I'd like to rotate my tires.

I have a floor jack and 4 jack stands.

Where do I put the floor jack and where do I put the jack stands? I'm familiar with the jack points, but if I use them with the floor jack where would I place the jack stands? ....or is there somewhere else to use the floor jack?

Any pictures, diagrams showing this?

Thanks...

 

There are many tips in the DIY section. Helps to check out the different threads. Here's a good thread with pictures: https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...tml#post907932
Personally I just use a ramp for oil changes and 2 floor jacks for tire rotation. Good luck.

 

Supposing you have radials you should switch ties between front and back on the same side of the car. Those who say that tires can be rotated are incorrect as threy have never manufactured tire with a bwlt. Once a tire is rotated the belt takes a 'set' and rotating opposite to that will cause the belt to ripple. That is difficult to balance and can cause the tire to de-laminate. There are those who will swear that belts cannot ripple but exams last year show it still does. Perhaps if you drive gently enough they might not but the best technique is to switch on the same side.
You might ask Pirelli about their recent experience along those lines.
If you don't have radials the correct way is to cross switch between corners so the tire rotates both clockwise and coiunterclockwise and betwen front and rear to 'even' out the wear.

PS there are lots of diagrams on the net but its not hard to describe.

There are marked places with two little dis cuts in the framr rails, one set front and one back.Thats where you center the jacks. When you jack for radials raiuse one side of the car with handbrake firmly applied and one wheel remaining o the ground blocked so it can't roll.
Using a good wrench remove the wheel nuts in secession across from each other as much as possible - every other time. Remove both front and rear tires and wheels.. check the tires for problems and afterward if OK reinstall the tires in the opposite position from removal.
Lightly lubricate the stud threads with high temp grease and tighten lugnuts again opposite in order after you install the lugnuts by hand so they won't be cross-threaded unless you aree really ham-handed. Sneak up on the lugnuts being firmly tightened again in succession and be sure they are tightened to 80 to 100 lb-ft of torque. Yes a torque wrench is highly advisable. repeat on the other side.
If you have non-radials it si a bit more involved as you have to raise the car separately to rotate tires which is why we recommend rotating tires like they were radials anyhow. Other wise you pretty much have to raise all four corners and that needs 4 jacks. When you do that raise the front of the Fit with jacks or with stands and then jack up the rear. Make damn sure the stands or jacks are firmly and correctly placed under the frame rail locations. Let em down rear first and then front. Don't slam it down because thats not nice to drum brakes that are tight with emergency handle.
Now be careful. take your time. Its no NASCAR pit stop.
cheers.

 

Thanks, Mahout - I get cupped back tires on my Fit.

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/1st-...ar-uneven.html

I was wondering if there is a place to use the floor jack to jack up the front so I can place the jack stands at the jack points - ditto for the rear of the car.

 

OK - I have a torque wrench.

Really? Seems like that might make the lugnets loosen.

 

Oiled lug nuts or lug bolts, or any nuts or bolts, will not loosen just because they're oiled or greased. The preload on the fastener will maintain parts clamped together, threads lubed or not. However, the lubrication will increase the preload on the lug bolt or wheel stud for the same given torque. That is why torque specs that do not specify lubrication are always meant to be dry. Wheel torque specs are for dry threads. But the extra preload added buy lubricating threads and torquing to a dry spec should still be just fine for lug bolts/nuts. If you want to explore it further you can find that the industry accepted standard for deriving a torque is = KFD where K is usually .2 for most dry metal to metal contact and F = desired preload force (usually around 70% of material yield strength) and D is major diameter of bolt.

I use anti seize on lugs for decades with no issues, and no corrosion.

 

YAY one more person that gets it. ^^^^^

 

The Honda manuals say to put the fronts onto the back, then cross the rears before installing onto the front. Just sayin'


We have never experienced problems using that suggested method. That said, we are diligent about doing tire rotation between 6 to 10K miles on our cars.

 

factory tires are good with the back and front switch.

My new tires, example, are rotational and MUST stay on same side, just swap front and rear.

Id do closer to 5k rotations, rather then 6-10k. no harm in doing it faster, and it guarentees much smoother tire wear and tear

 

The OP is asking a specific question regarding safe jacking points. Our cars have four safe jacking points along the perimeter of the undercarriage. They are only large enough to place either a jack or a jack stand, but not both at the same time. So, the question is: If you are jacking the car at, for example, the left front jacking point, just behind the left front wheel, and you want to use a jack stand in that position, what do you do? Set the car down on a part of the frame that is near the left front jacking point but not specified as a safe jacking point?

 

OR use the spare tire and do each tire one at a time. total of 5 tire removals altogether


If you jack the front high enough, you should be able to slap a jackstand under the rear of the same side

 

This is the method Honda and most auto and tire manufacturers recommend (providing of course you don't have directional tires). I've used this method since auto and tire manufacturers started recommending it over the front back swap about twenty years ago. Just a note, I've never had tire problems until the current set of Yokahama Avidenvigor (directional) tires. Using the "front back swap" method, my tires are cupped terribly. No more directional tires for me.

 

Torque ratings on nuts is actually the minimum that nuts won't loosen; light lubrication insures the nut is tightened accurately and not reduced due to drag on the threads, which indeed can cause the nut to loosen because its not really tight. consult any ME or Machinists handbooks.

 

Fr <-> Bk / Bk <-> Fr on directional thread tires. Left Back to Right Front/Right Back to Left Front on conventional thread tires as per recommendation.

 

Good point. We have jacked hundreds of cars away from the shop even there we find that having a jack stand as close to the lift jack is sufficient to hold the vehice up but if thats a concern pick a place under the car that is a fixed part of te chassis. Still, we, and others, believe you only need to rotate wheels/tires on the same side regardless of the type of tire.
Course, you can be cheap like me and only replace tires one axle at a time, ignoring that rotation stuff anyway. never seemed to do anything for my car.

 

Just have 2 floor jacks... Tire rotation does not require crawling under so it's not a critical safety issue. But definitely jack stands and more (preferably a two person job) if the job requires crawling under. Just me...

 

Good point but here we add stands required anytime the vehicle can change location and hands, fingers, or other extremities endangered. For those who have taken a DYI'er to the emergency room, there's no better memory to enforce that.

 

I hear 'ya... public safety, liabilities, etc... Not to downplay injury to extremities but still not fatal compared to a car on your chest with no one around to hear you yell.

Sorry, now

 

Yup, back to topic.


With the Fit, I jack the front (using the jack point behind the front wheel) really high with my floor jack. That allows me to place a stand under the rear wheel jack point.

Then I change the tires around (on the Fit, that's usually the snows because of the season). Tires coming off get marked to thier new positions for the next season.

The CRV runs much higher mileage. I have to rotate twice during the summer. So, without snows, I just temporarily mount the full size spare until the tires are in the proper positions. (How many of us check the integrity of the spare at least once a year???)

When the wheels are off, I check the rubber bushings (often spraying them with silicone so that they stay supple). The Fit has grease-able front end links now, so I give those fittings a squirt with the grease gun.

 

You can always jack up the car from the subframe. Slide the jack under the front, place it under sub frame and jack up. THis way you will have both sides off the ground, and you will be able to put two jack stands on either side on the proper spots easily.