>All these are just Hall-effect sensors. They use the small v*oltage
created
>by the proximity of a magnet to signal to the ECU.

So the black rotor is a magnet and a coil is housed in the plastic
part? What is the name of the coil? Is it pick-up coil?

There is a small metal piece, about 1mm wide and 10mm long, attached to
the side of the plastic part. Is the metal piece supposed to contact
the black rotor?

>A few questions here:
>1) What started all this anyway? (pun not intended)
>2) What symptoms did you experience prior to complete failur*e?

My wife was driving the car when it stalled. It lost power first, then
shook and died, based on her account. After many tries next day, it
started once and ran for 2 minutes in "P". It died again when it was
shifted to "D".

>3) Were there any ECU trouble codes?

I regret I did not try this as the first step. When the key is turned
to the ON position, the "check engine" light is on for a few seconds
and then off. Now all the parts have been taken off. The codes are not
accurate, I think.

>4) Did the engine misfire, or the tach act oddly?

I really do not know. It shook before dying. Is this caused by
misfiring.

>5) Had you replaced the timing belt just prior?

The timing belt was replaced many years ago. When I crank the engine,
the distributor rotor rotates slowly about one turn per second. Is it
normal?

I will probably replace the whole distributor this saturday. It will
elliminate these three sesors and the ignitor. If this does not work, i
will replace the ignition coil. If this still does not work, can ECU be
faulty? How to check if ECU is fauty?

Thanks.

 

zhang@netscape.com wrote in
news:1107447840.911086.132890@z14g2000cwz.googlegr oups.com:

>>All these are just Hall-effect sensors. They use the small v*oltage
> created
>>by the proximity of a magnet to signal to the ECU.
>
> So the black rotor is a magnet and a coil is housed in the plastic
> part? What is the name of the coil? Is it pick-up coil?


Yes. Google for more. All Hall-effect sensors work the same.


>
> There is a small metal piece, about 1mm wide and 10mm long, attached to
> the side of the plastic part. Is the metal piece supposed to contact
> the black rotor?


No. It just comes close.


>
>>A few questions here:
>>1) What started all this anyway? (pun not intended)
>>2) What symptoms did you experience prior to complete failur*e?
>
> My wife was driving the car when it stalled. It lost power first, then
> shook and died, based on her account. After many tries next day, it
> started once and ran for 2 minutes in "P". It died again when it was
> shifted to "D".


Sounds like the igniter or coil. Could also be the ignition switch or main
relay.

For the nth time, avail yourself of the collective wisdom of this group by
going here and reading how to tell if certain components are bad:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#stalling

If you go there (which you obviously have not in spite of me pointing you
it it several times):
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#stalling
you will find detailed instructions on how to test the coil, igniter, main
relay and ignition switch.


>
>>3) Were there any ECU trouble codes?
>
> I regret I did not try this as the first step. When the key is turned
> to the ON position, the "check engine" light is on for a few seconds
> and then off. Now all the parts have been taken off. The codes are not
> accurate, I think.


Why don't you try getting them. If you have not disconnected the battery or
cleared the codes by pulling the Backup fuse, the codes are still there.

Count the ECU flashes and post them here.


>
> The timing belt was replaced many years ago. When I crank the engine,
> the distributor rotor rotates slowly about one turn per second. Is it
> normal?


The rotor is solidly affixed to the camshaft. Your worrying about rotor
roational speed is a total waste of everybody's time. Either the engine is
cranking over or it is not. Even slow cranking will allow the engine to
fire.

Your attempts to see the rotor turn have probably ruined the coil by
forcing a ground path through the body of the coil.



>
> I will probably replace the whole distributor this saturday. It will
> elliminate these three sesors and the ignitor. If this does not work, i
> will replace the ignition coil. If this still does not work, can ECU be
> faulty? How to check if ECU is fauty?
>


Unless the ECU had got wet from flooding, HIGHLY unlikely. Honda ECUs are
extremely, stupendously reliable.

--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

Thank you for your time to reply. I just installed a new distributor.
Everything seems fine after the timing is set. Thanks.