Hi,

My 88 Accord DX auto suddenly won't run right--no power, barely idles,
stalls, backfires--and I want to see whether my overdue-for-a-change
80,000 mi timing belt has slipped. I plan remove the valve cover per
the Helm manual and check the cam pully marks when the flywheel mark
indicates TDC compression on #1 cyl. I've never seen the latter. Where
is this window? Helm doesn't show it. Any pointers?

Thanks,
JB

 

Misterbeets wrote:
> Hi,
>
> My 88 Accord DX auto suddenly won't run right--no power, barely idles,
> stalls, backfires--and I want to see whether my overdue-for-a-change
> 80,000 mi timing belt has slipped. I plan remove the valve cover per
> the Helm manual and check the cam pully marks when the flywheel mark
> indicates TDC compression on #1 cyl. I've never seen the latter. Where
> is this window? Helm doesn't show it. Any pointers?
>
> Thanks,
> JB

------------------------

If it's like later Honda engines, the marks are on the outside edge of
the crankshaft pulley, and there's a pointer molded into the timing belt
cover. There's two marks on the pulley, one being TDC, and the other
will be (something like) 14 degrees BTDC. You look down with a
flashlight from above. Since you'll have a spark plug out, you'll know
which mark is which by the piston's position.. Keep in mind your TB
interval is max mileage OR max years, too.

'Curly'

 

Thanks. Timing checked out OK. Did find some corrosion at a distributor
tower, and it runs fine again.

 

Better, but not fine. Definite loss of power and had to set idle higher
to keep from stalling. Possibly EGR stuck open. Will check into this.
Is there any chemical to clean it, or do you just scrape away carbon?

 

I'd check the advance mechanisms with the cap off. see if you can turn the
rotor a little. It should move fairly freely and snap back pretty quick.
Also check the vacuum advance diaphragm to see if it holds vacuum.... check
with both hoses disconnected.

"Misterbeets" <misterbeets@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1116243272.972865.140280@g47g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> Better, but not fine. Definite loss of power and had to set idle higher
> to keep from stalling. Possibly EGR stuck open. Will check into this.
> Is there any chemical to clean it, or do you just scrape away carbon?
>

 

Good advice. One of the two plastic plugs inside the distributor, that
cover up the screws holding the plate, broke and was fouling the stator
blade, preventing any spark advance. I just removed it. Thanks everyone
else for all the suggestions.

And now I know my compression numbers, and I can think about putting on
a rebuilt head and installing new rings.

 

Oops.On further investigation, it was the rotor: Had a carbon button
underneath the arm that showed spark damage. $3 repair. Plastic plug is
back in, runs fine. Added Vavlemedic for sticky rings too.