5-degrees and a toe of 0-degrees with this process.



If the pictures dont post here, go to this link to see.
Picasa Web Albums - J J - Honda Fit Mods
http://www.spcalignment.com/PROD_DIR/SPC_PROD_SEARCH_DYN.cfm?cmd=Cam&cmd2=75800%281%29& cmd3=
But now that you’ve installed three shims behind the stub axle, the four bolts holding the stub axle are too short! My solution was to buy M12X1.25 Socket Cap Screws 40mm long from McMaster-Carr P/N 96144A297 and5mm thick washers from McMaster-Carr P/N 98040A107. This is what the stock bolts look like next to my solution.
I’ve split one two-piece shim kit into two separate shims. Each shim has a 0.75-degree taper to each shim half. I’ve installed it with the thick side up to reduce my starting camber by 0.75-degrees. Then I’ve measured the camber and toe and adjusted them per installation instructions. I’ve gotten my camber down to -0.5-degrees and a toe of 0-degrees with this process.
If the pictures dont post here, go to this link to see.
Picasa Web Albums - J J - Honda Fit Mods
K&N Typhoon Intake
2. KN shortram typhoon intake - manxman - terrible design, most competitors significantly easier to install/ maintain
As a whole, I like the design. I also like the high location of the filter...it does not take one water when you go through a puddle…and the K&N filters are the best.
What did surprise me was the amount of intake noise that the stock filter box muffles. This intake system does not muffle it all. At WOT, the noise is significant. The work around is to not be at WOT in residential areas or next to cops.
got it backwards
yup...I got it backwards...that's why it took me 3 tries to get it right.
I returned mine
2. KN shortram typhoon intake - manxman - terrible design, most competitors significantly easier to install/ maintain
As a whole, I like the design. I also like the high location of the filter...it does not take one water when you go through a puddle…and the K&N filters are the best.
What did surprise me was the amount of intake noise that the stock filter box muffles. This intake system does not muffle it all. At WOT, the noise is significant. The work around is to not be at WOT in residential areas or next to cops.
As a whole, I like the design. I also like the high location of the filter...it does not take one water when you go through a puddle…and the K&N filters are the best.
What did surprise me was the amount of intake noise that the stock filter box muffles. This intake system does not muffle it all. At WOT, the noise is significant. The work around is to not be at WOT in residential areas or next to cops.
I went back to the tried and true plastic: SupaSucka. It is way easier to take the filter off with minimum of work. The design does leave a lot to be desired and I will always use K&N filters.

"A government big enough to give you everything is big enough to take everything you have..." T. Jefferson 1743-1826)
My SupaSucka cracked like that of many people, and I took Manxman's advice and got a PRM JetStream. The difference is truly amazing. Not only is the sound more robust but the seat-of-the pants feel is palpably more powerful. I swear the car has been faster right from the idle learn, and now is REALLY fun to drive every time I get the chance. The innovative filter cone (it sure looks like a K & N) intake is positioned right next to the duct in the fenderwell that lets ambient air in for the OEM intake. It has pressure under speed from the little vent next to the fog light, and the sound reverberates through the fenderwell. It's easy enough to pull the intake to clean the filter, which I just did for the first time. I thought the SS was cool when I installed it, but it's really a scam compared to the PRM that delivers a difference you can feel as well as hear. I'm pretty peeved with H-Fit. They wouldn't refund my money but wanted to replace it. Not in a million years, I'll take the bite, it's worth it.
Installed a electronic throttle controll and it makes a great! difference in all around performance!! Highly recomend 150.00 to your door twptrade.com gd3 4a harness and ge8 7a harness.
Enjoy!
Enjoy!
-Grounding kits did little if anything on my Fit (08 base AT!) as allready stated except causing a problem with the throttle body... (changed under warranty!)
-Nokya bulbs (80\100watts!) seems to put an excessive strain on my electrical circuit as i have no more functionning lamps on my car even with the bulbs changed... On a side note, they didn't cause nothing to malfunction either on my neons or 626 chronos and they light up like crazy (7000K color)!! I will change them for a set of HID 6000k anyway!!
-Syntectic oils FTW!! Car runs on AMSoil and it seems more silent and smooth then before with the factory ''Grinding stuff''... Will probably try Motul too just to see...
-I ordered Vogtland lowering springs! Had their ebay combo of Vogtland springs\KYB GR2 on my Mazda 626 and it still FTW!! I will update when they're gonna be installed!!
Marko!!
-Nokya bulbs (80\100watts!) seems to put an excessive strain on my electrical circuit as i have no more functionning lamps on my car even with the bulbs changed... On a side note, they didn't cause nothing to malfunction either on my neons or 626 chronos and they light up like crazy (7000K color)!! I will change them for a set of HID 6000k anyway!!
-Syntectic oils FTW!! Car runs on AMSoil and it seems more silent and smooth then before with the factory ''Grinding stuff''... Will probably try Motul too just to see...
-I ordered Vogtland lowering springs! Had their ebay combo of Vogtland springs\KYB GR2 on my Mazda 626 and it still FTW!! I will update when they're gonna be installed!!
Marko!!
The Progress RSB as allready stated is a FTW part except for the bolts supplied with it... Those mofos are so big i thing my car is half an inch higher because of them! I'm gonna replace them with better hardware next spring!
A set of Denso IK22 Spark plug is simply the best Bang for the Buck Ever on a 16Valves Fit!!
Fujita SRI provides a little more top end power and sounds good! As of throttle response, nothing to declare on mine!!
Marko!!



