533 hp CR-Z!!!
#1
11-02-2010, 11:35 PM
533 hp CR-Z!!!
Bisimoto tunes a CR-Z. Here's hoping L15 mods available in the future.
YouTube - Bisimoto tuning of 533 hp turbo 1.5L CR-Z
YouTube - Bisimoto tuning of 533 hp turbo 1.5L CR-Z
#3
11-03-2010, 12:20 AM
"parts available to the public..."
YouTube - Bisimoto Engineering 2011 Honda CR-Z Project Vehicle
YouTube - Bisimoto Engineering 2011 Honda CR-Z Project Vehicle
#4
11-03-2010, 02:02 AM
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 4,424
They are running a 64mm Turbo according to the video info.. that is about the same as a "small" GT4088R which is 70lb/min capable compressor. They must have it attached to a GT37R or 35R Turbine in a . to spool on a 1.5L!
Here is a compressor map for a 63.5mm inducer GT4088R:
Here is a compressor map for a 63.5mm inducer GT4088R:
#10
11-03-2010, 12:42 PM
You GE should start looking to see what parts from this engine can fit in your engine bay. Some very nice power coming out of that cr-z. Is it still a full hybrid? bisi says they kept the hybrid in tact but what could the fuel mileage be with 550hp
#11
11-03-2010, 01:14 PM
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 4,424
When your not boosting you don't need extra fuel.
Also both GD/GE's have the option of Crower Connecting Rods and Wiseco, Mahle or CP Pistons as I discovered recently in another thread:
RACING PARTS FOR HONDA NEW JAZZ FIT GE - Modifikasi.com
Many of these like Crower and CP can be ordered domestically, so basically we have what we need for fully built L15A's. It's just gonna run like ~$1200 for a solid bottom end, which is not that bad really.
A main girdle and studs, some rod bolts, head studs would really be all thats left. But you can make plenty without those.
On a 1.5L like ours being fed by a giant 64mm (GT4088R sized) turbo, it probably only takes ~21psi to see 530whp worth of airflow (~54-55lbs/min) on a 70lb/min compressor. There are GT3586Rs making over 700whp, but thats approaching 35psi @ sea level (with ~70*F airtemps) on a little 4cyl like ours.
For comparison, on a 59mm Turbo like the one on my 2.0L, it is not uncommon to have people making 600whp on manual trans FWD setups.
So there is alot left in that turbo, and if built properly there should be some room for growth over the ~55lbs/min they are already moving. Some methanol or a water/air charge cooler would probably help here.
Last edited by DiamondStarMonsters; 11-03-2010 at 01:17 PM.
#12
11-03-2010, 01:26 PM
At full boost, probably gallons per mile.. but out of boost operating below 100kPa at the manifold gas mileage can be the same as a regular L15A.
When your not boosting you don't need extra fuel.
Also both GD/GE's have the option of Crower Connecting Rods and Wiseco, Mahle or CP Pistons as I discovered recently in another thread:
RACING PARTS FOR HONDA NEW JAZZ FIT GE - Modifikasi.com
Many of these like Crower and CP can be ordered domestically, so basically we have what we need for fully built L15A's. It's just gonna run like ~$1200 for a solid bottom end, which is not that bad really.
A main girdle and studs, some rod bolts, head studs would really be all thats left. But you can make plenty without those.
On a 1.5L like ours being fed by a giant 64mm (GT4088R sized) turbo, it probably only takes ~21psi to see 530whp worth of airflow (~54-55lbs/min) on a 70lb/min compressor. There are GT3586Rs making over 700whp, but thats approaching 35psi @ sea level (with ~70*F airtemps) on a little 4cyl like ours.
For comparison, on a 59mm Turbo like the one on my 2.0L, it is not uncommon to have people making 600whp on manual trans FWD setups.
So there is alot left in that turbo, and if built properly there should be some room for growth over the ~55lbs/min they are already moving. Some methanol or a water/air charge cooler would probably help here.
When your not boosting you don't need extra fuel.
Also both GD/GE's have the option of Crower Connecting Rods and Wiseco, Mahle or CP Pistons as I discovered recently in another thread:
RACING PARTS FOR HONDA NEW JAZZ FIT GE - Modifikasi.com
Many of these like Crower and CP can be ordered domestically, so basically we have what we need for fully built L15A's. It's just gonna run like ~$1200 for a solid bottom end, which is not that bad really.
A main girdle and studs, some rod bolts, head studs would really be all thats left. But you can make plenty without those.
On a 1.5L like ours being fed by a giant 64mm (GT4088R sized) turbo, it probably only takes ~21psi to see 530whp worth of airflow (~54-55lbs/min) on a 70lb/min compressor. There are GT3586Rs making over 700whp, but thats approaching 35psi @ sea level (with ~70*F airtemps) on a little 4cyl like ours.
For comparison, on a 59mm Turbo like the one on my 2.0L, it is not uncommon to have people making 600whp on manual trans FWD setups.
So there is alot left in that turbo, and if built properly there should be some room for growth over the ~55lbs/min they are already moving. Some methanol or a water/air charge cooler would probably help here.
Thanks for all the information. Im not to educated in the field ive been learning as I go. There front intercooler is HUGE. I would love to see some worked/turboed l15a's. Once my extended warranty is up and it's motorcycle season I will be likely starting to work up my engine. I just need to have another vehicle for work and school if the fit ends up injured for a few days or something. Warranty will probably be up summer after next.
#15
11-03-2010, 03:06 PM
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 4,424
Thanks for all the information. Im not to educated in the field ive been learning as I go. There front intercooler is HUGE. I would love to see some worked/turboed l15a's. Once my extended warranty is up and it's motorcycle season I will be likely starting to work up my engine. I just need to have another vehicle for work and school if the fit ends up injured for a few days or something. Warranty will probably be up summer after next.
And you are right, you never want to modify your DD if it is your only source of transportation.
I've done that before, and while I pulled it off, it meant staying up all night some nights so I could make it to work the next morning... or calling a cab when a crucial part like a MAP sensor or injectors were late in shipping.
My GD's warranty is up in the spring, and if my financial situation is maintained as it stands, I should be able to swing a serious build, on top of the four other engines in progress.. namely 3 different style 4G63Ts and an H22 with low/no compression in 2cylinders that I got for free doing a swap out for a friend with Prelude. It's gonna be a busy spring/summer!
I want to buy or find a second L15A to work on though and keep the (meticulously maintained) one I have intact and sealed if I ever need to drop it back in. No over-revs, lugging, mis-shifts, oil changes every 3500, proper warm up/idle down every time I use her.. I would be curious to dyno this block with a group of random L15As and see if there is any difference because of how I set my rings.. with the first 20 minutes and the next 100miles being the crucial period.
I got the car fresh off the boat from Japan because according to the dealer I bought the very first of the last batch of GD3s sent to the US. I even got to break in my own rings and cam! I put Brad Penn break-in oil before it left the lot! There were zero miles/hours on the motor from what I was told, and I could even smell the coatings/finish/paint burning off for the first couple weeks. Lots of lifter tick initially too.
Three years of "spirited" driving and a couple open track sessions later and she purrs at idle with little to no ticking, unless very cold and I couldn't be happier with a bike sized engine in a 2500lb car. The short gearing helps though.
Last edited by DiamondStarMonsters; 11-03-2010 at 03:12 PM.
#16
11-03-2010, 03:09 PM
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 4,424
From what I have been able to find in talking to a few shops/manfacturers the majority of the internals between GE/GD and the CR-Z are swappable. It is still an L-block after all.
The crank journals, wrist pins, bore/stroke.. everything except the cylinder heads seem to be compatible. I'll know more here over the next few months...
Last edited by DiamondStarMonsters; 11-03-2010 at 08:41 PM.
#19
11-04-2010, 09:02 AM
At full boost, probably gallons per mile.. but out of boost operating below 100kPa at the manifold gas mileage can be the same as a regular L15A.
When your not boosting you don't need extra fuel.
Also both GD/GE's have the option of Crower Connecting Rods and Wiseco, Mahle or CP Pistons as I discovered recently in another thread:
RACING PARTS FOR HONDA NEW JAZZ FIT GE - Modifikasi.com
Many of these like Crower and CP can be ordered domestically, so basically we have what we need for fully built L15A's. It's just gonna run like ~$1200 for a solid bottom end, which is not that bad really.
A main girdle and studs, some rod bolts, head studs would really be all thats left. But you can make plenty without those.
On a 1.5L like ours being fed by a giant 64mm (GT4088R sized) turbo, it probably only takes ~21psi to see 530whp worth of airflow (~54-55lbs/min) on a 70lb/min compressor. There are GT3586Rs making over 700whp, but thats approaching 35psi @ sea level (with ~70*F airtemps) on a little 4cyl like ours.
For comparison, on a 59mm Turbo like the one on my 2.0L, it is not uncommon to have people making 600whp on manual trans FWD setups.
So there is alot left in that turbo, and if built properly there should be some room for growth over the ~55lbs/min they are already moving. Some methanol or a water/air charge cooler would probably help here.
When your not boosting you don't need extra fuel.
Also both GD/GE's have the option of Crower Connecting Rods and Wiseco, Mahle or CP Pistons as I discovered recently in another thread:
RACING PARTS FOR HONDA NEW JAZZ FIT GE - Modifikasi.com
Many of these like Crower and CP can be ordered domestically, so basically we have what we need for fully built L15A's. It's just gonna run like ~$1200 for a solid bottom end, which is not that bad really.
A main girdle and studs, some rod bolts, head studs would really be all thats left. But you can make plenty without those.
On a 1.5L like ours being fed by a giant 64mm (GT4088R sized) turbo, it probably only takes ~21psi to see 530whp worth of airflow (~54-55lbs/min) on a 70lb/min compressor. There are GT3586Rs making over 700whp, but thats approaching 35psi @ sea level (with ~70*F airtemps) on a little 4cyl like ours.
For comparison, on a 59mm Turbo like the one on my 2.0L, it is not uncommon to have people making 600whp on manual trans FWD setups.
So there is alot left in that turbo, and if built properly there should be some room for growth over the ~55lbs/min they are already moving. Some methanol or a water/air charge cooler would probably help here.
#20
11-04-2010, 11:26 AM
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 4,424
Even a 60+mm turbo in most cases weighs less than 30lbs, plus maybe 8-12lbs for the charge piping/couplers/sensors and like 12-15lbs for the biggest conceivable the IC core you could put on a Fit.
From what I gather the K-swap with trans is nearly 175lbs more than a given turbo L15A. Alot of that looks like it is pretty far forward over the front axle and towards the passenger side which completely changes the cars handling characteristic and weight distribution.
Important to note that at some point Bisimoto decided they needed to sleeve the block which is usually a bit expensive, but perhaps they can help in that regard. User "Randull" on FitFreak would probably be able to look into this for you, he is a Bisimoto Engineer apparently. I think he is currently at SEMA but we have exchanged PMs and he seems like a nice guy and very helpful.