Oil Life indicator reliable??
Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 56
From: Princeton, Tx
someone mentioned checking the color and consistancy of the oil. Well... used oil is black, and close to opaque, and new oil is a bit more brownish and clearer in color, so when you're checking your oil( which you should do every time you fill up), if it starts looking too black on the dipstick, it's time to change it.
My father used to drive a Ford diesel truck, and he was told to change the oil when it gets to be a quart low, not at any specific mileage. But please keep in mind that a diesel truck, with an engine that big, uses a lot more oil than a small car
My father used to drive a Ford diesel truck, and he was told to change the oil when it gets to be a quart low, not at any specific mileage. But please keep in mind that a diesel truck, with an engine that big, uses a lot more oil than a small car
Someone that spends his life on FitFreak.net
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,110
From: Ottawa, Ontario
Originally Posted by FondaFit
I can't remember what she bought, but a lady I talked to at a service station told me she was advised to replace the whole transmission at 30,000 miles rather than attempting to flush it out!
Someone that Posts too much
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 711
From: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Originally Posted by subtle
Not true at all. Too frequent oil changes can damage your catalytic converter permanently. Have fun replacing one of those for $200+ while still spending more money on redundant oil changes.
I love the justification people constantly come up with for wasting resources.
What are you checking an oil's color for anyhow? To see if it's doing its job?
I love the justification people constantly come up with for wasting resources.
What are you checking an oil's color for anyhow? To see if it's doing its job?
-joe
Someone that spends his life on FitFreak.net
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,110
From: Ottawa, Ontario
Originally Posted by subtle
For MT cars, assuming you are using Honda MTF, I would suggest changing the fluid every 10k miles. Honda's MTF has been known to shear under extreme conditions and, in order to protect the tranny, I would play it safe and change it every 3 oil changes or so. I wouldn't worry so much about ATF...every 30k miles or whatever the manual calls for.
I'll be following the service manual recommendations for all my fluids.
Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 606
From: Palm Bay, FL
Is there any argument that when the oil is dark it needs changing? My certified Honda mechanic would agree with that. I had a Honda Civic wagon for 10 years and a Honda Accord wagon for 11, and there was no doubt in my mind that the oil was light in color when recently changed, and got gradually darker as the due date approached (or in one case, when I got careless) or past due.
Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 606
From: Palm Bay, FL
Originally Posted by subtle
The advice you got on the oil changes is spot on. Honda's company history shows that Honda cares more about Quality and Reliability than Marketing. The top ten Honda executives are mostly Engineers, and they run the company as an Engineering firm. Their vehicles are some of the most reliable cars in the world for a reason. They built their name after a long time and would not destroy their good name by saving customers a few bucks.
In regards to what the "lady at the service station" told you...that is absolute lunacy. Just another typical, shady ass, corrupt service station trying to make $1k+ on a job.
For MT cars, assuming you are using Honda MTF, I would suggest changing the fluid every 10k miles. Honda's MTF has been known to shear under extreme conditions and, in order to protect the tranny, I would play it safe and change it every 3 oil changes or so. I wouldn't worry so much about ATF...every 30k miles or whatever the manual calls for.
In regards to what the "lady at the service station" told you...that is absolute lunacy. Just another typical, shady ass, corrupt service station trying to make $1k+ on a job.
For MT cars, assuming you are using Honda MTF, I would suggest changing the fluid every 10k miles. Honda's MTF has been known to shear under extreme conditions and, in order to protect the tranny, I would play it safe and change it every 3 oil changes or so. I wouldn't worry so much about ATF...every 30k miles or whatever the manual calls for.
I have an AT Fit, and a long combined highway/multiple traffic light daily commute. I want my beloved Fit to last a very long time, without being wasteful and throwing away perfectly good tranny fluid & oil.
New Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 5
From: SALINAS
I registered here just because this thread bugged me so much.
This engine oil life meter thing is absurd. How does it measure remaining oil life?
What sensors gather what information and how is oil life calculated? really sounds like snake oil to me. Here is why.
Say for argument that its a function of mileage, or a calculation of average RPM and temperature. That does not and can not account for the initial quality of oil variable. Nor can it account the capacity of the oil filter to filter abrasive particulate matter. Those variables have to be estimations making this Meter little more than a guess.
Scenario 1. Dino oil, cheap oem or third party filter. Change oil with in its performance envelope standard 3k-5k miles. You get great engine life and profit.
Scenario 2. Use high quality fully synthetic oil and a top high capacity filter with synthetic filter medium and opt for a Extended OCI. Change oil every 10k-15k miles. Change oil within its performance envelope and get great engine life and profit.
Both of these scenarios are perfectly reasonable and equally effective. Cost is nearly a wash.
Unless the Honda sensor actually measures viscosity and ability to lubricate then it does not support either scenario. It supports maintenance dollars in the dealer repair bays.
I am annoyed because when I bought my fit two weeks ago. This was one of two lies the Salesman told me. I specifically asked him how this meter worked and he assured me it actually measured viscosity. In the back of my mind I knew it was BS when he said it.
I am on the original Oil and will change soon. I fully intend to prove my notion that this meter is useless. I will use a top quality synthetic and Filter. Now we all KNOW that combination will last longer than Dino-oil and a OEM filter. I bet the worthless meter can not tell the difference.
How do you think it will turn out?
This engine oil life meter thing is absurd. How does it measure remaining oil life?
What sensors gather what information and how is oil life calculated? really sounds like snake oil to me. Here is why.
Say for argument that its a function of mileage, or a calculation of average RPM and temperature. That does not and can not account for the initial quality of oil variable. Nor can it account the capacity of the oil filter to filter abrasive particulate matter. Those variables have to be estimations making this Meter little more than a guess.
Scenario 1. Dino oil, cheap oem or third party filter. Change oil with in its performance envelope standard 3k-5k miles. You get great engine life and profit.
Scenario 2. Use high quality fully synthetic oil and a top high capacity filter with synthetic filter medium and opt for a Extended OCI. Change oil every 10k-15k miles. Change oil within its performance envelope and get great engine life and profit.
Both of these scenarios are perfectly reasonable and equally effective. Cost is nearly a wash.
Unless the Honda sensor actually measures viscosity and ability to lubricate then it does not support either scenario. It supports maintenance dollars in the dealer repair bays.
I am annoyed because when I bought my fit two weeks ago. This was one of two lies the Salesman told me. I specifically asked him how this meter worked and he assured me it actually measured viscosity. In the back of my mind I knew it was BS when he said it.
I am on the original Oil and will change soon. I fully intend to prove my notion that this meter is useless. I will use a top quality synthetic and Filter. Now we all KNOW that combination will last longer than Dino-oil and a OEM filter. I bet the worthless meter can not tell the difference.
How do you think it will turn out?
Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,500
From: New York
A seven year old thread bugged you that much?
My father is 92 years old and I've never changed his oil.
It's your car, do what you want. But the MM is there because everybody's driving conditions are different and the MM is probably WAY, way better at estimating oil change needs than simply counting mileage. If you want to go longer because you're using 'better' oil and a fancier filter, go right ahead. Just note that when it comes time to sell your car, you'll be selling a car that wasn't maintained according to what Honda says, if you go longer between changes because you're using syn oil.
My father is 92 years old and I've never changed his oil.
It's your car, do what you want. But the MM is there because everybody's driving conditions are different and the MM is probably WAY, way better at estimating oil change needs than simply counting mileage. If you want to go longer because you're using 'better' oil and a fancier filter, go right ahead. Just note that when it comes time to sell your car, you'll be selling a car that wasn't maintained according to what Honda says, if you go longer between changes because you're using syn oil.
New Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 5
From: SALINAS
A seven year old thread bugged you that much?
My father is 92 years old and I've never changed his oil.
It's your car, do what you want. But the MM is there because everybody's driving conditions are different and the MM is probably WAY, way better at estimating oil change needs than simply counting mileage. If you want to go longer because you're using 'better' oil and a fancier filter, go right ahead. Just note that when it comes time to sell your car, you'll be selling a car that wasn't maintained according to what Honda says, if you go longer between changes because you're using syn oil.
My father is 92 years old and I've never changed his oil.
It's your car, do what you want. But the MM is there because everybody's driving conditions are different and the MM is probably WAY, way better at estimating oil change needs than simply counting mileage. If you want to go longer because you're using 'better' oil and a fancier filter, go right ahead. Just note that when it comes time to sell your car, you'll be selling a car that wasn't maintained according to what Honda says, if you go longer between changes because you're using syn oil.
Yeah this 7 year old thread comes up at the top when you search for accuracy of honda oil change indicator.
You claim its better but can you say how? How does it actually measure oil life? Or is it just a guess based on average condition and the properties of rated Dino-oil? I just do not understand how this meter works better than just using normal OCI?
But again... I will prove it one way or another. If the meter is actually able to sense oil break down then it will report longer life from Synthetic oil. Thats a fact. If it is just guesses based on averages then this meter is no more useful than the approximations on oil bottles or in car manuals.
This meter was sold to me as a device that told me what the condition of MY oil was. Thats seems impossible.
Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,500
From: New York
It's not impossible to measure various actual oil conditions but it's not how the MM works.
Honda doesn't reveal exactly what goes into the calculation but the various factors thought to be part of the formula include cold engine revolutions, warm engine revolutions, cold engine starts, warm engine starts, perhaps engine revolutions at high rpm, maybe outside temperature...
Presumably that's better than just miles driven, since 10,000 miles driven at a constant speed on a highway are less destructive than fewer miles of typical city driving (as well as a lot fewer rpm since highway driving is mostly in the highest gear).
Just using two factors- oil type and miles driven- is probably not the best method when the car's got a computer that has a lot more data than you do. After all, the car knows exactly how many times you've started the car, how much of your driving has been at various rpm, etc.
Honda doesn't reveal exactly what goes into the calculation but the various factors thought to be part of the formula include cold engine revolutions, warm engine revolutions, cold engine starts, warm engine starts, perhaps engine revolutions at high rpm, maybe outside temperature...
Presumably that's better than just miles driven, since 10,000 miles driven at a constant speed on a highway are less destructive than fewer miles of typical city driving (as well as a lot fewer rpm since highway driving is mostly in the highest gear).
Just using two factors- oil type and miles driven- is probably not the best method when the car's got a computer that has a lot more data than you do. After all, the car knows exactly how many times you've started the car, how much of your driving has been at various rpm, etc.
New Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 5
From: SALINAS
It's not impossible to measure various actual oil conditions but it's not how the MM works.
Honda doesn't reveal exactly what goes into the calculation but the various factors thought to be part of the formula include cold engine revolutions, warm engine revolutions, cold engine starts, warm engine starts, perhaps engine revolutions at high rpm, maybe outside temperature...
Presumably that's better than just miles driven, since 10,000 miles driven at a constant speed on a highway are less destructive than fewer miles of typical city driving (as well as a lot fewer rpm since highway driving is mostly in the highest gear).
Just using two factors- oil type and miles driven- is probably not the best method when the car's got a computer that has a lot more data than you do. After all, the car knows exactly how many times you've started the car, how much of your driving has been at various rpm, etc.
Honda doesn't reveal exactly what goes into the calculation but the various factors thought to be part of the formula include cold engine revolutions, warm engine revolutions, cold engine starts, warm engine starts, perhaps engine revolutions at high rpm, maybe outside temperature...
Presumably that's better than just miles driven, since 10,000 miles driven at a constant speed on a highway are less destructive than fewer miles of typical city driving (as well as a lot fewer rpm since highway driving is mostly in the highest gear).
Just using two factors- oil type and miles driven- is probably not the best method when the car's got a computer that has a lot more data than you do. After all, the car knows exactly how many times you've started the car, how much of your driving has been at various rpm, etc.
E-mc2 equals the theory of general relativity.
E-mc equals USELESS. The only difference is a missing critical variable.
Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,500
From: New York
Fine, so make up a number. Go 30% past what the MM says if you think your oil and filter are so wonderful. 20%? Nobody has a calculation for that. But it's your car. I prefer to use syn oil and still follow the MM. But keep in mind how much extra money (and time) you're spending if you're changing your oil twice as often as the car's computer suggests.
Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 347
From: Manitoba Canada
As this is a 7 year old thread; I bgt. my Fit LX on April 1, 2006, the first day they were available in Canada.
On my older cars my mech. friend told me to change my oil/filter twice a year, April and Oct. because of our winters.
I have driven my Fit in -38C and +35C.
Here are my oil/filter changes since then. (I drive very little, esp. winter.)
04/13/07 oil/filter - 9,842 KM. all 5%
03/16/09 B1 " - 19,738
11/8/10 oil/filter - 29,369
11/1/12 " - 40,078
It doesn't use any oil. All bulk 5/W20
On my older cars my mech. friend told me to change my oil/filter twice a year, April and Oct. because of our winters.
I have driven my Fit in -38C and +35C.
Here are my oil/filter changes since then. (I drive very little, esp. winter.)
04/13/07 oil/filter - 9,842 KM. all 5%
03/16/09 B1 " - 19,738
11/8/10 oil/filter - 29,369
11/1/12 " - 40,078
It doesn't use any oil. All bulk 5/W20
New Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 5
From: SALINAS
Fine, so make up a number. Go 30% past what the MM says if you think your oil and filter are so wonderful. 20%? Nobody has a calculation for that. But it's your car. I prefer to use syn oil and still follow the MM. But keep in mind how much extra money (and time) you're spending if you're changing your oil twice as often as the car's computer suggests.
I wanted a meter that actually told me when the oil needed changed empirically. I already feel able to guess.
Member
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 782
From: WV
You registered to reply in a 7 year old thread = You have too much time on your hands. 
Post pics of your Fit. What year, mods. etc.
Post pics of your Fit. What year, mods. etc.
Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,500
From: New York
I don't need to see more pictures of Fits. I have one in my driveway.
No, there's no exact data, and I'm not sure there's accurate data either for regular vs. syn oil either, that encompasses all sorts of driving conditions.
I suppose you can drive until the MM tells you to change the oil, then drain some oil and get in analyzed...
No, there's no exact data, and I'm not sure there's accurate data either for regular vs. syn oil either, that encompasses all sorts of driving conditions.
I suppose you can drive until the MM tells you to change the oil, then drain some oil and get in analyzed...