ATR built GE8 Fit Turbo
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New Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 17
From: Canada
ATR built GE8 Fit Turbo
Our Honda associate employee race team (ATR) has been building cars for time attack since 2006, and back in 2009, we got a GE8 Fit to play with.
We originally ran it nearly stock, then we decided to turbo it....
I'll admit, I lurked fitfreak looking for success stories with a GE8 turbo, but didn't find too much info. So now that our car has been completed and run for 2 years, I feel I should share a bit. Unfortunately, I'm not so great at taking photos of everything, but if anyone has any questions, I may be able to assist. The car is still together, so I will try and take some more photos of the build.
Here's what the car looks like:
Here are the engine specs the 1st year we ran using stock internals:
215whp on mustang dyno
Borgwarner EFR6258 turbo
AEM FIC piggyback ecu
RDX 410cc injectors
Walboro 255lph fuel pump
Vibrant FMIC
AEM UGEO wideband
3" turbo-back exhaust (no cat)
Mishimoto radiator
Mishimoto oil cooler
And we swapped in H-beam rods and 9:1 forged pistons, Bisimoto intake manifold, and bisimoto cams the 2nd year, but ran into problems with fueling and tuning. The returnless fuel system was running out of relative pressure compared to manifold pressure, and so the injector duration was getting maxed out. So we did what we could and only ended up with 243whp on the mustang dyno.
It really requires a return fuel system to have proper fuel pressure at high boost. And it also needs a standalone ECU so it can rev to 8000rpm where the turbo and the cam work best. The FMIC and piping isn't very efficient, so that would have to be improved. We also had some problems with the stock ECU thinking the increased cylinder combustion pressure was misfire, and would sometimes cause limp-mode - standalone would fix that.
After that, I'm confident we could get 300whp at about 20psi, and 350 at 30psi. Although the transmission probably wouldn't last long at that power...
Anyway, even with "only" 243whp, the car is a blast to drive. The chassis is quite stiff, and handles great. The rear torsion suspension makes it very tail happy when set up properly, and the J's racing wing keeps it in check at higher speeds.
And of course, when I roll through pit lane and let off the throttle, it always makes me smile when it pops and backfires out the side exit straight exhaust.
Oh, and shooting fire on track surprises other drivers... especially in a Fit.
We originally ran it nearly stock, then we decided to turbo it....
I'll admit, I lurked fitfreak looking for success stories with a GE8 turbo, but didn't find too much info. So now that our car has been completed and run for 2 years, I feel I should share a bit. Unfortunately, I'm not so great at taking photos of everything, but if anyone has any questions, I may be able to assist. The car is still together, so I will try and take some more photos of the build.
Here's what the car looks like:
Here are the engine specs the 1st year we ran using stock internals:
215whp on mustang dyno
Borgwarner EFR6258 turbo
AEM FIC piggyback ecu
RDX 410cc injectors
Walboro 255lph fuel pump
Vibrant FMIC
AEM UGEO wideband
3" turbo-back exhaust (no cat)
Mishimoto radiator
Mishimoto oil cooler
And we swapped in H-beam rods and 9:1 forged pistons, Bisimoto intake manifold, and bisimoto cams the 2nd year, but ran into problems with fueling and tuning. The returnless fuel system was running out of relative pressure compared to manifold pressure, and so the injector duration was getting maxed out. So we did what we could and only ended up with 243whp on the mustang dyno.
It really requires a return fuel system to have proper fuel pressure at high boost. And it also needs a standalone ECU so it can rev to 8000rpm where the turbo and the cam work best. The FMIC and piping isn't very efficient, so that would have to be improved. We also had some problems with the stock ECU thinking the increased cylinder combustion pressure was misfire, and would sometimes cause limp-mode - standalone would fix that.
After that, I'm confident we could get 300whp at about 20psi, and 350 at 30psi. Although the transmission probably wouldn't last long at that power...
Anyway, even with "only" 243whp, the car is a blast to drive. The chassis is quite stiff, and handles great. The rear torsion suspension makes it very tail happy when set up properly, and the J's racing wing keeps it in check at higher speeds.
And of course, when I roll through pit lane and let off the throttle, it always makes me smile when it pops and backfires out the side exit straight exhaust.
Oh, and shooting fire on track surprises other drivers... especially in a Fit.
Thread Starter
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New Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 17
From: Canada
We are running the Pro-C for GD Fit. We managed to make them fit on GE. They are 8k/6k springs at nearly the lowest setting due to the smaller diameter tires.
We didn't feel the need for higher springs rates due the lighter unsprung mass, and the lighter overall curb weight. The car is about 2500lbs wet.
I found a few crappy quality cellphone videos and put them on youtube. Unfortunately youtube messed up the aspect.
You can see us really playing with the oversteer. The clutch type differential really works to pull the front end through the corner, and if you lift, the back end starts to come around.
We didn't feel the need for higher springs rates due the lighter unsprung mass, and the lighter overall curb weight. The car is about 2500lbs wet.
I found a few crappy quality cellphone videos and put them on youtube. Unfortunately youtube messed up the aspect.
You can see us really playing with the oversteer. The clutch type differential really works to pull the front end through the corner, and if you lift, the back end starts to come around.
Last edited by jonweir; Jun 13, 2013 at 08:26 PM.
Thread Starter
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New Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 17
From: Canada
Alignment settings are pretty simple, since the rear is fixed entirely.
At the front, we just play with the right amount of negative camber for the track. Which is about -2 to -2.5 degrees, depending on the tire and track etc.
I like driving FWD with some toe-out on the front, and all our drivers have gotten used to that. We have -3mm total toe out.
At the front, we just play with the right amount of negative camber for the track. Which is about -2 to -2.5 degrees, depending on the tire and track etc.
I like driving FWD with some toe-out on the front, and all our drivers have gotten used to that. We have -3mm total toe out.
243 whp is already GREAT !,.
if you are building the car for daily street use with reliability and dependability as the first priority, how much wheel horse power do you recommend ?
and how much do you think will it cost ?
Would you be able to make a kit and install/tuning it too ?
Thanks
if you are building the car for daily street use with reliability and dependability as the first priority, how much wheel horse power do you recommend ?
and how much do you think will it cost ?
Would you be able to make a kit and install/tuning it too ?
Thanks
Thread Starter
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New Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 17
From: Canada
I don't have any plans to market it right now, but I suppose I could help get something made up if a few were interested...
I am a grassroots forum guy like the all of us, so I'll share my experience for free with anyone else who's interested.
As far as a streetable setup, I've thought about that more since I just bought my wife a 2013 Fit sport 5AT last month....
I think our first year setup with a high flow cat and streetable exhaust would be around 200whp on 91 octane, and the stock clutch and transmission can handle that just fine. This would be a fun setup for the street, although maybe a bit tough to control wheelspin in 1st/2nd gear with an open diff.
That kind of setup would require a few things to run reliably, of course not all would need to be in the kit.
turbo
turbo manifold
downpipe
high flow cat
exhaust
intercooler
hot piping
intake
piggyback ECU
RDX injectors
oil cooler
upgraded rad
low temp thermostat
high flow fuel pump
I am a grassroots forum guy like the all of us, so I'll share my experience for free with anyone else who's interested.
As far as a streetable setup, I've thought about that more since I just bought my wife a 2013 Fit sport 5AT last month....
I think our first year setup with a high flow cat and streetable exhaust would be around 200whp on 91 octane, and the stock clutch and transmission can handle that just fine. This would be a fun setup for the street, although maybe a bit tough to control wheelspin in 1st/2nd gear with an open diff.
That kind of setup would require a few things to run reliably, of course not all would need to be in the kit.
turbo
turbo manifold
downpipe
high flow cat
exhaust
intercooler
hot piping
intake
piggyback ECU
RDX injectors
oil cooler
upgraded rad
low temp thermostat
high flow fuel pump
Last edited by jonweir; Jun 13, 2013 at 10:31 PM.
New Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 7
From: Houston, TX
Hi thanks for sharing your experience... I am looking for a reliable set up @ about 200 HP on my manual fit... Not going to race or go crazy with power in the future...How much do you think it will cost me to get the most basic setup and labor installed? If u r in ca, i am planning a trip to stop by there in Aug so I can drop it off for a couple of days... Thanks.
