DIY: Adjusting the Valve Lash (clearance)
#161
10-07-2014, 09:18 PM
Finally got it fixed.
I replaced the 4 ignition coils and the problem is fixed. 
I got the replacement coils on Amazon.
Amazon.com: IC091 30520PWC003 UF581 07-08 Honda Fit L4 1.5L Set Of 4 Ignition Coil 07 08: Automotive
All 4 cost $69 with shipping and they have a lifetime warranty
Thanks for everyone's help.
Bill
I got the replacement coils on Amazon.
Amazon.com: IC091 30520PWC003 UF581 07-08 Honda Fit L4 1.5L Set Of 4 Ignition Coil 07 08: Automotive
All 4 cost $69 with shipping and they have a lifetime warranty
Thanks for everyone's help.
Bill
Last edited by bill721; 10-15-2014 at 10:36 AM.
#162
01-05-2015, 01:24 PM
Just finished up adjusting the valves on my car. It definately runs smoother. It took approx 2hrs to complete and I didn't take the entire intake off, just the top portion and unbolted the throttle body from plenum without removing any unneccessary hoses/clips/wires. All but two of them were a bit too tight. I didn't pull out the gauges to see what they were but the proper gauges would not slide in. To rotate the cam I popped out the plastic cap on the end of the head and used a 14mm socket. I replaced the o-ring on the cap and reseated it when done.
Tools used?
Pliars for line clips.
Standard screwdriver for getting the furtherst right clip undone on intake and the valves.
10mm socket for intake box, valve cover and wiring for injectors bolts. Used 1/4" socket for these.
12mm socket for throttle body bolts.
14mm socket for intake plenum.
1/4 and 3/8 socket wrench and a couple extensions.
10mm box wrench for valves. Drop down type would be my suggestion but std one will work.
.006 and .010 feeler gauges.
Inch lbs torque wrench or a small ft lbs one?
metal 6" ruler. I used this as a gauge to lay across the head to verify cam indexing.
Torque specs:
Valve cover. Tighten in 3 steps with final being 8.8ft lbs
7-1-3-5
4-2-6
As you are standing in front of car looking at engine.
Bolts where upper and lower parts of intake(hovers over valve cover) 17ft lbs.
Throttle body 16 ft lbs.
Those are the only ones listed in my guide where I had to follow so the rest are at your discretion I suppose?
Seriously amazed how quiet it runs now. No idea why I waited so long to do this... 2008 77k.
Tools used?
Pliars for line clips.
Standard screwdriver for getting the furtherst right clip undone on intake and the valves.
10mm socket for intake box, valve cover and wiring for injectors bolts. Used 1/4" socket for these.
12mm socket for throttle body bolts.
14mm socket for intake plenum.
1/4 and 3/8 socket wrench and a couple extensions.
10mm box wrench for valves. Drop down type would be my suggestion but std one will work.
.006 and .010 feeler gauges.
Inch lbs torque wrench or a small ft lbs one?
metal 6" ruler. I used this as a gauge to lay across the head to verify cam indexing.
Torque specs:
Valve cover. Tighten in 3 steps with final being 8.8ft lbs
7-1-3-5
4-2-6
As you are standing in front of car looking at engine.
Bolts where upper and lower parts of intake(hovers over valve cover) 17ft lbs.
Throttle body 16 ft lbs.
Those are the only ones listed in my guide where I had to follow so the rest are at your discretion I suppose?
Seriously amazed how quiet it runs now. No idea why I waited so long to do this... 2008 77k.
Along with the first post, I found Dean's post above the most helpful. Removing some of those hoses can be a real pain and Dean's method works around most of the hose removal by keeping the throttle body connect. I just removed the battery, airbox, and the upper intake manifold.
During the valve adjustment I replaced the valve cover gaskets along with the rubber grommets on all the bolts. My grommets were starting to crack, so it was probably a good idea to replace these sooner than later. Removing the old grommets can be a pain. I found it easier to just cut the old ones off (after separating them from the metal washer part). To pop on the new grommets, I used the end of an adjustable wrench.
Thanks to everyone on this thread/board for providing this valuable info. My 08 Fit is running like new again..no stalls and feels peppier. I found the intake clearances to be spot on, but the exhaust clearances all < .005" (the thinnest gauge I had wouldn't fit any).
Also, remember to wear some decent gloves when disassembling (I've got several cuts on my hands) and some clean/latex gloves when adjusting (keeps minor debris out).
#163
01-05-2015, 03:14 PM
Glad you got the valve adjustment completed. If you still have an issue the ignition coils fixed mine. Only downside is one of the new coils I got failed, however, they were warranty for life so they mailed me a new one.
Looks like they are charging $20 more for the four coils now (See Link to Amazon I posted earlier) so I'm glad I got them when I did....
Bill
Looks like they are charging $20 more for the four coils now (See Link to Amazon I posted earlier) so I'm glad I got them when I did....
Bill
#164
01-05-2015, 05:59 PM
thanks bill721,
I'm definitely keeping my eye on the idling, but so far so good.
I actually replaced the spark plugs a couple of weeks ago, as it was the easier of all the possibilities (plugs, coils, valve adj.).
The coils you posted did go up in price, but I found these that appear equivalent for $48 w/ good reviews:
Got the gasket kit for $20 (FelPro), Bent Tip Feeler gauges for $5, and a set of Iridium plugs for $38. I called various shops in my area and they quoted me $110 for diagnosing the problem and $350 for the valve adj. I'm guessing spark plugs would've run me another $100+.
That's a lot of beer money
I'm definitely keeping my eye on the idling, but so far so good.
I actually replaced the spark plugs a couple of weeks ago, as it was the easier of all the possibilities (plugs, coils, valve adj.).
The coils you posted did go up in price, but I found these that appear equivalent for $48 w/ good reviews:
Got the gasket kit for $20 (FelPro), Bent Tip Feeler gauges for $5, and a set of Iridium plugs for $38. I called various shops in my area and they quoted me $110 for diagnosing the problem and $350 for the valve adj. I'm guessing spark plugs would've run me another $100+.
That's a lot of beer money
#167
02-17-2015, 11:44 AM
thanks for the right up. I did it last weekend. my fit has 110k on it and I have never adjusted them. the intake were a little out of spec but the exhaust were way out of spec. engines idles smoother definitely.
#168
07-03-2015, 02:55 PM
I did my second valve adjustment on the '07 today.
First time was at @ 62K miles, now @ 112K miles.
The intake valves were all within a thou' of spec. The exhaust valves had all tightened up again, they all needed to be from .001 to .004 looser.
I also replaced the sparkplugs and checked the OEM coils. No sign of carbon tracking on the coils, the gaskets on them (at the plug and the two at the top) were perfect...no dirt or moisture got past them so far.
Two plugs had over .060" gap, the other two were close to the new plugs' gap of .050".
Finally, replaced the engine air filter, cleaned the throttle body, and performed the ILP.
First time was at @ 62K miles, now @ 112K miles.
The intake valves were all within a thou' of spec. The exhaust valves had all tightened up again, they all needed to be from .001 to .004 looser.
I also replaced the sparkplugs and checked the OEM coils. No sign of carbon tracking on the coils, the gaskets on them (at the plug and the two at the top) were perfect...no dirt or moisture got past them so far.
Two plugs had over .060" gap, the other two were close to the new plugs' gap of .050".
Finally, replaced the engine air filter, cleaned the throttle body, and performed the ILP.
#170
08-01-2015, 04:43 PM
Based on the great tips in this thread, I did my valves today. First time for my 08 Base with 102K miles on it. My notes:
1. I left the throttle body connected to the intake manifold. Once I got all the electrical connectors off and the one hose on the side of the valve cover, the whole assembly just moved out of the way.
2. I didn't pull the battery. It took a little doing to get the air box off the throttle body so I'd have enough slack to move it out of the way. Much easier going back on.
3. I did undo the bracket on the rear passenger side of the engine - the one that holds the wiring harness for the coil packs. Made it much easier to navigate the valve cover back into position.
No extra parts, no torn gaskets or washers. The intakes were loose, the exhausts were tight.
I didn't notice any gain or loss in performance. The engine is quieter at idle but gets a little noisy at speed.
UPDATE - after driving it a bit this AM, the engine is running better. The minor idle surge is gone, the valves have quieted down, and the engine seems a little bit more responsive. The valves do get noisy above 3K rpm when VTEC kicks in so I will keep an eye on that.
One thing I will do next time around - cleaning the wires above the cover and cleaning the cover itself before opening the cover. There's a lot of dirt hanging around those parts that will drop into the rocker arm area when the cover is off if we don't clean it before hand.
1. I left the throttle body connected to the intake manifold. Once I got all the electrical connectors off and the one hose on the side of the valve cover, the whole assembly just moved out of the way.
2. I didn't pull the battery. It took a little doing to get the air box off the throttle body so I'd have enough slack to move it out of the way. Much easier going back on.
3. I did undo the bracket on the rear passenger side of the engine - the one that holds the wiring harness for the coil packs. Made it much easier to navigate the valve cover back into position.
No extra parts, no torn gaskets or washers. The intakes were loose, the exhausts were tight.
I didn't notice any gain or loss in performance. The engine is quieter at idle but gets a little noisy at speed.
UPDATE - after driving it a bit this AM, the engine is running better. The minor idle surge is gone, the valves have quieted down, and the engine seems a little bit more responsive. The valves do get noisy above 3K rpm when VTEC kicks in so I will keep an eye on that.
One thing I will do next time around - cleaning the wires above the cover and cleaning the cover itself before opening the cover. There's a lot of dirt hanging around those parts that will drop into the rocker arm area when the cover is off if we don't clean it before hand.
Last edited by Rob22315; 08-02-2015 at 08:49 AM.
#172
02-11-2016, 12:51 PM
I always adjust when engine is cold(after it sits all night). Warm just adds more variables you cannot account for accurately.
#174
02-12-2016, 07:33 AM
I asked this question as I have a few big block Chevy muscle cars and the mechanical camshaft manufactures want you to adjust the valves when the engine is hot. On an average the BBC valves are .012" intake and .014" exhaust when hot.
Thank you for your replies. We are a two "Fit" family. One '07 with 203k miles and an '08 with 164k miles.
Thank you for your replies. We are a two "Fit" family. One '07 with 203k miles and an '08 with 164k miles.
#176
02-13-2016, 01:32 AM
I've worked on a lot of race engines, the only ones that get hot adjustment are the ones pro teams run, that get externally heated before running. At least that's my experience around road racing.
Rocker arm engines used to get done hot to properly load the hydraulic lifters. The new lifters have stiffer internal springs and wider tolerances..
Rocker arm engines used to get done hot to properly load the hydraulic lifters. The new lifters have stiffer internal springs and wider tolerances..
#177
03-04-2016, 09:57 AM
On a stock FIT that isn't used for racing to get every last drop of performance not much.
Just not steaming hot. Think about it for a minute how many people are driving around with 100,000 miles and have never done it with their clearences really messed up and some do not have problems even with virtually no clearance on the exhaust side.
What would happen it you did it with with a hotter engine is the parts are all expanded from the heat so if you set them at the stock correct clearance when the engine cooled down the clearance would increase which on the Fit is not a bad thing other than possibly more valve click when cold.
You can compensate infact most of the older engine repair manuals give both settings one set for hot and one set for cold.
All the different settings are just set with less clearance when hot. With a Fit I would be comfortable just using the tighter end of the stock settings and you will be fine except for on the exhaust as that tightens over time anyway that I would set to the middle of the stock range.
Just not steaming hot. Think about it for a minute how many people are driving around with 100,000 miles and have never done it with their clearences really messed up and some do not have problems even with virtually no clearance on the exhaust side.
What would happen it you did it with with a hotter engine is the parts are all expanded from the heat so if you set them at the stock correct clearance when the engine cooled down the clearance would increase which on the Fit is not a bad thing other than possibly more valve click when cold.
You can compensate infact most of the older engine repair manuals give both settings one set for hot and one set for cold.
All the different settings are just set with less clearance when hot. With a Fit I would be comfortable just using the tighter end of the stock settings and you will be fine except for on the exhaust as that tightens over time anyway that I would set to the middle of the stock range.
08 Honda Fit, std shift. Daily driver and 144k miles. Never done the valve adjustments. Now having the cold engine stalling and misfire codes. Going to tackle the valve adjustments this weekend. This thread has helped a lot.
Already replaced a both O2 sensors and coil packs and cranck sensor.
Shawn
#178
03-12-2016, 03:56 PM
Last time I did a valve adjustment was sometime in the mid 1970s! But my sons 08 base Fit with 150K has the rough idle, worse when cold, and he got the "misfire" codes last week. I did the 4 coils and plugs (Hitachi and NGK iridium) and the thing runs GREAT at speed (no more codes). So I'm getting ready for the valve check and adjust. Between my kid's job, school, and girlfriend this car never gets a day off, so I want to have everything I MAY need when I start. I will buy the 3 gaskets, throttle body to intake, intake upper to lower, and the valve cover w/ grommets, just in case. My question is "which BRAND". I see the same parts from $10 to $25. I don't mind spending a couple of bucks more if the quality is better but...... Anyone used FEL-PRO or Beck/Arnley, or any other brand? Probably made in the same factory and put in a different package, I know, but I thought I would ask.
Also, anything else I should have on hand (besides a cold one), I'm on the edge of civilization here in FL so slim to no chance of getting any parts on Sunday. I have read ALL your posts and say THANK YOU to everyone on this site for some really great info.
Also, anything else I should have on hand (besides a cold one), I'm on the edge of civilization here in FL so slim to no chance of getting any parts on Sunday. I have read ALL your posts and say THANK YOU to everyone on this site for some really great info.
#180
03-12-2016, 05:03 PM
I've done valve adjustments TWICE each, on our Fit and CR-0V, and just re-used the old gaskets. No leaks. None.
Honda gaskets are the BEST, IMO. (Doesn't hurt that Honda machines the mating surfaces, either.)
PS, be sure to have some HondaBond or other quality sealer for the spots on the valve cover where it climbs over the camshaft. (You will see the old stuff when you remove the valve cover)
Honda gaskets are the BEST, IMO. (Doesn't hurt that Honda machines the mating surfaces, either.)
PS, be sure to have some HondaBond or other quality sealer for the spots on the valve cover where it climbs over the camshaft. (You will see the old stuff when you remove the valve cover)