2012 AT, Wife was pulling out into traffic with the kid when suddenly zero power from engine to wheels. Car won't move in D or R, and putting it back into P makes a grinding. There is also a repeated clunk as the trans turns over. I was able to come help, not do any in depth checking, but the axles are still connected and there no fluid leaks. Jeremy Clarkson description of a breakdown fits here: "First running, and then .. stop."

Towed to a local shop tonight. Couldn't go to my preferred because it's after hours Sunday and the gate situation at any shop is unclear. Will have to call tomorrow and see what's up. Hopefully they are competent.

Am thinking most likely replace with a used transmission. The new and rebuilt that a dealer would sell me on is far too costly for a car we only intended to keep a few more years.

Long been suspicious of this trans, I've complained many times of a small surge + falloff in power when you get on the gas. I had it checked by a shop last year. And I've changed the fluid regularly at 25k plus had the fluid tested by Blackstone. Look how far it has got me, only to 60k :P

Wife a bit traumatized, loved the car but wants to fix and then sell. Doesn't feel comfy driving it now. Wants a new Civic Hatch...

 

Update: nope, I snapped an axle.
You know, those axles I was supposed to go get replaced under recall! ...:/

 

I've been dreading this. I should get mine done ASAP.

 

Sorry to read this. I did the recall on my '09 Fit Sport as soon as I could, just to be safe. Hopefully, Honda will take care of you.

 

GrE8, yes, you should! Learn from my fail. I would inspect the axles every 6mo and I always conclude the minimal rust would be fine "until i get to the dealer next". But it turns out, they rust within the boot due to I assume water infiltration. I did not think they would fail at 60k miles but apparently they CAN and DO. So you may as well do it the easy way and not the hard+dangerous way like me ... although you're in sacramento, a place where it's usually dry.

There was no doubt Honda would replace axles free of charge. However, shop #1 I guess left a light on and drained the battery. I had the dealer replace it for $220. Finding this battery <$200 at short notice is hard and I wanted to get home. A fair trade.

Dealer tried to sell me a staggering $2000 in other services. These included a sway bar link beginning to fail (legit, so thank you, but $600!) and a "immediate attention" item of a cracked fog light (excuse me? that part is totally optional. also $600).

I did check on valve clearance adjustment for future reference. Also $600 - am sensing a pattern here - but that's actually a fair price IMO for the effort. A little less if they don't do plugs but you should definitely replace them.


Will leave you guys with a quote from Jayvonn the service advisor. "When I see a Fit coming in on a Tow, I can guess, it's gonna be axles ... They're pretty reliable cars, otherwise."

 

Is the 2013 AT model also involved in the recall? I checked my VIN number but do not see any pending recall regarding the axle. I only remember having done the airbag recall so far.

 

The axle recall targeted Fits registered in salty states (e.g., northeast, upper midwest), so TX may not have been included.

 

You're right. Texas is not in the list of the salt belt states so that'd explain why my VIN didn't show this recall.

 

You sure it wasn't the sway bar bushings that needed to be replaced? That is a lot more involved then the links, but still not a $600 job imho. Not sure what the shop rate is locally.

Also they likely have to flag lights w/ issues as urgent, as it's a safety item?

 

Yes, it's the bushings that will fail. They are held on with six rivets and one of the six failed. I think they replace the whole link as it's only $25 or something. But in my mind that's an hour for both sides for a mechanic. I don't know the shop rate either -- probably $300 vs $150 independent -- and if you ask my for $609 they ought to be replacing six sway bar links.

This is this dealer's special scam approach though. It's nice to get a free inspection but they suggest repairs and hope some percent of customers bite. If they would just charge a fair price I'd actually give them money but as it is I hate them.

Another suggestion literally EVERY TIME I GO is brake fluid. $220. You know how much a brake fluid moisture tester is on Amazon? 10$ and you can know before you go that the shop is lying.

Contrast this to my independent shop. The lot is dirty and there's patriotic nonsense everywhere. But when I got front brakes, I asked to replace the rears as long as they were checking them, and she said, "we'll replace them if they're worn, but we're not gonna waste your money if we don't have to". The brake job was still $400, but I'm happy to pay for someone who cares about the car, and not only getting their hands on my dollars.

 

We are talking about two different things. The bushings hold the bar in place, and isolate the bar from the mounts. The links connect the control arms to the sway bar. If the mounting bushings are bad it is much more involved then the links.

 

everyone input your VIN to see if there are any active recalls on your Fits !

HONDA RECALLS

 

Sorry Jons, you are right. The bit that's failing is the rivets that hold the bar end links to the suspension. There are six rivets each side, and one rivet has failed. My dad had a sway bar disconnect on his Fit recently so I guess it's not uncommon. There is a kind of rubber bushing there but I was using the word wrong. I was not talking about the bushings that secure the bar to the subframe. Only the end links will need replaced if I have it done.

 

Buy Moogs end links on Rock Auto. They are like 10 $ each and beefier than the OE Honda.

Really worth replacing. Super easy job, takes like 10 minutes each side if you are slow.

 

On a new england car? I doubt it!
This dude had shall we say substantially more trouble. Stripped Allen socket, had to saw off the 14 mm bolt.

 

I'm in Canada. I know about rust. But I' ve replaced end links multiple times without any problem. You just have to do it the right way, with the right tools.

Don't use an allen key when you remove them. Use a vise grip on the back where there is the boot. And an impact wrench on the nut. For the new ones, since they are new, it is super easy.
I also suggest Moog end links as the construction is really better, and there is no allen socket. Much easier to install and remove.