That's a good idea Orataro. My first fix attempt peeled after 1 hour, and I actually use carpet tape for some scatter carpets, so that is definitely worth a shot. Thanks!

 

Applied the passenger side graphics. Driver's side hopefully next weekend. Front and rear graphics in my build thread.

 

For an additional $38 including return shiping, Rexing allowed me to trade in my V1 for the V1P. The difference is the V1P is a dual camera, the rear being waterproof. So I pulled out the old 12V adapter because the new one puts out more milliamps an apparently it needs the extra juice to power the rear camera. A few internet posts mention the need to use the new power supply.

I chose to install the rear camera inside the cabin though. In the back, there is a little plastic cover that hides an attachment point for a baby seat. I ran the wiring through that, through the headliner and around the weatherstripping on the passenger side, then back to the base unit. Looks really clean and the rear camera is hidden with the tinted windows. The camera is unobtrusive when looking through the rear view mirror.

The view of the rear could be better. Since it is a wide angle, you get a lot of the top of the hatch but you you get a good angle of the rear and the sides.

Cons:
Rear camera resolution isn't as good as the front camera.
Rear camera isn't easy to point. There is no swivel or rotation so you have to position it right, and then bend the mount for up/down.

It also is GPS capable with an additional module, but I prefer not to add that unit.

Here is a link for the specs: https://www.amazon.com/Channel-Dashb.../dp/B01EX8ATKK

 

anyone using a magnetic drain plug for their oil pan? i bought the greddy one for Hondas (m14 x 1.5) but it didnt fit (unless i received the incorrect part) when i tried to change my oil last time. my oil change is coming up again soon and wanted to get one for this time

 

I'd like to get one, but Amazon doesn't have one - just a regular plug.

https://smile.amazon.com/Dorman-6523...2015+honda+fit

 

I've got a Fumoto valve so a magnetic plug isn't an option.

 

Clever. The worst part of changing the oil is dealing with that stupid belly pan.

 

The purpose of that "stupid" belly pan is for aerodynamics, to smooth the air flow under the car and improve gas mileage. Blame the EPA, if necessary, not Honda.

 

Looking to by some aftermarket struts and shocks that I can use with my tanabe lowering springs. I think my front strut is failing since I keep hearing knocking while I drive. Would like some with adjustable dampers. Looked at Koni's but not sure they make them for our car. If anyone is running some on there Fit can you let me know where you bought them?

 

I don't think adjustability is necessary, especially if you're just daily driving it. Check Koni direct or Auto anything. The GE struts work great on the GK.

 

My son and I went a-racin' today! Video is here: link



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Yes, it is nice to have it there, but those two rear attachments are not very well designed. I had to buy replacements for both of our Fits. I put two brand new ones on my son's car, but I was unable to remove one of them immediately after installing it. The screw just turns and turns without backing out. The next time I change the oil, I'll have to pry it out and break it. I'm going to take another look at Dzuz fasteners.

 

Yet another sign that engineers may not make the best mechanics. An elegant engineering design does not make the most effective one in the field.

A gross example of that was the Chevy Monza .... beautiful body design meant for a twin rotor Wankle engine ... but necessity (fuel efficiency) forced a small block V8 under the hood. But in order to do simple tune up jobs, the engine had to be removed! No engineer should be allowed to design any component that he/she can work on in the field using simple tools. (Not referring to electronics).

 

 

Actually, the Monza was a restyled H Body, the original being the Chevrolet Vega (disclaimer - my first car was a '71 Vega). True that the Wankle was intended, but false about the V8 being the "fallback" engine. Chevrolet's engine team had a 4-cylinder engine design well underway, but GM Corporate nixed it and designed their own "corporate" engine, which was a four cylinder all-aluminum block with a cast iron head. Great in theory, a disaster in execution. The engine would be revised and was reliable by the end of the H Body's run, but the reputation was already established by that time.

There was at least one prototype Vega built within GM with a V8, but none ever made it to production. The Cosworth Vega was the closest they came to a "high performance" Vega, and even it got strangled by smog controls. The Monza got both V8s and V6s, but as noted correctly in your post, it was a cramped fit and necessitated unbolting an engine mount and jacking the engine to get to all the plugs.

Interestingly, I put a Buick V6 in my '71 Vega (first production year), and the engine mounts out of a V6 Monza bolted right up after drilling out the sheet metal covering the mounting points in the subframe – the car was indeed designed with a V6/V8 in mind right from the start, it would seem.

The Many Faces of the GM H Body

Absolutely agree about engineers who've never had grease under their nails (plenty of those where I work!). I have a 1950 Ford 8N tractor that I farm with (on 15 acres). The original N Series was introduced in 1939 (as the 9N), and was designed to replace a team of horses. Therefore, it was designed to be repaired by farmers who had little mechanical experience. Two wrench sizes cover most of the nuts and bolts on the tractor, for example (and wrenches in those sizes came with the tractor).

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Thanks for straightening out my trivia bank. I too owned a 1971 Vega coupe, BRG. Nice little car that lived too short a life. Mine drank gas like it was going out of style until I read story that said that the carb wasn't screwed down tight. Took it to the dealer, showed the service writer the article and suggested LockTite ... removed, applied new gasket, and a healthy dose of LockTite ... problem solved. The engine was a vibrating machine.

Visited a teacher friend of my now ex. Her husband had a twin cam Cosworth Vega, black and gold. Took a short ride ... a real kick.

 

I have a saved eBay and CL search for Cosworth Vegas - that would be my 'midlife crisis' car.

After putting a sleeved engine in mine, I could touch 30mpg on the highway, but probably averaged closer to 25-ish. I had tuned headers and a glasspack muffler, which sounded great on the car. It had the 4-speed manual, and would chirp second gear all day long. It had about 220,000 miles on it when I sold it (which might be a world record for a Vega). We ultimately had four Vegas (one was a parts car), and the pic below shows the three runners (mine's in the middle, post Buick-ectomy):



Some additional pics are here in another article I wrote over at CC.

We now return you to your regularly-scheduled Honda Fit show!

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I had a tire patched from a nail I happened to pick up commuting last week. Unfortunately, nothing more exciting than that has happened to the Fit recently.

 

I'm taking my car to Raleigh this weekend to get it tinted. Can't wait! Going for the darkest legal tint that I can apply on all legal windows in VA (keep it uniform). This allows me to visit my brother down there and test Interstate gas mileage. There is a tint guy down there that is incredible.

 

I have found that, for me, the yellow boundary lines on the rear camera display were distracting. I opened 'camera settings' and removed them. Now I have another rear view mirror w/o the distractions.