skunk2 short throw shifter!!!???
Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 134
From: Lancaster, PA
I guess thats when you start talking real nice to the US guys. We could probably get it in and reship for cheaper than $25
Oh well, I'm still waiting for a reply for the shipping price from that guy on eBay...
Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 445
From: Tampa, FL
Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 445
From: Tampa, FL
just got the skunk2 SS installed. feel good! Real subtle, you'll notice the shortness after driving it, b/c I couldn't feel a difference just sitting in my seat and playing with the gears. Also feels a lot notchier, I like.
A few tips: Follow the DIY for the Mugen SS install, but you don't have to do a few steps: don't take out the cotter pin on the left side of the assembly and you don't have to mess with the linkage on the right side.. just pop out the black one on the left and you can twist the shift assembly to access the bottom.
The bushing on the ball of the shifter is a PITA to get off, keep working at it.. I pried it off with a screwdriver and some force.. Use a rubber mallet to put the bushing on the new extended skunk2 ball.. Use loctite definately on the set screws to keep the extension from coming off in the future. As for screwing the 4 bolts back in, it kinda sucks to get it aligned with the 4 added heighteners, so just work at it.. Took me prob 45min to install in the damn heat. Most time took was to take off the bushing on the ball and getting the set screws in really tight, and then finally screwing the 4 bolts together. Getting the console off was cake though. Good luck!
I like the shorty a lot, had one in my old car and loved it. Feels really solid now and definately shorter, but not as short as I would want.. but short enough!
A few tips: Follow the DIY for the Mugen SS install, but you don't have to do a few steps: don't take out the cotter pin on the left side of the assembly and you don't have to mess with the linkage on the right side.. just pop out the black one on the left and you can twist the shift assembly to access the bottom.
The bushing on the ball of the shifter is a PITA to get off, keep working at it.. I pried it off with a screwdriver and some force.. Use a rubber mallet to put the bushing on the new extended skunk2 ball.. Use loctite definately on the set screws to keep the extension from coming off in the future. As for screwing the 4 bolts back in, it kinda sucks to get it aligned with the 4 added heighteners, so just work at it.. Took me prob 45min to install in the damn heat. Most time took was to take off the bushing on the ball and getting the set screws in really tight, and then finally screwing the 4 bolts together. Getting the console off was cake though. Good luck!
I like the shorty a lot, had one in my old car and loved it. Feels really solid now and definately shorter, but not as short as I would want.. but short enough!
well i put it on and it took me about 30 min.it was easy except for the damb bushing wouldnt come off.other than that i was just fiddling to get the bolts lined up.easy as sunday morining overall.
now for impressions,you can definatly feel a diffrence,its notchy,soild and best of all shorter.me likey alot
now for impressions,you can definatly feel a diffrence,its notchy,soild and best of all shorter.me likey alot
just got the skunk2 SS installed. feel good! Real subtle, you'll notice the shortness after driving it, b/c I couldn't feel a difference just sitting in my seat and playing with the gears. Also feels a lot notchier, I like.
A few tips: Follow the DIY for the Mugen SS install, but you don't have to do a few steps: don't take out the cotter pin on the left side of the assembly and you don't have to mess with the linkage on the right side.. just pop out the black one on the left and you can twist the shift assembly to access the bottom.
The bushing on the ball of the shifter is a PITA to get off, keep working at it.. I pried it off with a screwdriver and some force.. Use a rubber mallet to put the bushing on the new extended skunk2 ball.. Use loctite definately on the set screws to keep the extension from coming off in the future. As for screwing the 4 bolts back in, it kinda sucks to get it aligned with the 4 added heighteners, so just work at it.. Took me prob 45min to install in the damn heat. Most time took was to take off the bushing on the ball and getting the set screws in really tight, and then finally screwing the 4 bolts together. Getting the console off was cake though. Good luck!
I like the shorty a lot, had one in my old car and loved it. Feels really solid now and definately shorter, but not as short as I would want.. but short enough!
A few tips: Follow the DIY for the Mugen SS install, but you don't have to do a few steps: don't take out the cotter pin on the left side of the assembly and you don't have to mess with the linkage on the right side.. just pop out the black one on the left and you can twist the shift assembly to access the bottom.
The bushing on the ball of the shifter is a PITA to get off, keep working at it.. I pried it off with a screwdriver and some force.. Use a rubber mallet to put the bushing on the new extended skunk2 ball.. Use loctite definately on the set screws to keep the extension from coming off in the future. As for screwing the 4 bolts back in, it kinda sucks to get it aligned with the 4 added heighteners, so just work at it.. Took me prob 45min to install in the damn heat. Most time took was to take off the bushing on the ball and getting the set screws in really tight, and then finally screwing the 4 bolts together. Getting the console off was cake though. Good luck!
I like the shorty a lot, had one in my old car and loved it. Feels really solid now and definately shorter, but not as short as I would want.. but short enough!
Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 445
From: Tampa, FL
well I must be calling it wrong, I understand that pin and white square bushing was easy to come off, but it was the little white bearing on the ball of the shifter itself that would not come off.
Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 445
From: Tampa, FL
I understand that part, I did mention that the black linkage on the left side needed to be unhooked, but the one on the right didn't need to be messed with. Nor the cotter pin on the far left does not need to be taken out. Those are just unnecessary steps for the skunk2 ss.