Hi,
My distributor failed and I am getting a new aftermarket one (a
complete one. with cap). The dealer said an hour and a half as they
have to exchange components from the old one. (this was before I told
him I was getting a complete distributor). Is 1.5 hrs too much if I
give him the whole distributor. What parts does he have to take from
the old. Does the timing have to be reset. My car was working
perfectly before the distributor broke, does the timing still have to
be adjusted.

Removing and replacing seems to be very straight forward, but do I have
to worry about adjusting the timing if I am doing it myself.

thanks for any help
Roshan

 

randp@kos.net wrote:

> Hi,
> My distributor failed and I am getting a new aftermarket one (a
> complete one. with cap). The dealer said an hour and a half as they
> have to exchange components from the old one. (this was before I told
> him I was getting a complete distributor). Is 1.5 hrs too much if I
> give him the whole distributor. What parts does he have to take from
> the old. Does the timing have to be reset. My car was working
> perfectly before the distributor broke, does the timing still have to
> be adjusted.
>
> Removing and replacing seems to be very straight forward, but do I have
> to worry about adjusting the timing if I am doing it myself.
>
> thanks for any help
> Roshan

Does the entire distributor really need to be replaced? When my '93 Accord
was infected with the "red dust" problem, only the housing, cap and rotor
were replaced (all OEM parts). Not sure if the timing was adjusted.

BTW, don't use aftermarket. It won't last long.

 

<randp@kos.net> wrote
> Hi,
> My distributor failed and I am getting a new aftermarket one (a
> complete one. with cap). The dealer said an hour and a half as they
> have to exchange components from the old one. (this was before I told
> him I was getting a complete distributor). Is 1.5 hrs too much if I
> give him the whole distributor. What parts does he have to take from
> the old.

The major parts he may be salvaging from the old are the ignitor (a.k.a.
ignition module) and coil. You might consider simply replacing the ignitor
and coil (for some $200) and starting completely fresh, though.

> Does the timing have to be reset.

Checked and adjusted is definitely a good idea, but this is not hard to do.
It's accomplished with a timing light and rotation of the distributor
housing. The three bolts that hold the distributor housing in place are
loosened. Are you handy at all?

> My car was working
> perfectly before the distributor broke, does the timing still have to
> be adjusted.

Yes.

Free online manual for your Accord (go to the Engine Tune-Up section):
http://www.honda.co.uk/owner/workshopmanuals2.html

Also, www.autozone.com has the repair manual online free for this car. The
instructions should be pretty good and possibly identical to the above.

> Removing and replacing seems to be very straight forward, but do I have
> to worry about adjusting the timing if I am doing it myself.

I bought a timing light for $15 in a pawn shop last year. I'll use it once
every few years, probably. Buy a cheap one and do it yourself, again
assuming you're a little handy. Autozone, Pep Boys, and Ebay all have fine
ones at reasonable prices.

The distributor is the Achilles Heel of the early 1990s or so Hondas, but
get familiar with it, and you'll be in great shape.

What exactly in your distributor failed?

 

Thanks SS.
I think I also have the red dust problem. When I opened the cap, it was
coated with red dust and initially it was the bearing that was
squealing, but eventually it has got worse and won't start now.

I have already ordered an aftermarket, I haven't taken my car to the
dealer yet, but the oem distributor is $698 + tx and I got a good
quality aftermarket (I hope) w/ 3 yr warrenty for $209 (JDM I think).

Roshan

 

Thanks Elle for the above info and links.

I started out with a squealing bearing, but I was out of town, and had
to drive 160 kms back home and by the time I got home (I barely made
it, the engine light came on and I was getting engine misses/misfires.)

So I don't really know what failed, but I think at the minimum the
bearing is toast.
I will look at the instructions on how to fix it, but I think Honda may
have to do this as I wouldn't know what component failed, what state
the coil is etc.. I have got a fairly decent aftermarket distributor
from Japan with a 3 yr warranty, so I think it should work.

thanks,

 

Your dealer is ripping you off. There was a TSB on these cars and the
distributor is less than $150 for that car from honda.

06301-PT3-A20.

If you give them that part number, they'll be able to order the cheaper
priced unit.

<randp@kos.net> wrote in message
news:1117111156.428882.46390@f14g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
> Thanks SS.
> I think I also have the red dust problem. When I opened the cap, it was
> coated with red dust and initially it was the bearing that was
> squealing, but eventually it has got worse and won't start now.
>
> I have already ordered an aftermarket, I haven't taken my car to the
> dealer yet, but the oem distributor is $698 + tx and I got a good
> quality aftermarket (I hope) w/ 3 yr warrenty for $209 (JDM I think).
>
> Roshan
>