Debating on picking up a set of drag dr20's, the closest I can seem to find is a +40. Just curious as to what offset you guys are running...pictures are a plus!

 

for rims from between 7-8" wide.
i would say +40 to +55 offset is safe to run.
any lower you'd probably have to pull your fender.

 

we'd say specifically 45 mm offset without fender work.as far as rim width, match your width to the tire you want to run using tire rack spec data. generally the lower the profile the wider the rim

 

The plan is to run a stock 185/60r15's on a 7 inch wheel. However I can only seem to find the Drag dr20 wheel in a +40. Just afraid to rub so I haven't bit the bullet yet.

 

ET has a relation to rim width. Keep that in mind. +40 on a 6" wheel will fit much different than +40 on a 7" wheel.

I have +42 (10mm spacers in the rear, so +32 back wheels) 16X7, 185/55/16 and I get a bit of front rub on deep compression road dips w/ 0 camber. I tipped the front wheels in @ - 1.5 degrees camber and tucked the plastic wheel well liners above the top mounting tabs and removed the top two pushpins. No rubbing whatsoever now. No pulled or rolled fenders either.

I want to convert to 205/50/16 tires eventually, but these will poke out 11mm more. I'll be OK in the back; I'm not sure I'll be able to make the front work.

Any ideas?

 

if your offset is 45 mm you can easily mount 185/55x16 tires on appropriate rims. if its 40 mm not so good. why not 6mm spacers on 53mm OEM bringing offset to 47mm?you can't tell the difference between 45 and 47 mm offset wheels/tires and that surely works.

the width of the wheel rim has no effect on the placement of the tire; the offset moves the centerline of the tire out (or in) from the hub. Since the tire splits evenly on each side of the centerline only the width of the wire tread itself will rub if the offset is pushed out enough and/or the width of the tire tread is wide enough. If you don't want to alter the fenderwell stick with 45 mm offset. You can also get about 47 mm offset with 6 mm (1/4")spacers on the hubs behind the wheels if you want a lesser cost item
be forewarned than modifying your fenders can easily result in a no trade-in situation because dealers have been bitten enough that mods are verbotten. .If your fit can't be returned to OEM its not advisable.
ps spacers with thicknesses greater than 6 mm will result in lugnuts on too short lugbolts until you replace the lugnuts with longer ones. the engineering rule is the nut must fully engage the bolt for at least the diameter of the bolt. for 12 mm lugs that's 8 full turns after the nut fully grabs the 12x1.5 bolt. the nut screws 1.5 mm per revolution so to get 12 mm it takes 8 fully engaged revolutions.
as a side note if you dosomething like that and your insurance company finds out you may have just defeated your insurance coverage.
Modifying a vehicle has lots of caveats nowdays so make sure you do it right. that includes making sure your lugnuts match the wheels you have.

 

Sound advice.

I'm at +42 16x7, with 10mm spacers on back(10mm longer studs as well). On pretty big compression dips the fronts will just lightly buzz the liners. I increased front camber and no problems at all now. With my factory 16x6 I had a 25mm spacer in the rear and it never rubbed at all. The issue is the increased width of the rim because @+42 almost all the additional width is to the outside (21mm).

The 185/55/16 mounted to them is my focus now because it is such an odd, limited size and the quality is not as good as I would like. 205/50/16 has a better selection and gives almost identical diameter, but increases width 11mm both ways. I have the room inside, but outside will be tight.
+45 would have been better but for some reason there aren't a lot of wheels out there in 16x7. I'm not sure why.

I agree on factory settings and everything must be reversible to factory settings. In fact, I am retaining every original part I change so I can change it back when the time comes. No rolled or pulled fenders for me.

 

Here's what I have right now:

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/3rd-...r-springs.html

 

Alright, I'm still trying different things. I have pocket pit app on my phone and I used it to put camber in my car. It's pretty accurate, but unfortunately when you increase neg camber, it also increases toe. I put about -1.3 in both sides with SPC bolts and I've been testing it the last couple of days. 16x7 +42 with 185/55/16 definitely clears.

I use a framing square to check fender clearance by holding the long side straight across the diameter of the tire and then measure tire to fender with the top of the square. I've got a good 3/8" at the closest point without camber bolts, much more clearance with camber. I think I went over board with tucking the fender liners AND adding bolts, plus, without an alignment yet it handles unsatisfactory. Steering memory is reduced and the tires buzz a bit like snow tires. I'm not sure if zeroing out the toe and leaving the camber will reduce these unwanted traits, but I decided to pull the camber bolts and put the stock ones back. I just don't feel comfortable with those skinny eccentric bolts anyway. I don't trust them.

So now, the only change I have is I pulled the two top pushpins, set the car back to 0 camber, torqued everything down and hit up my trusty dipping roads. No buzz. Nothing. U-turns, nothing. Works great. I think the problem is the plastic liner pins that hold it to the fender. They stick out enough to buzz.

After about 5-10 miles of this, I went back home, re-torqued everything and headed out to an open secluded road and let it rip - close to three digits. This little car handles GREAT. Super stable, no vibration, and no problems fender buzz. I know the factory didn't produce it this way, but I sure like it better. It's not as cushy though.

If I can get my little car to clear 205's with my current chassis/ wheel set-up I will be thrilled!

Unfortunately, I don't think it will happen with +42. I think +45 (7" width) is the magic number.

 

With zero camber, probably not. On circuit I run 225/45R16 up front and with -2.2 camber, have zero rubbing issues and this is using 7" width +42 offset wheels. Daily, depends which of my wheels I decide to use, but either 6.5"+45 with 205/50R16, 7"+42 with 225/45R16, another 7"+42 with 215/45R16 or winter beater 7"+42(10mm spacer as well) with 195/55R16 all with the same -2.2 camber.

Actually my last event at Suzuka, I had a 10mm spacer on up front (needed for the Tire Rack wheels with Blizzaks (even though 16x7+42 to clear my caliper, fat ass spokes)) that I couldn't get off on one side, so the 225/45s were essentially running at +32 and had zero rubbing and my car sits about 40~45mm lower than stock.

I know this is in the 3rd gen, but the 2nd and 3rd gen Fits all use if I'm not mistaken the same 16x6"+53 size in stock form.

 

Interesting stuff. That's quite a bit of camber. Two bolts I take it. Does the camber alone make the tires buzz, or is it from the toe? I'm thinking once I correct the toe with the camber added it will feel smoother and quiter w/o all the weird straightline stuff.

Yeah, same specs for wheels. Probably same fender clearance as well?

 

No bolts, my suspension allows camber adjustment up to -4.5 because of the elongated bolt hole. I run a minimal amount of toe out as well for a sharper turn-in.

 

Ahh, cool. Did you slot them or are they coil overs that are made that way?

You must run a pretty hot class because many of the mods you listed bump you out of stock or even stf

 

I'm not stateside and in Japan it is run what you brung out on circuit. There are classes based on engine size mostly, but lapping days there are not really any classifications. So I can be out on circuit with Exiges/Elises (damn they eat me up on the straights, not as much in the corners), GT-Rs (same same only because of the driver mod) and whatever else.

The suspension was made this way.

 

Well...I bought a set of 15x6.5" +45 Rota Circuit 10's. Figured I'd play it safe since the cars my year round driver, and I can't stand rubbing.

 

Cool, post up pics when you get them mounted.

 

I just bought a set of 17x7.5+35, hopefully they will fit ok without too much of rolling

 

well, that depends on the tires. lets say you are installing 205/45x17's which are a quarter inch bigger diameter and 20 mm wider, 10 mm wider outside at the tread corner and mounted on wheels that are virtually 19 mm pushed out. let's see, thats close to 1/2" for tires and 3/4 " for wheels location the outer corner of the tread 1 and a quarter inches outward. That's one heck of a lot of fender rolling. you might get by with 105/35x17 tires - if you can find them. and then there's the upset to the suspension working.
if its not too late recomsider the purchase,
for verification, see what tire rack says about your tire/heel combination.
good luck.

 

That sounds potentially painful.

 

No one had them in stock, I got lucky and found a set 40 miles from me reaaaaaally cheap with some like new 205/50/15 Dunlop Direzza Z1 tires already mounted and balanced.

No rubbing, but I'm also not lowered. +45 offset.