High beams work, regular beams don't.
#1
High beams work, regular beams don't.
I think this is a switch problem.
Irregardless (I'll see a mechanic. I think my warranty barely expired...), do you think a feasible short term solution should be tilting the high beams to aim lower? I was wondering if there is long term damage in driving with high beams.
Irregardless (I'll see a mechanic. I think my warranty barely expired...), do you think a feasible short term solution should be tilting the high beams to aim lower? I was wondering if there is long term damage in driving with high beams.
#2
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Whoa!! My Fit has been doing this in the morning. I thought it was my HID's, which I also thought was weird. Ive had no HID troubles since I bought them. Out of no where they arent firing up in the morning. If I try them later on they do.
Driving with high beams can kill the bulbs prematurely since theyre are higher wattage. Higher wattage means more heat.
Driving with high beams can kill the bulbs prematurely since theyre are higher wattage. Higher wattage means more heat.
#3
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Get any info on this? Mine did it again a few mornings ago and did it mid day today. So I know its not my HID's or weather related.
I kept switching it off and on real fast. The last time I turned it real hard and they came on.
Its really bothering me. So far is hasnt happened at night or anything. You know, when I really need the headlights.
Im worried about taking it in. I have the Indp. fog mod and HID's.
I kept switching it off and on real fast. The last time I turned it real hard and they came on.
Its really bothering me. So far is hasnt happened at night or anything. You know, when I really need the headlights.
Im worried about taking it in. I have the Indp. fog mod and HID's.
#7
Yea I have. not burnt. Also, remember that the high beams work.
Unless you meant fuse is the fuse for the switch, I don't know where that is. I looked at the fit's two fuse diagrams and saw nothing. My guess is still that "twist" thingy lever that turns the light on is damaged.
Unless you meant fuse is the fuse for the switch, I don't know where that is. I looked at the fit's two fuse diagrams and saw nothing. My guess is still that "twist" thingy lever that turns the light on is damaged.
#9
Sounds like a relay
How are the headlight relays set up on this vehicle? (I haven't had a reason to look so I don't know.) If there are separate relays for high and low beams, they might be the same part just different wiring. Try switching the two and see if you get the lows back.
#10
The fuses for the right and left headlights have a relay next to them however it is not labeled in the fuse box diagram in the user manual. I suspect this to be the cause of it. I don't think it is the steering column lever ($90) for the lights cause the little green light on the instrument panel illuminates, if anyone know what this part is called please ley me know. It is right next to the fuses for the headlamps. If I fix it today I will let you guys know as well.
#11
okay, I got some new silverstars and checked the old bulbs out from my car and it looked like one bulb was bad and the other was good. The bulbs have two filiments and if one is bad it will prevent the other bulb from illuminating kind of like a warning for you to get your lightbulb fixed instead of drive around with a burned out bulb, Anyways, it works now.
#12
Sounds like a poor design, i.e., if one bulb burns out, then you have to choose from 2 unsafe situations until the bulb is replaced.....either drive without low beams(which is plain crazy, although I've seen some drivers actually do this), or with high beams(blinds oncoming drivers).
#13
I agree it does seem like a bad design. I want to add that I just visibly chekced the bulbs they very well could have both been bad but one seemed to have the entire filament intact whereas the other had an obvious burned out filament. So my advise to anyone with this problem is to first change the bulbs out.
#14
Due respect, but I think it REAL UNLIKELY that one bulb failing keeps the other from working. These ain't old time Christmas Tree lights, wired in series.
I'd guess either both bulbs were bad, or there is a relay issue. I have had experiences with bulbs that looked okay but were in fact burned out; may be the issue. I replaced the bulbs in my bride's VW within one week of each other.
I would like to know, for sure, if the lights are indeed wired thru' relays rather than the steering column.
Moon
I'd guess either both bulbs were bad, or there is a relay issue. I have had experiences with bulbs that looked okay but were in fact burned out; may be the issue. I replaced the bulbs in my bride's VW within one week of each other.
I would like to know, for sure, if the lights are indeed wired thru' relays rather than the steering column.
Moon
#15
I agree I just didn't see any physical damage to the bulbs element and they both did not work. I just thought it was unlikely for both bulbs to quit working at precisely the same time. Thats all. They may have both been bad but now they work. Take care.
#18
I think this is a switch problem.
Irregardless (I'll see a mechanic. I think my warranty barely expired...), do you think a feasible short term solution should be tilting the high beams to aim lower? I was wondering if there is long term damage in driving with high beams.
Irregardless (I'll see a mechanic. I think my warranty barely expired...), do you think a feasible short term solution should be tilting the high beams to aim lower? I was wondering if there is long term damage in driving with high beams.
1. Check fusible links in wiring. Consult shop manual.
2. use VOM to determine if current is actually getting to the low beam bulb; if not, look for wiring disconnect or bad switch which you check next with the vom resistance scale.
3. Check for grounds from headlights on low beam by putting VOM in series with the wiring connector. If the bulb doesn't light up the ground side wiring has a disconnect.
If that doesn't find the problem you need serious help.
PS VOM is volt-ohm-meter, one of the first tools you should own, available for as little as $10 at RS or hardware store.
#19
Mine, either. I adjusted my headlights the other day and unplugged them one at a time. No problems there. Looks like I need to re-adjust my fogs, though.
Big difference with just a few turns of the screwdriver, I'll tell you. I wish I'd done it some time back. Would have saved me having to spend all that money for the front under-body panels when I hit that tire tread out on I-65 one morning.
EDIT: To me, it sounds more like a switch problem than any thing else. I remember when my Ford Escort's headlights suddenly stopped working intermittently. Turns out that Ford, in it's haste to build a 'GT' version of the Escort, didn't take into account that the system would pull more amps with the fog lights on. The fogs drew power through the hi/low/turn signal switch (headlight on/off was on the dash). When I finally found out about the cause through a TSB (they never did recall them), the hi/low/turn signal switch harness had melted at the switch and the wiring was FUBAR. Ended up having to buy a number of small electrical parts and got a copy of the TSB from the parts guy at a local Ford dealership. Cost was something like $40, but still cheaper than the $200+ that Ford wanted to fix their screwup.
Big difference with just a few turns of the screwdriver, I'll tell you. I wish I'd done it some time back. Would have saved me having to spend all that money for the front under-body panels when I hit that tire tread out on I-65 one morning.
EDIT: To me, it sounds more like a switch problem than any thing else. I remember when my Ford Escort's headlights suddenly stopped working intermittently. Turns out that Ford, in it's haste to build a 'GT' version of the Escort, didn't take into account that the system would pull more amps with the fog lights on. The fogs drew power through the hi/low/turn signal switch (headlight on/off was on the dash). When I finally found out about the cause through a TSB (they never did recall them), the hi/low/turn signal switch harness had melted at the switch and the wiring was FUBAR. Ended up having to buy a number of small electrical parts and got a copy of the TSB from the parts guy at a local Ford dealership. Cost was something like $40, but still cheaper than the $200+ that Ford wanted to fix their screwup.
Last edited by E = Mc2; 05-19-2009 at 11:43 AM.