real temperature gauge - Unofficial Honda FIT Forums

real temperature gauge

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Old 08-12-2018, 06:35 PM
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real temperature gauge

I have a '13 base model, automatic, no navigation system. It has the usual dummy light temperature indicator, but I would really like to see what the actual engine temp is. There is obviously a sending unit to tell the computer what the temp is. Is there any way to modify the dashboard display to show temp? Has anyone installed a 3rd party temp gauge?
 
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Old 08-12-2018, 06:58 PM
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The common solution is to get an Ultragauge or Scangauge which connects to the OBDII port and provides a lot of data. The other way to do it is an OBDII wifi or bluetooth device and use the Torque app on a smartphone.
 
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Old 08-12-2018, 10:27 PM
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Thanks Alfa38! This is just what I was looking for. (My last car was a 1991 Toyota--I'm not used to all the 'new' electronics)
 
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Old 08-13-2018, 12:38 PM
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I've owned both the ultra gauge and scan gauge. you sound like a good candidate for the ultragauge, as it lets you play with display sizes (IE, if you want, you can have a GIANT TEMP GAUGE and call it a day), whereas with the scangauge youre stuck with 4 equal sized gauges. also, it helps that its 2x cheaper

ultragauge - starts at $79.59:
UltraGauge, OBD II Scan Tool & Information Center




In my example, I left the default gauges as-is. Water temps on the bottom left. In your case, you can make the water gauge occupy one of the top larger slots (like put in it place of INST MPG)
 
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Old 08-16-2018, 12:49 PM
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With a bluetooth or usb OBD2 device and Torque on your cell phone you should be able to see the catalytic converter temperature as well as the coolant temperature! However some of the OBD2 devices keep drawing current after the car is shut off so you should make sure you get one that automatically shuts off. These are a bit more expensive though, like maybe $40 US instead of just $10. You could try and remember to pull the device out of the OBD2 port before leaving the car but I think that would cause a bit too much wear and tear on the connectors. I am thinking OBD2 Y-connector, with a switch spliced in, in series with the wire that supplies power.
 
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