First Look: Tower Bar (Front and Rear)
Originally Posted by C2AUTOSPL
It has been confirmed. It'll be $98/each for the strut bars. Off course, there's always special pricing for FFmembers. I'll keep you guys posted when they are released.
Originally Posted by C2AUTOSPL
It has been confirmed. It'll be $98/each for the strut bars. Off course, there's always special pricing for FFmembers. I'll keep you guys posted when they are released.
Originally Posted by Tomh
The price i want to know about though is what i asked them about, which was making a blue one, which is a special order run as they mentioned, which would need a group buy, which also means a different price aswell.
Originally Posted by coldstorage5
whats the point of the bars??/ do they really help in handeling??
you won't feel a big difference unless u corner hard...i think the fitfreak edition should be able to choose colours hehe, cuz i like red too for my NHBP fit wif red trims keke...and i live in canada...how much would it cost in CAD?
Originally Posted by Ah Ed
you won't feel a big difference unless u corner hard...i think the fitfreak edition should be able to choose colours hehe, cuz i like red too for my NHBP fit wif red trims keke...and i live in canada...how much would it cost in CAD?
Originally Posted by Ah Ed
you won't feel a big difference unless u corner hard...i think the fitfreak edition should be able to choose colours hehe, cuz i like red too for my NHBP fit wif red trims keke...and i live in canada...how much would it cost in CAD?
-joe
no matter how hard you tighten the bolt that goes between the "mounts" and the "bar", there will always be play.. so you are basically only keeping the towers from pushing "in" towards the middle of the car, but you are not preventing it from going up and down
a one piece bar with trianglation is going to be far more superior, as it will do both AND give you more rigid body
-joe
a one piece bar with trianglation is going to be far more superior, as it will do both AND give you more rigid body
-joe
A 3 sided bar is way better then a regular 1 piece bar that just goes from one strut tower to the other. The 3 sided bars in the front bolt up to the firewall and add another level of rigidity that you cant get with just a regular one piece bar. In the rear the 3 sided bars bolt up to the floor and serve the same purpose as a 3 sided bar in the front.
I purchased the Cusco OS type front and rear stb's last week along with the front lower arm bar as I think the Cusco bars are made the best and are the stiffest, more so then J's or Tanabe. Mugen's front bar will be at the level of Cusco and maybe Spoon's but J's Racing design is weaker design then Cusco's.
I purchased the Cusco OS type front and rear stb's last week along with the front lower arm bar as I think the Cusco bars are made the best and are the stiffest, more so then J's or Tanabe. Mugen's front bar will be at the level of Cusco and maybe Spoon's but J's Racing design is weaker design then Cusco's.
Originally Posted by sillypuddy
jdmgd3, can you post a picure of the cusco bars?
-joe
-joe
There are pics in here of the front and rear stb. The Cusco bars arent as stiff in there design as the Carbing/Okuyama bars which are completely one piece, Cusco bars along with every other available for the Fit are technically 3 piece as the bar itself can be removed from the 2 end plates which in theory is a weak design compared to a true one piece design like the Carbing. But the Cusco is the next best thing to the Carbing which isnt available for a Fit.
It is not entirely the rigidity of the bar that affects how the tower bar functions. While seemingly logical, the one piece and three piece argument is a massively incorrect assumption on how tower bars function, and why they function.
The tower bar balances and evens out the loads placed on the suspension.
They key is in balancing the load, and the setting of the preload on the bar. One piece designs have no preload adjustment.
A one piece bar is a solid design, but it does not necessarily transfer the loads on the suspension any better or quicker than a 3 piece design with a preload adjustment.
Another thing to note is that flex and "play" are two seperate things.
All tower bars exhibit some type of flex. Tower bars function in a fashion similarly to stabilizers, with the exception that stabilizers twist. A tower bar balances the loads placed on the suspension, and adjusting the preload of the bar can make this effect more noticable, similar to going up a notch or adjusting endlinks on a stabilizer. There is a limit to this effect, but more on that later.
One piece tower bars sitting loosely on top of the shock towers, as well as three piece designs without preload adjustment will have some play, which is not necessarily a good thing, but also will not affect much in the grand scheme of things.
Even with an extremely aggressive tower bar setup that is braced to the firewall, if the tires and suspension are not sufficient, the loads required to fully take advantage of that design will never be realized. For example, a 3 point brace that triangulates to the firewall will not have a benefit on a vehicle running standard dampers and tires. Once a vehicle is modified enough to have extremely high grip, and exhibits a high amount of cornering forces, the tower bar can only do so much, and the load will then transfer to the next weakest link-- the factory uppermounts and pressed rubber bushing inside it.
As you can see, this invalidates the need for such a beefy tower bar design on a regular street car. Very few people, with the exception of purpose built track vehicles (running extremely high spring rates, solid pillowball mounts, modified suspension geometry, racing compound tires) will ever have the modifications to necessitate or exploit the benefits such a rugged design.
This is implausible on the majority of all daily driven vehicles, since very few people want an extremely uncomfortable, noisy car and chassis.
The Tanabe tower brace is inexpensive, effective, and has a preload adjustment for benefitting and improving the handling the street driven vehicle. It is not the end-all-be-all design, but like stated earlier, those designs are for the most part unnecessary on the majority of vehicles out there.
Hopefully this clears some confusion, and gives a better understanding of how things work!
Remember, that it is not any one part that makes a suspension, but it is the sum of many parts working together that make a competitive suspension setup.
The tower bar balances and evens out the loads placed on the suspension.
They key is in balancing the load, and the setting of the preload on the bar. One piece designs have no preload adjustment.
A one piece bar is a solid design, but it does not necessarily transfer the loads on the suspension any better or quicker than a 3 piece design with a preload adjustment.
Another thing to note is that flex and "play" are two seperate things.
All tower bars exhibit some type of flex. Tower bars function in a fashion similarly to stabilizers, with the exception that stabilizers twist. A tower bar balances the loads placed on the suspension, and adjusting the preload of the bar can make this effect more noticable, similar to going up a notch or adjusting endlinks on a stabilizer. There is a limit to this effect, but more on that later.
One piece tower bars sitting loosely on top of the shock towers, as well as three piece designs without preload adjustment will have some play, which is not necessarily a good thing, but also will not affect much in the grand scheme of things.
Even with an extremely aggressive tower bar setup that is braced to the firewall, if the tires and suspension are not sufficient, the loads required to fully take advantage of that design will never be realized. For example, a 3 point brace that triangulates to the firewall will not have a benefit on a vehicle running standard dampers and tires. Once a vehicle is modified enough to have extremely high grip, and exhibits a high amount of cornering forces, the tower bar can only do so much, and the load will then transfer to the next weakest link-- the factory uppermounts and pressed rubber bushing inside it.
As you can see, this invalidates the need for such a beefy tower bar design on a regular street car. Very few people, with the exception of purpose built track vehicles (running extremely high spring rates, solid pillowball mounts, modified suspension geometry, racing compound tires) will ever have the modifications to necessitate or exploit the benefits such a rugged design.
This is implausible on the majority of all daily driven vehicles, since very few people want an extremely uncomfortable, noisy car and chassis.
The Tanabe tower brace is inexpensive, effective, and has a preload adjustment for benefitting and improving the handling the street driven vehicle. It is not the end-all-be-all design, but like stated earlier, those designs are for the most part unnecessary on the majority of vehicles out there.
Hopefully this clears some confusion, and gives a better understanding of how things work!
Remember, that it is not any one part that makes a suspension, but it is the sum of many parts working together that make a competitive suspension setup.
Last edited by Tanabe USA; May 31, 2006 at 08:49 PM.




