Forgive my noobness, but 4-2-1 means the four exhaust ports go to two tubes then down to one that mates with the downpipe?

 

Yes, but in the Fit's case, we have a 4-1 header design that connects directly to the catalytic converter pipe.

 

Okay, thanks. That was what I thought, but was unsure if some company had achieved the 4-2-1 by integrating the downpipe into the equation. It sounds like it doesn't exist which might explain why no one has one nor have they had it tuned yet.

 

Weapon-R has a race header which is a 2-pc 4-2-1.

 

Got a call from the dealer today to bring the car in next week to get the window switch recall done.

Pulled the carpet out and power washed it and clean up the rest of the interior tonight after work.

 

The Weapon R race header is the only long tube design header offer for the fit. A few people on here had it but this is going back years ago.

The only negative feedback I have heard on the header was fitment issues. Some said it would hit the subframe. But this was also on the first gen header and I believe WR fixed the issue. One person even said they made it a 1 piece instead of the 2 piece design. We'll see what the shop thinks about bets header for the power and what I end up with.

 

Swapped the 400lb rear Eibach springs for 500lbs and lowered the rear approximately a 1/4 of an inch. The car currently sits even with a tight 2 finger gap all around with the 195/55R15s on at this time.

 

It was the 1st gen WR race header that had fitment issues. I believe WR made a 2nd one that is a 2-pc 4-2-1 race header. Goes for around $400 on eBay last time I checked. Pretty pricey, but I guess they know that they are the only ones that have the header for now (Still hoping that someone will make performance parts for our GD).

 

$400 is not to pricy if you think of what this replaces. My MR header and down pipe ran me like $350. Although T1R isn't available these days but that ran like $600 for both products.

One nice thing about the WR is that it is a long tube header (the only long time avail for the fit). Hopefully i'll get some feedback from the shop this week about what will be the best header.

 

Honestly, its WR or nothing unless you care about your catalytic converter. There isn't another Race Header out there for the fit.

 

Bought a larger airbox/filter/piping from another larger car and engine. I need some time to adapt it...

 

Swapped out stock struts w. 158k km on them for new kyb gr2 and installed h&r sport springs all around car sits 2" lower in front and 1 5/8" lower in back. Greatly improved handling! I have a set of new shocks for the back but am thinking of getting the Koni yellows instead.

Next up is a progress rsb and stop tech rotors/new pads

 

Weapon R makes both the 2pc one as well as the 1pc 4-2-1 header,

1pc


2pc

 

I only said pricey because most people expect something lower than that price. But I do agree that for $400, it is a decent price considering it's the only race header available now for the GD3.

1st pic is a 4-1 design, similar to the oem header but with bigger runners same with most of the aftermarket ones that came out for our cars (Megan, T1R, and the like).

 

Weapon R claims it's also a 4-2-1 header, and I can see why it is theoretically a 4-2-1 header. It's not a true 4-2-1 like their 2pc one however.

 

Did the wiper mod, didn't need to take the wiper off like other threads said you did, although its probably easier to do it that way haha.

I also painted the engine cover and a temporary license plate relocate because I got bored, took me a while to decide on a colour but i think white was an alright choice. I'll probably end up buying a different cover eventually anyways

parked beside an S2000

 

PS. Sorry for the large pictures lol

 

I think the T1R is the only 4-1 header that has bigger (noticeable) primaries compared to the rest out there. BUt the WR race header sure is purdy. Really curious to see the power gains over the other headers with their down pipe.

 

Got the A/C issue "fixed": a dumb garage stated it was broken, while it seems it only had to be "properly" recharged (no leaks detected).

I should have the ball bearing alternator pulley replaced, since the "genius" who installed the lighter pulley damaged the original bearing. And now there's a boring noise out of it...

 

I completed the JDM wiper mod today following member "willitfit's" DIY from 2010.

I ended up doing twice before I got it on the third time. I overlooked breaking out the plastic tab in the middle of the sprocket.

I read the thread through and some people said they didn't need to break anything. And also, the resting position of my mechanism looked exactly like the final image in his DIY. So I thought I had it. Guess 3 times a charm, lol.