I use the stock jack points to raise it then on the front I put the jackstands further in on the subfloor just behind the "A" frame there is an access hole right there that keeps the jackstand from slipping sideways. In the rear I put the jackstand on the bottom of the spring holder.

 

My technique is to jack the car from the middle and I place my jack stands under the metal tabs behind the wheels (the regular jacking points). For the rear of the car, you can jack the car from the triangular metal cone like thingie located between the rear wheels. I don't have that because instead I have a hidden hitch so I use the central bolts of the hidden hit h to jack the car. For the front, you can use the middle of the crossmember, located between the front wheels. There is a square metal "hump" in the metal that you can use. However, I found that the small "cup end" of my jack would scratch and dent the metal square so I use a piece of wood (a hard piece of rubber would probably be better) between the jack and the car.

When i change wheels, it's usually between my winter and summer rims so i do it one wheel at a time but if you are rotating a single set, you'll have to use jack stands. Here's my technique for quickly swapping wheels:

-jack the car until the suspension starts rising but the tire is still touching the ground. Use a breaker bar to break the lugs. This way, you won't damage the transmission by applying torque to a wheel if you are in gear or have the annoying problem of a wheel spinning freely if you are in neutral.

-jack the car farther until the wheels are off the ground. Place jack stands. I remove the deep socket from my breaker bar and hand loosen the lugs with the socket. It's Waaay faster and convenient than fiddling with a bar. I remove the highest lug last so that its easier to control the wheel and remove it once the lugs are off.

-to replace the wheels, do the opposite. Starting with the top lug (to aid in holding the wheel in place), hand tighten the lugs in a star or x pattern (never clockwise or counterclockwise). I sometimes like to give them a slight extra tightening with my breaker bar.

-lower the car onto the ground. Use a torque wrench and torque the lugs in a star pattern until you have reached the desired torque. I use 85 foot pounds (5 greater than spec).

Remember to use chocks or bricks for added safety. Also, remember to have your car in gear if you jack the rear since the handbrake has no effect on the front wheels.

 

Good. Not always very stable, but good.


My "big" floor jack won't reach that front cross member unless I use my "small" floor jack on one of the side positions to create a little room. Also, I put a hockey puck in the metal cup of the jacks to prevent scratching.

 

It's not the most stable but like I said, when raising multiple wheels this way, jack stands are absolutely mandatory. When breaking the lugs, as long as the wheels touch the ground, there really is no danger. When removing the wheels, jack stands must be used.

Hockey puck is a good idea, I'm surprised you even know what that is over there in LA I drive my car onto 2X4s so that I can roll my jack under my car.

 

When raise the rear from that cone-shaped thing, you are balancing the car on three points: the two front wheels and the cone. That's the time when it can be unstable. After you get your jackstands in position and lower the car onto them, you're good.

That's all I meant.

 

The rear wheels cupping are my motivation to rotate them. They get pretty loud and have to be replaced well before they are worn.

 

I think that I'll make a little ramp so I can get the floor jack to the front middle spot.

Thanks for all the answers!

 

Simple 2 x 4s do the job for me, and I have a Fit Sport and I don't have a low profile jack so no need to get out the circular saw! The only nuisance is that it is hard to crank the jack since the arm is nearly completely under the front bumper.

If you don't already have some rhino amps, I would definitely get some. They are cheap and a must for easy oil changes!

 

Cupping is no reason to rotate tires; you need to asddress the cause, such as shocks or alignment or suspension xetup.

 

4 cupped tires are even louder. I would check the shocks for wear. Just me.