The OEM front brake rotors on my 2009 Honda Fit Sport have warped twice on me, resulting in noticeable shaking when I brake at highway speeds. This, of course, has happened slightly after the warranty on the work has expired. I drive a lot (102k miles and counting), and I live in Phoenix, Arizona, where it gets ridiculously hot in the summer. Both the dealer and a brake shop have told me this is a heat dissipation issue, and suggested that I replace the OEM brake rotors with drilled and slotted rotors. Does anyone have a suggestion of which aftermarket rotors to get and what I should be paying for them? Does anyone in the metro-Phoenix area have a suggestion of a good maintenance shop (the dealers in Arizona all seem to overpriced and generally be pretty horrible).

 

First off, I personally would say just say "no" to drilled rotors. I have seen that over time from the numerous heat cycles during braking that drilled rotors tend to begin cracking ("spider webbing" out) around the vent holes in the rotor.

Here's an example. Note: Look at how the "spider webbing" actually connects from two vent holes to create the fracture in the rotor.



I would recommend either dimple or slotted rotors (which I run, EBC USR850s from Summit Racing), dimpled and slotted or perhaps even the Brembo solid/blank rotors. The reasoning behind that is the structural integrity of the rotor isn't AS compromised/diminished as that of its drilled due to the ventilation points not being completely machined/casted through the rotor's brake pad contact area(s).

 

Do not get drilled. Slots are OK. I have never had a warped rotor and I live in az and I track it hard. Could be the pads u are using? What kind do u have?

 

I second the EBC rotors, but if you want to spend a bit less: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3295DS-FRONT-2pcs-Performance-Sport-Drilled-Dimpled-Slotted-Brake-Disc-Rotor-/321212470343?fits=Make%3AHonda%7CModel%3AFit%7CYear%3A2009&hash=item4ac9c15447&vxp=mtr

 

You say "warped twice on you". Does that mean they warped once, you had them turned, and they warped again? Or they warped, you replaced them and they warped again? If so, what did you replace the OEM rotors with?

Turning rotors won't get rid of that permanently. They will always warp again due to thickness variation after turning. Once your rotors are warped, just throw them in the trash and get new ones. I don't even think drilled, slotted, dimpled, fairy sprinkled rotors are needed. Just get Brembo blanks and some new pads.

I lived in southern Nevada for years and never warped rotors on any of my cars. All of them similar brake setup to the Fit (size, single caliper, etc).

 

We have several Fit drivers who think screaming around racetracks is a great thing to do on weekends; we all use Hawk HPS pads and so far in more than 5 years none of us have had brake problems. In your heat tho we might add that you rotors might be suffering from pad residue on the rotors that appear to be warped rotors. The residue appears to be attaching to the rotors when the car stops and the hot pads rest in one place If you have the chance have your rotors very lightly trued without changing pads.
As far as drilled or grooved rotors none of us believe they're worth the cost as a couple have tried them apparently without benefit for the cost.
So we say true your rotors making sure they exceed the minimum thicknes and switch to the Hawk HPS. And if you change rotors make damn sure you get good ones, like Bembos, not China subs, and they of course cost more.
good luck. the metalugy of rotors is critical and if you already had some 'cheap' rotors, they shouild have warped.

 

All parts on my Fit are OE and I have been servicing the vehicle at dealerships (something I would like to avoid in the future). The first time I experienced brake shudder, I was told that the rotors were too far gone to be machined, and would have to be replaced, so I had them replaced by the dealership with the OE part. Seven months later, the brake shudder returned, and I discovered the dealer that had done the work only warrantied it for six months. This time, I was told that the rotors could be machined, so I had them machined. It is now nine months later, and the problem has returned. The same dealership suggested this was a heat dissipation issue, and suggested drilled or slotted rotors.

Since the rest of the car is OE, would the EBC USR850s be overkill? So far upgrading to Brembo goes, does anyone have a part number for Brembo blanks? I searched the catalog at Automotive Aftermarket Catalog - MyCarParts and all that comes up is replacement brake drums and drum brake shoes.

 

The EBC USR850s can potentially be problematic depending on the type of driving you primarily do in combination with the brake pad you use with the rotor.

For example: I use to run Hawk's Performance Ceramic pads with my USRs and had issues with my brakes being COLD during freeway stints (5 to 10 miles or more) and I'd come to a situation where I needed to panic stop. During those moments I would experience braking that was "less than OEM" until the pads developed some heat (took maybe a full second or so of firm/constant braking to build decent heat).

I recently ditched those pads for Carbotech's AX6, which is an aggressive cold biting pad designed with autocross use in mind. Since the installation of the AX6s, I have yet to have any cold bite issues during braking at this time. In fact, during this last weekend I was cut off a multiple times by "incompetent drivers" on I-59 when going/returning from the Tail of the Dragon and actually got my front tires to lock/chirp at 80 MPH (but still remain manageable).

Tire Rack used to have the Brembo blanks listed on their site (at least for my generation Fit) but they do indeed exist.

 

I've cured my vibrations by doing this...
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...tallation.html

 

Another thing I would check is to make sure that Ur rear drums are adjusted properly. That way Ur front brakes are doing all of the stopping.

Where is most of Ur driving because brakes start to pulsate do to driving style. If Ur on the highway a lot or driving on hills make sure u down shift and engine brake as well. I work for a Chevy dealer and our impalas had braking issues for people that drive on hills and we had to reffer them to there owners manual for hill driving. Which states to down shift so Ur not constantly on the brakes.

 

Crossdrilled and slotted rotors are perfectly fine for use.

maybe 6 swirls of 3 holes is really all you need to air cool it.

Slotted rotors are good for keeping the pads clean, but htey do reduce the life a bit.


Me personally, I would advice for simplicity to get new blank rotors and upgrade to a stronger and longer life pad. Ceramic is WAY better then semi metallic (semi metallic cheap pads create the most dust!!)

EDIT check your sources! Not all Brembo blanks are German made! Just like not all Hondas are japanese built, only japanese designed!

 

No...rear brake adjustment is not a factor. Mine were adjusted all of the time. The dealer even replaced my front rotors twice under warranty! If you brake hard all of the time, you get thickness variation (incorrectly call warping). The front brakes are just too small... Once I installed the ITR front brakes, all vibrations went away.

 

My brakes are still 100% factory from when car was new. Now close to 19k miles, the rbakes STILL look brand new! no vibrating, no grooves, pads appear to have lost nothing, and no noises!

Fluid level in brake master has not changed either. It WILL go down with wear on pads and shoes

 

OK...so you're driving Miss Daisy. A BBK is not in your future.

 

uh, no.

I go to the drag strip once every three weeks for fun, I drive EVERY day, 60-80% city depending on schedule.

I have a manual, I can use the motor/tranny to slow me down quite a bit.

And I drive like a teenager 50% of the time.

My brakes should by most eyes, be used up quite a bit.

Seems anyone with brake issues with less then 40k miles most likely comes to a complete stop from a hard brake.

I like being gradual. If I have to brake hard, I will ALMOST stop, but then let off and then lightly reapply to stop.

WOOT!! glad we are in a lightweight car! brakes last forever!

 

A drag strip is only hard on your tires and transmission... Go drive on a road circuit or a mountain road and see how long your brakes hold out.

 

To the OP: I have about 106k on my 09 driving in NYC and NJ for work and pleasure....

needless to say I went through the stock pads fairly quick and thought to replace them with ebc greenstuffs and slotted rotors.....Later I replaced the slotted with some drilled and slotted ebay specials and had issues with the brakes I purchased (ultimax's)....

Those rotors tore through those pads like a grater on mutz!!! I had to clean wheels every other day !!!

so I decided to get ebc blanks and oem pads....much happier.

I'm not sure if the oem rotors or cheap or if mech's just manhandle things when performing brake changes but I do know there are several factors that lead to the shuddering you're experiencing that you should look into:

1) Break-In periods.....if the pads arent broken in properly (no hard stops for the first 500 miles after a change) deposits will burn into the rotor leading to hard spots and glazing.

2) "try not air them out" when I do have to stop fast, I do not like to rest my foot on the pedal and allow the superhot pad to be pressed against my rotor so I engage the e-brake and take my foot off for the duration of the light...

3) The notorious impact wrench fiend! mechs LOVE blasting lug nuts onto cars with no regard to torque specs and the like and I've heard that when done in that way, it can lead to uneven pressures directly on your rotor which could lead to warping.....


So my ultimate advice would be to do your own brake changes and after a few you'll be so glad you did....matter fact do you own tire rotations, brake jobs, and car washes!!!

 

Exactly wrong to what all the brake manufactures say to do...on both sides of the Atlantic. AP Racing (of England) and StopTech (of California) publish "bedding in" procedures for breaking in the brakes. They also say to repeat the bedding in process of the brakes start to vibrate. I suggest you do a little reading before writing garbage.

 

It might help if you specified "right."

Depending on the manufacturer, taking it easy for a few hundred miles is exactly what the doctor ordered...

Honda's recommendation:
Avoid hard braking for the first 200
miles (300 km).

Other manufacturers. source

 

The difference between high performance (competition) brakes and OEM brakes that are inadequate...as the OP and others complain.