I don't know if this topic has been covered before, but I tried searching and didn't turn up with anything that answered my question. Perhaps I didn't use the right key words.

I was wondering to those who are consistently getting 36+ MPG how did you break in your engine when it was new? Did you break it in according to the owner's manual or did you use some other technique?
I know that getting good mileage has a lot to do with how you drive and the condition of your car, but I am sure that there is also some sort of affect on the MPG of the car based on how you broke it in.

Sorry if this is asking too much, but can those who are planning on replying please state whether the car is AT or MT.

 

yeah i get 36+ mpg regularly, and i don't go out of my way to get high mpgs, just drive normally and smoothly. i didn't do any special break-in techniques; i just followed the conservative, typical suggestion of taking it easy for the first 500 or 600 miles or whatever it was.

edit: oops, car is MT

 

I've been taking it easy for the first 8,000 miles or so.
I shift between 2 and 2.5k, only going above 2.5k when I'm cruising at 60mph on the freeway, or if accelerating on an uphill onramp. Manual transmission, obviously.
I got 37 mpg with my first tank, 36 with my second, 39 with the third, and over 40 mpg for every tank after that.

--Barry, 08 FS MT BBP

 

I followed the owners manual recommendations.

 

Ditto! Honda knows best end of conversation!

 

I admit I didn't even read the manual.

I just drove my new Fit the same way I drive it now: Shift between 2000 and 3000 rpm, take it easy on the throttle and try to avoid accelerating and braking too hard. I get 36 mpg around city..my daily commute is only 3.5 miles one way.

 

I drove my car like I drove every other car prior to hypermiling - in a 'spirited' manner. I would usually shift around 5,000 RPM... a 'low shift' would be around 4,000 RPM. I did my first oil change at 1,000 miles.

BTW - I have a manual transmission.

 

i just drove easily for the first 900 miles or so. as soon as i was over
1k i took it to redline many times.

 

Manual Transmission.
First tank: 36.44 MPG.
Last tank: 36.97 MPG.
Average: 36.90 MPG (12,238 miles).
Lowest mileage: 29.19
highest mileage: 43.98.

I followed the driver's manual totally for the break in.

No hypermiling on my part, but simple rules for good mileage:
1. Keep freeway speed around 70 MPH.
2. no jack rabbit starts.
3. never be in a hurry to get to a red light.
Enjoy the ride

 

I think the first oil change was at like 4400miles b/c the oil was dirty.

I used a non synthetic oil(Penzoil) for the first change(oil change number 1).

The next oil change(~5500 miles on Penzoil, the oil was really dirty - Penzoil FTL!) I used synthetic Mobil one(oil change number 2).

The third oil change(used the mobile 1 syn for about 5500miles as well because I wasn't trusting the 10k thing yet) I used Mobil 1 synthetic 15K oil but I only got like 9600K out of it because it was really dirty and I believe some oil was consumed.

Then I went back to Mobil 1 synthetic.

The last oil change(oil currently in my car) is Mobile 1 synthetic 0w20 for fuel economy. I am at 30% oil life and have about 9k on this oil. I plan on changing this oil next weekend and using mobile 1 synthetic 0w20 again.

 

There is ZERO data to suggest any Fit is better in anyway after the so called "break-in" some say exists. I build race engines that make +1000hp and like them the Fit engine uses a moly top ring. The ring set is broke in after the 1st 5 min or so. The balance of the eng has nothing that can cause friction that will change the FE after the 1st 10min. In fact Honda coats the piston Skirt with Moly so that area is protected. That's the reason the 1st change has HIGH moly content that baffles most oil SME's

It was very important the ring package on mine had to be installed and work right. The only thing you will have to be watchfully of, is if your Fit uses oil as they say the can. Honda says some can use a qt of oil or more between oil changes. To me that's BS and I'd be PO if mine did that. It's also because the factor eng build had an issue. Oil ring, 2nd ring, hone, rig gap......

I was lucky as mine uses little to no oil between changes.

Shawn on the 0W-xxx or as opposed to the 5W-xxx oil Honda recommends. Did you make any attempt to measure the FE gains when you changed? I know from watching you on here, at the same time you had made many changes all at the same time, but wanted to ask. I think I mentioned that by buddy is a Master Honda Tech and he told be straight up, you need to stay with the 5W oil because 0W is too thin. From what I have seen, it's a risk with no measurable rewards???

 

The first number (the "X"w) number is the viscosity or "thickness" when the oil is cold. The second number is the viscosity when the oil is at operating temperature.

a 0w oil will have good flow when the oil is still cold, this is ideal because your oil will get pumping fast right away, where as a 15w oil will be very thick and wont flow as well when its cold, and requires a longer warm up time before it can start protecting your engine well.

The second number as i said, is the viscosity at operating temp. a 0w-20 oil will be more watery at op temp, yet have really good flow. A 0w-50 oil will be much thicker at op temp, and have less flow, but this is better for older and big v8-v10 engines and diesels that get much hotter than our little 1.5L Honda's.

The more flow you get the better, to a point, you wouldn't use water as lubrication, but A lack of flow with oil too thick will starve your engine and cause a mess of problems... such as putting 0w-40 in our engines would create flow problems.

5w-20 is recommended in the manual for year round protection. People who live in colder climates such as northern states and Canada will probably prefer to have 0w-20. This isn't necessary in southern states because its much warmer all year even at night and wont need to worry about cold start ups. Anyone who lives above the snow belt will appreciate a 0w during the winter, though the 0w probably isn't necessary during the summer. Purchasing a performance oil filter such as a K&N will help improve flow as well. This is beneficial.

 

If that was all true (for our Fit's), why is it that it's not advised by Honda?

 

Its advertised to use 5w-20 (a general number meant for the entire USA to use safely).. people who wake up to -10 degree winters can probably benefit from a 0w (during the winter).. Such as January - February in maine



Dont forget owners manuals are also designed to compete with the amount of percieved maintenance vs other cars. Some car manuals also say to change at 10k mile intervals, those are just there to make the car appear easier to maintain (and are probably fine in general but long term effects are never completely documented.. ex: real world engine wear rates). Stick to 3-6k depending on driving style.. closer to 3k for dense city dwellers, 5-6k for those who put on mostly highway.

 

Chart clearly show -20F and below. Just wanted to know your basis for 2nd guessing the Honda recommendations...

Carry on.

 

Not seconds guessing them i'm sure its fine all the time, but during those cold months i get roughtly 10% better flow (and protection) when my car is first started, and the same protection when its at operating temp... Since most people change their oil twice a year, it wouldnt make sense to print in a manual that 2 months out of the year it would be better to use a 0w (would also make the car appear to be more maintenance intensive).. I'm offering whats considered good advice.

Anyways, back to the thread topic, break in, if anyone hasnt read the manual yet, honda also says to take it easy at first



Just wondering what your basis is for going against honda recomendations?

 

I took it pretty easy on my car for the first 2000km with low revs and warming it up. Never looked in the manual, but with a new engine I wanted to make sure everything was seating nicely.

Returns great mileage every time... I certainly don't deserve it with the way I drive

(MT for the record)

 

Paul and others, I cannot say that I have noticed a difference with the 0w-20 oil. I have been trying/learning lots of different techniques(I would like to say I am getting better at them), hell I am trying one now(shifting at 2k when I can).

Tell you what, this coming up oil change I will switch back to 5w-20(hell, it is cheaper too) and see if there is a difference(if the FE goes down some one owes me an oil change!).

The main reason I switched is because people on cleanmpg swear by it and say they have seen anywhere from 10-15% increase in FE. I have to say I was skeptical of the 0w-20 oil since I poured it out the bottle, shit runs like water! I checked the oil the other day and it is getting dirty but no consumption was noted(better than the 15k mobile 1 syn).

 

[quote=pb and h;384930]
The main reason I switched is because people on cleanmpg swear by it and say they have seen anywhere from 10-15% increase in FE. ote]

0w-20 and 5w-20 have the same viscosity at operating temperature, 0w is merely thinner (more runny) when it is cold. It wouldn't make any sense to get better economy out of either when both are rated 20 at operating temp.

 

I broke mine in by driving it like a madman, but never going over 6k rpms.


I just got a 37mpg tank 100% city.