To K-swap or not?
#3
I think it's mostly for "extreme value." Yeah, its faster than a fat kid on a twinkie, but its really complex and hella expensive. Personally I chose boost instead, less in-depth (and I've wanted a turbo car since I was 4 lol). Up to you, really. You'd be one of the handful who have pulled it off!
#5
the thing about swapping to the K engines is that you're driving with a brand new honda engine. you're not forcing more power into it than it was made to have so you have 100% honda reliability and twice the power of a normal fit.
unless you're doing autox, I say DO IT!
unless you're doing autox, I say DO IT!
#6
do it for kicks and to get the oohs and aaahs, especially from people on this site....
but the most ecnomical way to power? no. not by a long shot.
and if you do f.i. right, it can be almost as reliable.
its not like you are boosting an old hyundai excel or something.
and it throws off the fits balance a lot more than k swaps into civics and integras does.
but the most ecnomical way to power? no. not by a long shot.
and if you do f.i. right, it can be almost as reliable.
its not like you are boosting an old hyundai excel or something.
and it throws off the fits balance a lot more than k swaps into civics and integras does.
#7
okay here's my take on the matter.
Swap in a K24 from an accord/CR-V. motor with RSX 5 speed transmission is around $1500. (instead of $5g's for a K20) then add the supercharger kit for it, and you spent the same as a K20 swap with around 250Whp and balls of torque.
Swap in a K24 from an accord/CR-V. motor with RSX 5 speed transmission is around $1500. (instead of $5g's for a K20) then add the supercharger kit for it, and you spent the same as a K20 swap with around 250Whp and balls of torque.
#12
you could always do an accord k24 or a rsx base engine.
i considered this for like five minutes, but the torque of forced induction would be on par if not better, and cheaper.
the k engines are not the heaviest things in the world, but they weight a good deal more.
i think in actuality its only like 40-50lbs....
but then again, people here make a big deal out of how heavy the stock wheels are so i guess 40-50lbs extra would be pretty bad, even despite the power offset.
i would mostly be worried about fitment. you could go the accord route and spend less, but shoving it in there is where you may encounter problems.
I will say this though. I have a friend of mine who has an 02 rsx base 5spd mani. his base k20 was shot because he drove it all dumb and crap, so he found a honda dealer that would give him a deal on an accord k24. he got it for like 900 bucks with low miles. he swapped it out, got kpro and that thing is a torque monster.
i personally think he's lowsy at shifting and he is making about 160 whp with no i/h/e, just the engine and tune, and with three of us in the car, he ran a low 8 second 0-60, for very cheap. not to bad imo, and minus 200lbs on a fit would make this even sweeter. but the balance would be all off.
i considered this for like five minutes, but the torque of forced induction would be on par if not better, and cheaper.
the k engines are not the heaviest things in the world, but they weight a good deal more.
i think in actuality its only like 40-50lbs....
but then again, people here make a big deal out of how heavy the stock wheels are so i guess 40-50lbs extra would be pretty bad, even despite the power offset.
i would mostly be worried about fitment. you could go the accord route and spend less, but shoving it in there is where you may encounter problems.
I will say this though. I have a friend of mine who has an 02 rsx base 5spd mani. his base k20 was shot because he drove it all dumb and crap, so he found a honda dealer that would give him a deal on an accord k24. he got it for like 900 bucks with low miles. he swapped it out, got kpro and that thing is a torque monster.
i personally think he's lowsy at shifting and he is making about 160 whp with no i/h/e, just the engine and tune, and with three of us in the car, he ran a low 8 second 0-60, for very cheap. not to bad imo, and minus 200lbs on a fit would make this even sweeter. but the balance would be all off.
#13
If you consider going k24 I'd take the older k24a1 from the crv or the k24a2 from the tsx. iirc if you plan to change to a k20a2 or z3 head there will be piston to valve contact with the a4 blocks.
#14
with the $3500 you save doing a K24A1 swap instead of K20A2 (RSX-S) it leaves you enough money leftover to supercharge the K24 and put you miles ahead of the K20A2. And swap over boosting the L15 IMO is the better route even though it's heavier it's near stock HP so stock relibility. thicker axles, and easier access to a beefy clutch.
#16
with the $3500 you save doing a K24A1 swap instead of K20A2 (RSX-S) it leaves you enough money leftover to supercharge the K24 and put you miles ahead of the K20A2. And swap over boosting the L15 IMO is the better route even though it's heavier it's near stock HP so stock relibility. thicker axles, and easier access to a beefy clutch.
stock reliability only if its in the original car that engine was intended for.
k series into anything other than a car already that was equipped with one is no b series swap job (and even those have issues.)
if skunk 2 can beat on thier l15 14lbs boosted fit, i'm pretty sure less psi f.i. applications will be a ok.
and no loss of balance either.
#17
Great info people, just the stuff I needed. I think I'll head in the
K-swap direction.
Anyone in the Chicago-land area that has a
garage that I could rent?
Oh, I'd hate to change the subject but has anyone heard how the
engine holds up to NOS?
K-swap direction.
Anyone in the Chicago-land area that has a
garage that I could rent?
Oh, I'd hate to change the subject but has anyone heard how the
engine holds up to NOS?
Last edited by Chitownfit; 09-06-2008 at 11:22 PM.
#18
a K24A1 can easily handle a 75 shot of NITROUS OXIDE...
stop saying NOS.. it's a brand name not an actual product.