So, who is doing anything even remotely exciting on ANY of the vehicles they own?

No cosmetics/audio.. real mods?

It has been slow as shit around here lately.

 

me well just waiting on the flashpro................... : / so far just bought my buddy clubs coilovers 3 weeks ago there on i like them but rather wait for flashpro to buy more mod : /

 

Not I.

Goal is to buy an SR20DET or CA18DET in November/December of this year though for a swap over break. (Not in Fit of course)

 

Well I have plans just not sure of what yet...
I feel it though on no one doing any "real" mods to their fits though, its sad. The aftermarket for our cars suck (especially the GE). I leave for basic training March 4th then after that I have AIT for 25 weeks so I will have plenty of cash. I'm just debating boost or K24/K20 hybrid.

 

SR20 is the way to go.

 

Hopefully soon.

 

Excellent. Stickin with stock internals and turbo, etc?

 

Goals are to sell all the unfinished projects and un used items to fund new coilovers and exhaust work on the Fit as well as lodging and entry fee's to take it to SCCA National events!

 

well now that's not vary fair. Some people are more interested in having a banging sound system then performance mods

 

But that's obviously not what he's asking in this thread...

 

Real mods? Well, I'm not going to try and make it much faster just yet, but I consider handling improvements to be worthy. I'm itching to try out some Konis on just the rears. Other than that, a bunch of shit you'd hate to know about, like clazzios, a new head unit, some super-sick-neo-chrome lugz y0.

I want two vehicles. After that, one of them undergoes serious work. Considering my Fit is starting to look like a rice boy special I would have laughed at in high school, I'll probably make it the one to mod...because racecar.

 

Until I learn how to drive the car with that much power (lol like 170-200 whp), yes. After that, a slightly bigger turbo and other breating mods and such.

Reliability is my goal, I don't want to make myself hate turbos forever with my first turbo car by doing something stupid and making the car have too much downtime.

@Hayden, I'd definitely say suspension qualifies, DSM knows complete cars are necessary.

 

Just get the s15 turbo, it's good to about 300hp and lag doesn't exist, plus it's cheap

 

There are other forums for that As far as car audio goes.. I only ask that it be deep and clean.

Suspension and chassis work as mike noted are right up my alley. It's why I have the Fit braced up underneath! As well as the sway bar out back and swifts all around. More will be needed after I get to add power again.

Good move frankly. Getting used to on demand overseer is another thing to look forward to lol Maintenance work first will go a long way to getting to know the car then fuel mods, a wideband, tuning device and only then should you get a boost controller.

Those cars, like the DSMs cut fuel when you exceed the ECUs airflow threshold and you often end up with some thing like a cracked ring landed, blown head gasket or this:


Happened when a homemade boost controller failed, boost/airflow spiked and hit the fuel-cut threshold. Managed to somehow dump it out the wastegate and through the screamer pipe to atmosphere and save the turbine!

There are better options than the old t28s to be had now for almost as cheap, but more efficient.

 

I have the swifts, progress rsb, slipstreams, DW 205s and that's it for now. Wondering if some bracing would do anything. I've heard completely polar opposite reviews on some of those. Nobody can seem to give me a straight answer on what areas need the most bracing, who have experience with putting these little bars on the bottoms of late-model chassis'. I am playing armchair engineer and trying to use logic, but not sure if I'm getting anywhere with confirming my ideas.

For example, a c-pillar bar seems like a great idea right now, because things are starting to creak back there when I torque the chassis, but is that really going to translate into a more effective suspension compared to something that bolts right next to the articulating points that move, and do stuff? Will that even help, though...2013 baby. Shit should be strong by now when it comes to a chassis!

 

I got a full on engine build in mind + an LSD

 

I forgot to add my plan for this year is to finally get the RSX cam gear installed and re-tuned. Before I do that though I want to redo my fuel setup. I am replacing the fuel rail, and fuel line and adding a fuel PSI gauge.

I will also change my intake manifold for the RBC or the skunk one? The Skunk2 is not my first choice but it is a little bit shorter then the RBC and should be easier to fit in the car.

Then there are some other things under the hood I might want to change/clean up

 

O_O

About as bad a a LSCR (Light Seeking Connecting Rod.) I've had two ratty old Roller's do it to me while trying to move them into the back of the shop for engine builds

Sounds like a great start! Honestly, at least upgrading the rear's to the Redshift Koni's would be far more noticeable than bracing. Several GE's in our club have under bracing. The front tie/ladder bar's are your best bet for a noticeable improvement. The forces on your chassis required to gain real benefit from a c pillar bar are best not experience on public roads Makes a great hanger for dry cleaning though

I'm looking forward to seeing more of that!

Got a new HP/TQ goal in mind or just freshening up the build?

 

I had plans, but was recently informed that my company is outsourcing our department to India, so everything is on hold until I know where I will be working.

 

Haha! That's what I hear. Coat rack!

Thanks a lot for the input. I've been telling folks that a rear shock replacement would do wonders, then I found out that some Konis would actually fit via Redshift! Definitely on the list. If I go over a speed bump, the front dampens well with one rebound, and the rear bounces. I don't need anymore info than that! I know it will make a big difference. The rear feels a little disconnected from the rest of the car, which I'm used to on FWDs with a trailing link, but it sure would be nice to have everything feel solid. With the RSB, it powers out of turns in a manner more similar to a rwd car. I've been having a lot of fun.

Thanks again for some real-world knowledge based on experience from others who actually drive their cars hard. Rare!