That guy is tame as compared to the kind of folks that blog on social issues and politics at other websites where have been hanging out. Actually he is a very refreshing break from real hardcore people with fundamentalist beliefs and opinions. Opinions that can't be backed up by facts just invalidate a persons credibility and they are usually get banned on other sites with rules of protocol if they make personal insults. I have been reading post here since early summer of 2006 and have read a lot of your post. Thank You for the reply.

My experience
 

Intake, header, exhaust: do it! I did, and the difference is noticeable. MPG went up a little.

Lightweight rims: do it! I can't tell a MPG difference so far, but insufficient data right now. It is a bit quicker to start, and it stops better too. Steering is ever so light. Konig Heliums or Feathers are about $400 and weigh about 11-12 pounds. Any lighter and you're talking $800-1000.

Lightweight pulleys: ONLY if you're running a manual transmission. For some reason, it seems you lose power with an auto.

Carbon parts: don't try it! You'll spend $400-600 to save 5 or 10 pounds. The worst part is that it may crack. A guy pulled up next to me in a Civic Si running a K20z3 or 4, and his one piece of advice was not to buy carbon because the real carbon fiber parts crack too easily.

By the way, I have on occasion put 12 gallons in my tank. Nothing unusual about mine. But I don't anymore, for consistency. 11 gallons every time.

Seeing your fuel mileage numbers and those others have posted, I can see that I am either going to have to slow down or just be satisfied with what I am getting. I got 42 MPG one time and decided it was a fluke thing. That was the same as the best MPG average for My Goldwing also. Living in a rural area in Texas there are a lot of roads that are hard to resist exploiting the great handling that we have in our little poor mans Minis. My tire wear isn't all that great either, now that I think about it.

Say, what about those iridium plugs and the Next Level module? Where can I get those?

Hello Scratch, The spark plugs can be bought at most auto parts stores, I got mine at Auto Zone but I am not sure of the brand but I think they are Denzo. I got my Module online from www.nextlevelracing.com. The power improvement that they quote is an average taken from all of the cars that they make units for and that includes trucks and cars with V8s, so don't get excited by the twenty H.P. claim. The thing really works, and the low end is much stronger. They also claim that it will make automatic transmission cars shift faster. the Tri Phase is what I got and as cost conciious as I am, I feel that it was money well spent and surprisingly so does my wife. Oh it was $174.95 and you can't get more bang for the buck, without killing the fuel economy, though you are going to want to drive faster with it and that will. The worst mileage since break in has not been under 32MPG. and I was driving 85 to 100 MPH for 250 miles on one occasion.

I love to try and figure out what the engineers were thinking when they built a specific vehicle ...ie. the Fit. I like to try and find a way to improve their ideas. Many of them design a wonderful automobile right off the floor as far as fuel mileage, design, sportiness, and comfort. Honda and Toyota a two of the best imho. I added a short ram intake using parts from Autozone, costing about a total of $54 or close to it. Improved my mpg from 36 average, to 40-41 average with the same driving habits, and using the same grade of fuel, from the same pump. I did remove the muffler and had a larger 2.25" pipe bent and welded to the factory muffler flange, along with a 3" tip. Deeper tone, and not seriously loud. It has a nice "throaty" tone to it in all rpm ranges. The intake helped my mpg, but the exhaust mod didn't affect it at all. Alabama isn't strict about muffler laws due to hunting trucks being used as daily drivers with not catalytic converters, mufflers, and sometimes just a header only on many vehicles; so i didn't worry about, but check your regulations and ask around before doing such a thing. I still have the factory manifold and resonator up to the muffler flange on the car. So it's not like it's 100% "straight piped". Now, after reading this discussion, I hope I helped. The topic's changed a lot reading through here, and Sol can take a hike! By the way, if you search the DIY forum, you can find the intake mod and specific parts on there... I apologize for not having a quick reference handy. Can't seem to find time to stay on here much. Best of luck to all Fit owners and enthusiast. Please message me or something if you anyone has any other ideas to help mpg/power with mods.

I have done the same with my exhaust wit the same results as you also changed my aem cai int.to sri I think that a header and larger intermediate pipe will cause a loss in flow velocity at lower rpms and the fit is going to lose low end torque and will just start to benefit at 4000 to 4500 rpms. The drive by throttle allows intake velocity to stay at openings that produces torque through out the range, by gradually opening as rpms increase. I have thought getting the Megan down pipe to eliminate the converter but I am going to get some feedback from others that did before I even start socking away the money. You might take a look at what I posted right above you about the NLP modules. the thing is an easy install an allows you drive at lower rpm in taller gear and still accelerate with out having to downshift.

The reason a short ram intake will increase MPG is...

1-because of the hotter air temperatures that will help to change the fuel from fine mist to vapor, giving a better, more complete, combustion in the process...
2-the IAT sensor will see it (hotter air temp.) and the PCM will substract fuel...
3-the reduced pumping losses due to the less restrictive intake design will reduce the effort that the engine will have to do to breath...

It is good for fuel economy but a little less for performance...

Marko!!

My CAI did not perform as well as it does now since removing the lower tube and using the upper tube only..... You are sucking up the heat from the road, and hot Texas asphalt during the summer driving is very hot. The length of the tube soaks up more heat than a short one also..... O'Reilly's sells an inexpensive cloth element filter that funnels air into the intake tube and works like an velocity stack to increase air velocity and reduce turbulence. I don't think that under conditions except stop and go driving, you lose any performance, and I haven't noticed any difference even then..... It seems to me that the velocity gains supersede the lower temperature air being inducted at lesser velocity, if in fact it is lower. ... The major performance and mileage loss due to hotter air intake would be due to the ignition timing being retarded to prevent ping, and my mileage has increased by over 10%, so that certainly isn't a problem. :cool::eek:

Well given the lowered velocity of moving air to the sri due to increased surface area and space in the intake, and lowered fuel rate due to increased temperature entering the intake design... I haven't noticed any difference at all with the sri intake at lower rpms. But then again, we're talking about a L15A and not a 2.4 s2k engine here aren't we? :) Lol, I don't expect this thing to win a grand prix. I would love a good way to keep between 38-41 mpg, and increase low end torque and a little added power, but my car sees too many highway miles getting to and from work and going to church to be trying to hot rod it everywhere. Fuel economy is what I'm enjoying right now. Anything that won't severely subtract economy, but maybe get enough bang through it to give it a little more acceleration without breaking my bank??? Oh, and the IAT also has a range percentage it runs by, all vehicles after 1995 do. If the IAT senses heat and ramps down fuel rate via ECM (pardon the computer acronym difference. I work for Caterpillar, and it's called an ECM through them) and the O2 readings don't show a stoichiometric ratio coming through the exhaust, the ECM will sense a fault with the IAT being out of range, and disregard it, and run on the O2 readings and engine temp readings without a code being active to the check engine light. The ECMs on motor vehicles are factory programmed to monitor exhaust readings to lean/richen the air/fuel ratios as being more important than intake temperature. Polution control is what it's about. Hence why it's illegal to remove catalyctics from vehicles. People do anyway though.

I'm not trying to come off as a smart aleck or know-it-all by any means please. If I'm wrong, then by all means correct me. This is what I was taught at NADC. Also, T.C. I will look into the NLP module. Thank you all for the advice! Almost everyone here is far more helpful than most forums for just about anything. God Bless!

oh,i love riding.thanks.i justgot back fromriding.woot!