Looks like I may have lucked out: https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...djustment.html

Same as the GD according Krimson...

 

Well, I just finished up. 45 minutes for disassembly, an hour to do the adjustments, and 20 minutes reassembly time.

Exhaust: Intake:
1(1): 0.007 1(1): <0.005
1(2): 0.005 1(2): 0.006
2(1): 0.008 2(1): 0.007
2(2): 0.009 2(2): 0.008
3(1): 0.010 3(1): 0.007
3(2): 0.010 3(2): 0.007
4(1): 0.009 4(1): 0.006
4(2): 0.008 4(2): 0.007

So the intake clearances were almost spot on. I'm not sure what the deal was with 1(1) but I couldn't even get my 0.005 feeler in the damn thing! Exhausts were tight, which seems to be commonplace with others' results. But I had a huge variance from cylinder-to-cylinder. Regardless, its running great now and seems quieter. I will probably start checking them every year (unless they are noisy, of course).

 

I got more of an awareness of this when I did my valves the second time. As I said above, there is play in the rocker arm movement, even on a properly adjusted valve.

 

This is correct, Edison. A certain amount of play in the valve movement is normal. As you know, valves are adjusted within a range. Some people like to adjust the valves toward the loose end of that range because valves tend to tighten over time, especially before the first adjustment. It is also true that "noisy" valves maybe be noisy good or noisy bad, but quiet valves almost always mean that the valves are too tight. So, one needs a little practice at knowing what to listen for.

 

OT: I am considering upgrading from a '08 GD 3 to a '12 GE 8. Can somebody direct me to a thread that discusses problems with the GE 8. I know about the '09-'10 Lost Motion Spring. Is there anything else? I am mostly concerned with power train problems.

Thanks.

 

Are you considering the upgrade because of the noise?

 

Yup.



I can't tell you how disappointed I am. The last thing I expected when I bought a Honda as a daily driver was that the engine would not go an easy 100,000 miles.

 

What kind of problems have you had?

 

I completely understand where you're coming from. I feel the same way. I did consider trading the car in but It's payed for and I figure if the engine goes I'll find a used one and have it installed. Besides I'm at 110K now and it still performs flawlessly aside from the god awful noise. Also, there are other cars that have noisy engines without an affect on longevity.

 

Undiagnosable engine noise and now power train vibration.

 

Is this the valve adjustment they talk about in my 2007 manual? If so, what would it cost me if I had the dealer do it?

thanks,

 

It should be in your manual.

I don't know how much it costs. I don't do my own valve adjustments because I want to save money. I do them because I don't trust anyone to touch my car.

Good luck with your situation.

 

Just a quick message to say thanks for the great info in this thread. My '08 Fit, 150K miles, had been stalling when cold. First just once, at the stop sign exiting the neighborhood. Then a second stall emerged, as it got colder, and recently any stop for the first 3 miles or so. The top-end flattened, and the "zippiness" was mostly gone.

Took me about 2.5 hours to do it all, including new gaskets. I had all the tools, but had to hunt for the right sockets and extensions. Really, except for removing the intake I'd say it was one of the easiest I've done (why doesn't everybody scribe cylinder indexing on the timing gear?). It's probably been 15 years since I did engine work, but nothing hard to pick back up.

All the intakes were a little loose (maybe .10), while all the exhausts were WAY tight. I didn't check them all, but a couple were 4, and one was less than that. I've never had an engine get tighter that I can recall, but my sample set is admittedly small.

It's warm today, so I can't conclusively say it'll work perfectly when cold, but for the first time in months I had no stalling. Idle held steady, except for one little drop and recovery. No clatter to speak of...a little less so than before, really. Still doesn't seem quite as zippy as it once did, but it revs willingly again, and it runs more smoothly at idle too. The exhaust note isn't as anemic either. All I can say is, I wish I'd done this at 100K, or maybe even 60K and 120K. I worry that I've got burned exhaust valves now.

My take: this is a "must do" procedure for the Fit. It's easy enough that anyone past a novice can tackle it alone, and somebody reasonably handy could readily do this as their first engine repair task. Just have good lighting, plenty of time, and be careful and you'll do fine.

 

Just finished up adjusting the valves on my car. It definitely runs smoother. I want to thank all of you in this thread for having ventured down the road first and providing all the helpful tips like the bent tip feeler guages, the go or no go for setting the gap, the popping the clicks on the plastic to turn the crank, and the mirror to help line up the marks on the gear. They made the job much easier. I won't drag my feet in the future when it comes to adjusting them. I have to wait til Tuesday for the next cold spell to see if it solved the problem of stalling when it is cold out.

Thanks again and tip of glass to you,
Steve

 

The 07 (bought in '06) has 62k-km (38kmiles) on it, but mostly city driving as you can see by the low mileage.

It was getting noisy and I was replacing the coil packs due to the infamous (in my case intermittent) misfire issue anyway.

I set the intakes to 0.006, exhausts to 0.0012 since they get looser and tighter respectively as it wears.

Here are pre-adjustment clearances which shows the typical wear of loose intake and tight exhaust. The intake were not bad, but the exhaust were very tight.

Cyl1 Intake L 0.007, R 0.008
Cyl2 Intake L 0.010, R 0.010
Cyl3 Intake L 0.008, R 0.010
Cyl4 Intake L 0.006, R 0.007

Cyl1 Exhaust L 0.008, R 0.006
Cyl2 Exhaust L 0.007, R 0.006
Cyl3 Exhaust L 0.005, R 0.006
Cyl4 Exhaust L 0.009, R 0.009

It took me about 4.5h. Actually 5.5h since one of the new coil packs was DOA which took me some time to find.
Purrs nice like new after all done!

 

Thanks guys for this DIY. Was having problems with stalling on cold starts and sure enough, I found lots of other people having the same issue.

To fix my valves I used the advice in this thread and also this guide posted on another forum: DIY adjusting valve clearences GD - Honda Fit Forums

I'm at 75k miles and the intake valves were 0.006" to 0.008". Exhaust valves were all tight, some 0.005". Basically all exhaust valves were out of spec. I set intakes to the tight side of 0.005" (set to the feeler and tightened the screw 1/8 turn) and all exhaust valves to 0.012" (loosened 1/8 turn). Since I had everything taken apart anyway, I changed out the plugs with Autolite iridiums gapped to 0.044".

My cold starting problem is now gone.... Amazing since I called Honda to ask what was wrong and they told me "bad winter gas". No sh*t.

 

Haha that's what they tell everyone

 

Sounds like a good reason not to go to the dealer.

 

Just finished up adjusting the valves on my car. It definately runs smoother. It took approx 2hrs to complete and I didn't take the entire intake off, just the top portion and unbolted the throttle body from plenum without removing any unneccessary hoses/clips/wires. All but two of them were a bit too tight. I didn't pull out the gauges to see what they were but the proper gauges would not slide in. To rotate the cam I popped out the plastic cap on the end of the head and used a 14mm socket. I replaced the o-ring on the cap and reseated it when done.

Tools used?
Pliars for line clips.
Standard screwdriver for getting the furtherst right clip undone on intake and the valves.
10mm socket for intake box, valve cover and wiring for injectors bolts. Used 1/4" socket for these.
12mm socket for throttle body bolts.
14mm socket for intake plenum.
1/4 and 3/8 socket wrench and a couple extensions.
10mm box wrench for valves. Drop down type would be my suggestion but std one will work.
.006 and .010 feeler gauges.
Inch lbs torque wrench or a small ft lbs one?
metal 6" ruler. I used this as a gauge to lay across the head to verify cam indexing.

Torque specs:
Valve cover. Tighten in 3 steps with final being 8.8ft lbs
7-1-3-5
4-2-6
As you are standing in front of car looking at engine.

Bolts where upper and lower parts of intake(hovers over valve cover) 17ft lbs.
Throttle body 16 ft lbs.

Those are the only ones listed in my guide where I had to follow so the rest are at your discretion I suppose?

Seriously amazed how quiet it runs now. No idea why I waited so long to do this... 2008 77k.

 

Glad your adjustment came out OK, but the reason the official procedure says to use the CRANK PULLEY BOLT (the 19mm at the bottom) to turn the engine/camshaft is that this maintains the timing relationship between the crank and cams. Turning a different pulley could result in jumping the timing (especially if you inadvertently turn it backwards a little).