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1967 vw beetle

  #1  
Old 05-12-2012, 04:12 PM
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1967 vw beetle

Hey fit freaks. I was wondering if anyone on the forum have interest or own old vw. My mom has a 1967 do motor with dual carbs. I'm trying kno do a oil change on it :)
 
  #2  
Old 05-12-2012, 06:05 PM
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old vw's are the shit. its funny cuz my step dad has a 67 vw convertable. i plan to get a bug from the 50's at some point, or a bus. either way, it will be dumped. lol

oil change, can't help you there man. lol not sure on that one.
 
  #3  
Old 05-12-2012, 08:01 PM
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I owned a '65 Bug, but the last time I did an oil change on that car was many decades ago. Sorry, I assume that it had a drain plug in the bottom of the oil pan just like every other car on the road. Just jack up the back end and look for a drain plug.
 
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Old 05-12-2012, 09:50 PM
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What is it you want to know about changing the oil?.. You need 2.5 quarts of oil and an oil change kit that has gaskets and washers... Remove the drain plug followed by the plate gaskets and filter screen... Clean the screen and plate in gasoline, replace in the same order as removed using the new gaskets and washers.. Add oil, crank engine checking for leaks, shut off engine and check the dip stick to make sure it has the correct level..... Repeat in 1500 miles and adjust the valves every other oil change...
 
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Old 05-12-2012, 11:41 PM
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Hey guys! I have done exactly what Texas said! The procedure is longer than the modern car. The screen was full of gunk! The car runs a bit smoother. Next step is to get a timing or strobe light to time the car. But first I need to find myself a dizzy wrench. I'll try to get pics.


-bee
 
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Old 05-13-2012, 12:38 AM
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You can static time it with a test light... I was rebuilding those things daily back in the early 1970s... The engines I put together to embarrass muscle car owners were good for 2 or 3 hard runs before a rod bearing or 2 would spin...
 
  #7  
Old 05-13-2012, 12:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Texas Coyote View Post
You can static time it with a test light... I was rebuilding those things daily back in the early 1970s... The engines I put together to embarrass muscle car owners were good for 2 or 3 hard runs before a rod bearing or 2 would spin...
I am going to purchase a test light soon. Do you still build motors? Also my mom has a dual carb setup and it seems like its overkill since it is only 40 hp. Also it's a pain in the ass to get to the sparkplugs.
 
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Old 05-13-2012, 01:43 AM
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I quit driving air cooled VWs when my ex took the last 2 I had owned 18 years ago.. I believe the 67 model used a PICT 32 carburetor.. They were the first beetles with a 1500cc engine and rated with 50 hp like the 66 1300cc models.. The first 1500 single port head engines were in the 65 buses... the carburetors could be out of an early 1500cc fast back or square back.. I'm scaring myself by being able to remember this stuff... if there is an old interior or tail light some wire and 2 alligator clip laying around you have a test light.
 
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Old 05-13-2012, 01:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Texas Coyote View Post
I quit driving air cooled VWs when my ex took the last 2 I had owned 18 years ago.. I believe the 67 model used a PICT 32 carburetor.. They were the first beetles with a 1500cc engine and rated with 50 hp like the 66 1300cc models.. The first 1500 single port head engines were in the 65 buses... the carburetors could be out of an early 1500cc fast back or square back.. I'm scaring myself by being able to remember this stuff... if there is an old interior or tail light some wire and 2 alligator clip laying around you have a test light.

Man you remember it like it was yesterday! I will try to get pics for identification. I will try to make a DIY test light! Also I am having lots of trouble loosening the dizzy bolt ( I believe I need a dizzy wrench).
 
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Old 05-13-2012, 02:21 AM
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I'm not sure what you mean by "dizzy".. Are you talking about the clamp that holds the distributor in place? If that's it I believe its a 10mm... It may call for a thin wall 1/4" socket in 10mm.. I seem to recall that a 3/8" socket had a clearance problem... If you can remove the bolt or nut the secures the clamp to the engine case, you can remove the distributor with the clamp attached... The distributor can only go in one way so there won't be any hassle and you can remove or loosen the clamp while it's out.
 
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Old 05-13-2012, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Texas Coyote View Post
I'm not sure what you mean by "dizzy".. Are you talking about the clamp that holds the distributor in place? If that's it I believe its a 10mm... It may call for a thin wall 1/4" socket in 10mm.. I seem to recall that a 3/8" socket had a clearance problem... If you can remove the bolt or nut the secures the clamp to the engine case, you can remove the distributor with the clamp attached... The distributor can only go in one way so there won't be any hassle and you can remove or loosen the clamp while it's out.
Goodmorning Sir and Happy mothers day! Yea the Dizzy as in Distributor. You are correct about using a thin wall socket. I will need to borrow my neighbors set.

Here are some pics!

I jus found out that the carbs are webers.


009 Distributor?


Weber


D Motor






Can I put a breather filter on this?
 
  #12  
Old 05-13-2012, 01:15 PM
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Oh man do you have some nice stuff to work with... The 009 distributor was the hot thing, usually used with a Bosch Super Blue coil.. The 009 relied on centripetal force on weights and springs to advance the ignition timing according to the engines RPM , where the distributors with vacuum disk would advance the same way but at cruising speed the increase in vacuum would give you better fuel mileage by providing more advance.. The 009 had more advance at higher revs so you had to keep the revs up by using lower gears...I used Holley 300 CFM Bug Spray carburetors instead of Webers... The Webers could be dialed in better but you needed high compression pistons and high lift cam with 280 degree duration to get any benefits from them... I never had anyone with 2 Webers like those out run me but they looked good... That is a 60 HP 1600cc engine possibly of Mexican origin based on it having an alternator... If there is a bulge on the back of the fan shroud it has an over sized oil cooler that wasn't used until 1973... I am pretty sure you also have a smaller diameter power pulley on the crank so you need to have it set up to run rich and keep the revs high to not overheat it.... It won't last long running low octane fuel and leaded gas would be better to prevent valve failure... It looks like the oil cooler may be leaking..
 
  #13  
Old 05-14-2012, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Texas Coyote View Post
Oh man do you have some nice stuff to work with... The 009 distributor was the hot thing, usually used with a Bosch Super Blue coil.. The 009 relied on centripetal force on weights and springs to advance the ignition timing according to the engines RPM , where the distributors with vacuum disk would advance the same way but at cruising speed the increase in vacuum would give you better fuel mileage by providing more advance.. The 009 had more advance at higher revs so you had to keep the revs up by using lower gears...I used Holley 300 CFM Bug Spray carburetors instead of Webers... The Webers could be dialed in better but you needed high compression pistons and high lift cam with 280 degree duration to get any benefits from them... I never had anyone with 2 Webers like those out run me but they looked good... That is a 60 HP 1600cc engine possibly of Mexican origin based on it having an alternator... If there is a bulge on the back of the fan shroud it has an over sized oil cooler that wasn't used until 1973... I am pretty sure you also have a smaller diameter power pulley on the crank so you need to have it set up to run rich and keep the revs high to not overheat it.... It won't last long running low octane fuel and leaded gas would be better to prevent valve failure... It looks like the oil cooler may be leaking..

Goodmorning good sir! I think I am going to look for that blue Bosch Coil.I thought the D0 motors are the 1200cc 40hp. I wish you lived closer :)

I will take a look on the weekend to pin point these issues.

Thanks again sir

-bee
 
  #14  
Old 05-14-2012, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by timemachine View Post
Also it's a pain in the ass to get to the sparkplugs.
I owned a '66 I bought with a modified engine and a Baja kit, and a '69 I bought from its original owner in '85 and restored pretty much to stock. I'd just drop the engine to do the plugs or anything else that was a lot easier with it out. My wife was trained to work the floor jack, so it would only take about 20 minutes to drop the engine, and would save some skin on my knuckles.
 
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Old 05-14-2012, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Doug Just Doug View Post
I owned a '66 I bought with a modified engine and a Baja kit, and a '69 I bought from its original owner in '85 and restored pretty much to stock. I'd just drop the engine to do the plugs or anything else that was a lot easier with it out. My wife was trained to work the floor jack, so it would only take about 20 minutes to drop the engine, and would save some skin on my knuckles.
I wish I had a girl who can use a jack lol.. My mom told me the car is actually a 66 not a 67 oops! Any pics of the sweet ride?
 
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