Detailed: 1971 Datsun 240Z
#1
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 2,373
Detailed: 1971 Datsun 240Z
Sick car, unfortunately its up for sale and not in the best condition. Owner just wanted to pretty it up to make the sale go faster. Car looks great considering its almost 40 years old. Turbo motor included.
In progress:
Front of the HUGE hood:
Done
Had some trouble focusing my camera today... Overall the detail went well. This was a single stage paint job, fairly old. And it has been previously wet sanded and polishes. We agreed that doing another wet sand would be a bad idea, as the paint is already running thin in several places. The owner didnt want perfection, but just needed the car to be more presentable.
In progress:
Front of the HUGE hood:
Done
Had some trouble focusing my camera today... Overall the detail went well. This was a single stage paint job, fairly old. And it has been previously wet sanded and polishes. We agreed that doing another wet sand would be a bad idea, as the paint is already running thin in several places. The owner didnt want perfection, but just needed the car to be more presentable.
Last edited by qbmurderer13; 03-27-2010 at 10:28 PM.
#4
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 2,373
The engine is in great shape, but it was in a minor accident when his transmission locked up and sent him into a spin. Theres a couple dents, front grille is damaged, missing a headlight cover, and still needs a new paintjob. Thats pretty much it, real minor stuff, especially for a '71. I believe he's asking 5500 for it. He has an 09 Fit now, he's on these forums, maybe he'll pop in with some more info on the car.
Last edited by qbmurderer13; 03-27-2010 at 11:16 PM.
#6
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 2,373
M105/4" Orange Flat pad using the Kevin Brown method. Then some M205 on Orange also. Used Clearkotes red moose glaze, and duragloss aquawax. All topped with FK 425.
#8
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 2,373
IMO the Kevin Brown method is the only way to use a porter cable. It does waste a lot of M105 but it cuts muuuuch better. This was my first time using it but I'm going to keep using this method when needed.
#12
Thanks for the great work qb! Here's a couple pictures I took the next day. It was overcast so the lighting wasn't ideal.
I think the damaged front end gives the car character =P
Here's the craigslist if anyone is interested
1971 Datsun 240Z *Turbo*
I think the damaged front end gives the car character =P
Here's the craigslist if anyone is interested
1971 Datsun 240Z *Turbo*
#15
Dang QB13, your skills and knowledge in detailing blows me away. This one tops them all IMO, the car looks like it has a sheet load of hard water spots and 40 years of scratches and you fixed her up and made her looking hot again. +rep for a hell of a job.
One question tho, what made you decide to use Clearkotes red moose glaze, and duragloss aquawax and FK 425 instead of all the other products that are out there?
One question tho, what made you decide to use Clearkotes red moose glaze, and duragloss aquawax and FK 425 instead of all the other products that are out there?
#16
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 2,373
Well I used the Clearkote because it works amazing on red cars, and it has a very good filling property, which this car needed. It still had some rain etching but the glaze really helped fill in and hide any of the imperfections left behind.
The duragloss aquawax is the best synthetic wax period. It works soooo well and leaves the paint sooo smooth. The durability is great and its very easy to use.
And the FK 425 is the best quick detailer there is. It is non static so it won't attract dust like some quick detailers. Also it does very well at leaving behind an extra layer of protection over the paint. Makes the sealant and wax lasts longer, it looks amazing, and it smells even better.
Thanks for all the compliments. Don't hesitate to ask any detailing questions.
The duragloss aquawax is the best synthetic wax period. It works soooo well and leaves the paint sooo smooth. The durability is great and its very easy to use.
And the FK 425 is the best quick detailer there is. It is non static so it won't attract dust like some quick detailers. Also it does very well at leaving behind an extra layer of protection over the paint. Makes the sealant and wax lasts longer, it looks amazing, and it smells even better.
Thanks for all the compliments. Don't hesitate to ask any detailing questions.
#17
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 2,373
Stupid blackberry won't let me edit threads either wtf... But I also forgot to mention that there's a lot of trial and error involved in this. I have tried tons of different products and now I know exactly which ones are right for what car I do. Products like aquawax and FK425 are my top used. I use them on every detail. Products like Clearkote glaze I use on red and black cars. Although it varies on the condition of the car and brand etc... But aquawax and FK425 are always used. I won't use another synthetic sealant or any other quick detailer (although there are other very good quick detailers, I prefer FK).
#18
LOL! My previous nissan xterra got into a fender bender and the damage was similar to yours, only the driver side head light was hit. So the light, bumper, hood and fender were all spaced out. So for the 2 years that I drove it like that, it looked like a transformer stuck in mid-transformation. hahah.
#20
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 2,373
Eh I did my best. It couldve came out way better with some wet sanding, but the paint is really thin already. And those wheels are Konig's.